Author Topic: Blade clarification please  (Read 6160 times)

Offline Jim-78028

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Blade clarification please
« on: January 21, 2016, 08:03:07 am »
I have a question regarding blades, I'd really like to hear from those who have used the different one's I am describing and their opinions concerning which is better or better for this kind of scrolling or whatever you think needs mentioning to help a newbie.

Flying Dutchman
Scroll reverse - two up teeth at the bottom
Double reverse - two sets of up teeth at the bottom
Ultra reverse - two down teeth one up tooth, repeating
2-way cut - appears to be the same as Ultra reverse to me, yet it is cheaper but tpi does change some

Thanks
Jim

Offline Brian Pardue

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2016, 03:49:49 pm »
Sorry can't help with this one. I use Olson blades only

Offline Bill Wilson

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2016, 04:01:49 pm »
You will get several answers and some may even suggest you look at some other alternatives.  There are also lots of variables, such as the pattern and the material being cut.  I haven't used all of those types in the FD brand, but my general impression is that you won't notice a whole lot of difference between the scroll reverse and the double reverse.  I think the Ultra reverse are probably the best all around blade of the ones you listed.  The 2-way cut blades leave the cleanest edge, with the least tear out, but will probably cut slower.  I know with Olson's version of the 2 way cut, one of the advantages is that you can turn the blade upside down and get more life out of it.  The tooth configuration looks to be a little different on the FD 2-way blades, so not sure if that would work with them or not.

Anyway, getting advice is great, but IMHO, the bottom line on blades is, you won't know what works best for you until you've tried several different types.  Fortunately, scroll saw blades are relatively cheap, so this shouldn't be a burden, but it really is the best way to determine what you like best.

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!
Nobody ever worked so hard that milk squirted out of their nose.

Offline Toneman

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2016, 06:18:26 pm »
Yep, you will get a variety of opinions on this subject. I can only tell you what best works for me. I have tried most of the blades listed, but, I have settled on the FD-UR for my best all around blade. I primarily use #1, #3, and #5 sizes. You may want to give them all a try before deciding which works best for you. I have tried other blades, but, my wife does all my sanding and staining and she says the UR cuts her sanding time so need to keep her happy!!LOL

Tony,aka,Toneman

Offline tbolt

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2016, 06:28:00 pm »
Learned to cut using fd ur 5 liked it so never tried any other brand it's kinda what you get used to and what you cut the most of

Offline sawdust703

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2016, 11:20:06 pm »
Mr. Jim, to truthfully answer your question is near impossible here because you didn't give us the type & thickness of your material you're using, & what type of work you are planning to do with given blades. Speaking for myself, I use FD & Olson blades, & keep about 20 different types & sizes of blades on hand from skip tooth to scroll reverse, & #0 - #7. I do quite a bit highly intricate projects, & my personal preference is a #2 skip tooth, or a #3 polar blade. For extremely fine work, I use a #1 skip tooth. For certain things in projects, I also use spiral blades. Sometimes it may be a #1, other times it may be a #3. I don't spend much time finish sanding, the saw does the work. An important point to keep in mind when looking at different projects, is to keep your blade inventory in mind. Every project may take 2, 3, sometimes 4 different types of blades, & at least a couple different sizes. Also take into consideration your material. The thinner the material, the smaller the blade, & the slower the speed. The thicker the material, the bigger the blade, more blade speed, & more blade tension. There are several variables that enter into the decision of blade choice. The only true way is purchase a dozen of a few you'd like to try, & practice. Good luck!
Sawdust703(Brad)

tundraguy

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2016, 12:01:00 am »
Jim, go to mike web site and click on scroll saw blades like your going to order some. There you'll find pic of each kind of blades. I just ordered 4 different dozen from them...😀😀😀

Offline Jim-78028

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2016, 05:35:06 am »
Thanks guys.  I had a feeling my question was going be like asking what oil is best in a motor head forum.  But I got a lot of good advice so thanks.

@ Toneman, I am going to read your post to my wife and have her get with the program.  LOL

Offline Jim-78028

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2016, 05:41:46 am »
Let me try this again, I can see that I did not phrase things right for what I was curious about.

All four of the mentioned blades are supposed to work to prevent chipping on the bottom of the work piece.  So what I was asking was if anyone had tried two or more of those blades and did one work better than the other to prevent chipping - assuming the same density wood, and the same thickness

Offline Wooden Lace

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2016, 07:03:25 am »
I've tried all the blades you listed, except the two way cut, and my favorite was the Ultra Reverse.  That being said, I liked it because of the sharpness and ease of following the line, but just can't get past the fuzzies on the reverse side.  I thought those blades were supposed to keep that from happening.

If you haven't tried Olson Mach blades, I'd sure give them a try.  Pretty much all I use, 'cause I hate having to sand.  I've never found another blade that leaves the back so clean.  Just my 2 cents worth.
Nancy
Nancy from Washington state
I'd give up chocolate, but I'm no quitter!

Offline julief

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2016, 07:05:31 am »
My go to blade is the ultra reverse.  I also use Olson's platinum reverse.  When one isn't working for me, I use the other.  The only one of the ones you listed I don't particularly care for is the 2-way.  Olson's version is a crown tooth.  I just haven't gotten great results with it.  That being said,  you will find your personal favorite.  When and if you get into spiral blades, Flying Dutchman is the only way to go. 

Offline Jim-78028

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2016, 05:41:56 am »
Julie - I tried a spiral after watching a utube where the scroller was using one, he made it look so easy.  I'll wait until I get better control, I like the concept though.

Offline julief

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2016, 08:28:37 am »
The easiest way I have found to teach a spiral is to write your name in scraps.  Your signature is the most common movement you use.  Cut it over and over again.  You will find it takes very little time to get used to moving your wood.  Remember it cuts on all sides so turning your piece is not necessary.  You can write on the wood and try to follow the line or just go for it.  Don't worry about drop outs.  You are just trying to get the feel of the spiral blade.  When I have not used one in a while, I still do this to get the feel for the blade before I start on my piece.  They are a necessary tool in my tool box because I often cut things that are to big to turn on my saw.  I probably would not do portraits if I didn't know how to use one.

Offline Hawkdave

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #13 on: January 25, 2016, 01:31:57 am »
I have a question regarding blades, I'd really like to hear from those who have used the different one's I am describing and their opinions concerning which is better or better for this kind of scrolling or whatever you think needs mentioning to help a newbie.

Flying Dutchman
Scroll reverse - two up teeth at the bottom
Double reverse - two sets of up teeth at the bottom
Ultra reverse - two down teeth one up tooth, repeating
2-way cut - appears to be the same as Ultra reverse to me, yet it is cheaper but tpi does change some

Thanks
Jim


Hi Jim....Thanks for bringing this subject up. I have picked up a lot from the replies. I was also wondering about blades and your query got some great replies.

Dave.
My parents must have been psychic, as a child they were always telling me to 'Cut It Out'. So they knew a long time ago that I would become a scroll saw artist.

Offline Toneman

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Re: Blade clarification please
« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2016, 09:44:49 pm »
Yep Jim, I built my wife her own workbench in my shop. She turns up her radio and just has a blast! I put the sander and router table at her end of the shop, along with the various stains and let her do her thing!LOL I already figured out that the ladies; not men, buy more at craft and art shows, so, let her decide what would be more likely to sell! LOL I just stay at my end and run the saws! Of course, I am still the boss! ???

Tony,aka,Toneman
« Last Edit: January 25, 2016, 09:46:21 pm by Toneman »

 

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