Did my first stack cut yesterday

[TomC]

I've seen  you all mention cutting multiple pieces by stacking several boards and cutting once.  I always figured that would be great for folks doing production work, but would never come in handy for someone like me who only makes things in small quantities for family and friends.  Well, in making some of Sheila's great sled ornamets, i found that i would need to cut the sled runners many times to get enough, so i decided to try it.  I was using 1/4 Aspen, so put four pieces together and cut the double pattern once to get four sets of runners.

What you guys never told me was that it was easier to cut these pieces this way than one at a time.  I found the larger block of wood easier to manipulate and when cutting only one piece i had trouble with the blade over-cutting (it's the blades fault, not mine!) around tight turns - but with the thicker piece, i didn't have nearly as much trouble.  Result was four sets of runners that all looked much better than the first set I cut individually.

[GrayBeard]

Tom...congratulations!

You just learned the 'portrait cutter's axiom'!

I just finished putting a portrait in the BLO 'dunk' and found that there were a couple flaws where the face veneer had chipped off. I did not notice it in sanding and getting rid of the 'fuzzies'...SO I just grabbed the second one, did the outline cut and now it is in the 'dunk' and will be ready to frame in the morning.

Had I not done the stack (3) I would have had to start all over. (just under 300 cuts)
When cutting virtually anything less than 1/2" thick I do a stack of 3, Just In Case!
And that is especially true when you use Spiral Blades...they are much easier to CONTROL with a thicker workpiece.

Keep It Up!

~~~GB~~~

[dgman]

Way to go Tom! Actually, We have said many times that it is easier to cut thin woods in a stack. I always recommend to never cut thinner than 1/4". Even if you only need a single piece of 1/8", it's easier to cut if you stack with some cheap wood.
It gives you better control of the piece and gives it strength while you cut.

[Russ C]

Great job, usually only takes one time to stack cut then you are hooked. 

[Judy Hunter]

I am cutting 4 layers of 1/4 Baltic Birch with spiral blades.

[TomC]

Hooked is right Russ.  I don't think i'll ever do 1/4" single layer again if i can avoid it. 

Dan, now that you mention it, I DO remember it being said that it was easier, but i guess i'm just a lttle slow, and for me, i had to experience it to realize it wasn't easier, it was EASIER!

Lesson learned.  And thanks again to all you guys.  It's not something I would have come up with on my own.

The scroll saw I have is one that has a plastic insert around the blade so the center can easily be replaced, but the inserts never fully level with the rest of the table and if you are cutting too near an edge of the board, the slight edge around the insert can catch the board and cause it to move in the wrong direction.  I also was more careful in laying out the pattern this time so that the edge never fell into the center area.

[tux_linux]

Tom - by the way - it's easier to cut when you stack

Check the home store for some poly plastic of right thickness - here in Germany it's placed in the home store with the plastic glass.
It's soft and wont interfere much. On the other hand one has to replace it more often - I do so like once a week.
It's better to replace it often than to try keeping it for sentimental reasons. The cut is cleaner.

Also do some just use a thin steady plastic above the original insert. Sheila has a good advice for such: Clickedy

[Rapid Roger]

The scroll saw I have is one that has a plastic insert around the blade so the center can easily be replaced, but the inserts never fully level with the rest of the table and if you are cutting too near an edge of the board, the slight edge around the insert can catch the board and cause it to move in the wrong direction.  I also was more careful in laying out the pattern this time so that the edge never fell into the center area.

Take the blade out of your saw, lift the upper arm as far as it will go, and sand the plastic insert down to be flush with the rest of the table. Start with 120 or 220 grit paper on a block of wood and finish up with 400 or 600 grit. (the smother the better) and apply a coat of wax on the plastic and table top. You could even just knock the edges off of the insert if you are afraid of sanding through the plastic insert. That should help your "hang up".    (pun intended)

Rog

[daliclimbs]

I always thought it was a strange concept that it was easier to cut when stack cutting.. until I tried it, and afterwards I have to agree. I do it often before shows, especially on ornaments. In my case it seems everyone wants two of a certain ornament, so I have learned to have a few of each on hand. And stack cutting is any easy way of accomplishing that...

[TomC]

Roger, my problem is the opposite of what your suggesting.  the inserts I ordered are acutally a bit too low, so there isn't an edge i can sand off.  I've tried shiming under the insersts but haven't found anything that works. Taking Torstens idea and yours together may be just the trick.  Get some plexiglass or other plastic that's just a little too thick and then sand it down once it's in place!

thanks for the idea.

[mrsn]

I make a false table for my saw sometimes. A piece of wood about 1 foot square with a hole in it for the blade. Some 2sided tape sticks it to the table. It solves the unlevel insert problem and acts as a zero clearance insert.

[Mainewoods]

Tom,  I had the same problem with the insert on my Porter Cable saw.  I ended up cutting some inserts from 1/8" BB ply.  I bevelled the edges and sanded them down so they sit level with the surface of the table.  Drilled a small hole for the blade and now have zero clearance inserts for cutting extremely small items.

Just another option you could try.  Good luck!

[TomC]

Looks like I have several options I
 can try and all look like they should solve my problem.  Thanks to all.

[Rapid Roger]

OK, if it is too thin try putting some blue tape on the bottom of the insert. Use as many layers of tape as you need to build up to correct thickness.
I really like the idea of cutting a new, thicker insert out of plywood and sanding it down. Again, wax will help your project wood slide as you are cutting.

Rog

[Keefie]

speaking of wax helping your project slide over the new insert, should I be waxing my saw table anyway?