Author Topic: Delta 40-690 blade alignment (Read 6496 times)

jscott2 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 07, 2011, 09:52:32 am »

Gabby,

The adjustment I made isn't in my manual, the idea came from the Delta service engineer. The saw has a 5 year warranty so I didn't want to start elongating holes, as some have done to solve the same problem on their DW788.

BTW, in an earlier post I wanted the blade vertical when I should have said perpendicular to the table.

Russ, this might bring the thread back from the "foul words" but perhaps not. That's one of the things I like about this forum, people are relaxed enough that drifting off topic is OK.

Jim

marmoh · « **Reply #16 on:** August 07, 2011, 12:10:08 pm »

Sorry about that. If I post again, I will keep it technical and on topic. Marion
( No foul words expressed or implied. )

jscott2 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 07, 2011, 02:11:58 pm »

Marion, please believe me, I wasn't complaining in my last post. What happened in this thread is very much what happens when a group of friends get together. Sometimes the conversation departs from the original topic.

When I first found this forum, I noticed that it was a much more relaxed forum than some others and I feel very comfortable here.

Again, I was not upset about the later posts, I actually enjoyed the comments. Those comments might also be a sign that the "technical" discussion was pretty well complete.

Jim

marmoh · « **Reply #18 on:** August 07, 2011, 03:33:33 pm »

OK, Guess I just got my pants in a wad there for a second

Figured that since you were below 1/16" and Gabby was at 1/32" and his went to the playground to teeter totter and rock, that the serious stuff was over with.
I would never want to offend anyone here by anything I might "say" ... I just have a peculiar sense of humor and feel everyone should laugh every day.
I would still love to find an alternative to my bottom blade mount as it usually makes me lose my cool when I change a blade. ( that's when the foul words come into play .. or the hubby ticks me off )
Glad you chose this site to be apart of ... I belong to 3 other ones but this is the only one I bother people at

Marion

Gabby · « **Reply #19 on:** August 07, 2011, 06:57:25 pm »

I've got to laugh, LOLOLOL
Looks like we're all still friends, that's what makes this forum so special (thanks again Steve).

Jim,
I haven't been feeling too chipper the last couple of days but wasn't going to say anything about it, so I coped out on the adjustment investigation on my machine. I knew what you were talking about vertical shmertical. LOL

I actually think the action of the blade slightly off perpendicular serves a purpose by making the majority of the cutting action on the down stroke. Let us know how it cuts after the adjustments.

Marion,
We all step in it from time to time, it's no big deal, that's what they make boot scrapers for. LOL
YTB you're the best!

Thanks Jim, glad we had this talk and got to know each other a little better. I hate stuffed shirts, and love down home people.
You'd never guess would you?

Gabby

jscott2 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 23, 2011, 10:59:30 pm »

Followup on the blade alignment.

I finally got a chance to test the adjustments to the saw. Took a 3/4" piece of pine and free-handed a circle about 1.5" across and tried my best to not side load the blade.

The "circle" dropped out the bottom as well as it fell into the top so I think the adjustments for blade perpendicularity are as good as they are going to be.

I'm a beginner so I ask you, is this a good test of the blade being perpendicular to the table from the front as well as from the side?

Now I have to learn to make sharp corners and to follow the line.
Jim

dgman · « **Reply #21 on:** August 23, 2011, 11:32:01 pm »

Jim, If your circle falls out on both top and bottom, then all is well as far as I'm concerned.

GrayBeard · « **Reply #22 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:49:15 pm »

IF you can make a circle that drops thru top and bottom then my friend you are one darn good scroller and there ain't nothing wrong with that there saw!

As for driftin' off topic we all git along with it just so's we clean our boots before comin' in fer dinner!

~~~GB~~~

alien11 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2011, 10:11:33 am »

Jim:

I agree with the above two replies, with the following qualification:

The circle falling out is a good metric that the blade is perpendicular to the table side-to-side. However if the blade is not perp. front to back you can still get the circle dropping thru the hole.

Think of it this way: if you are cutting a long straight line, if the blade is misaligned side to side then the curf will be angled with respect to the faces of the board. However, if the blade is misaligned front to back (but perp. side to side), then the curf will still be perp. to the faces. The result in the first case when you cut a circle, you wind up with a tapered cut out, not so in the second case.

Where the second case bites you is when you try to make very sharp turns.

Have fun,

jscott2 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 27, 2011, 01:14:00 pm »

Alien11, of course. I didn't think of it that way but you're right about the blade only being proven vertical from side to side. It is as vertical front to back as I can make it and as I can measure it with my plastic protractor.

Graybeard, I wouldn't call myself an expert by any definition of the word but thanks for the compliment. As I said before, I was in no way upset by the "driftin' off topic".

When it comes to sharp turns, they never turn out to be sharp, they are rounded and don't hit the line coming away from the corner. That is certainly a lack of practice. I thought cutting patterns might be enough practice but now see the wisdom of making practice patterns of lines with many corners. I also have to re-watch Steve's video on corners.

Practice, practice, practice.
Jim

Gabby · « **Reply #25 on:** August 27, 2011, 05:05:21 pm »

Jim
Dan suggested a good way to make the square corners. When you get to the corner, back your blade up a little, then using the corner of the blade widen the kurf until you can turn the wood so that you are tracking down the line again. I usually do this 2 or 3 times depending on the size of the blade. The result is a nice square corner.
If I'm not happy with the line I can turn the wood around and go back the opposite direction and square it up with light cuts until I'm satisfied. I do this by going back to the place where I widened the kurf and can spin the wood without binding the blade then back the blade up to where I stopped and then cut back to the corner. See attached drawing.
Hope this helps.
Gabby

jscott2 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 27, 2011, 06:06:37 pm »

Gabby,

Great idea, I will try it today. I still want to be able to spin the workpiece like Steve does so I have to practice, practice, practice.

Jim
(Now I'm going off topic!!

)
J

Gabby · « **Reply #27 on:** August 28, 2011, 12:45:53 am »

Quote from: jscott2 on August 27, 2011, 06:06:37 pm

Gabby,

Great idea, I will try it today. I still want to be able to spin the workpiece like Steve does so I have to practice, practice, practice.

Jim
(Now I'm going off topic!! )
J

Not a problem, that's half the fun!
Gabby

News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.