Hi Clive,
The wood will dry more efficiently once the logs are sawn into boards. The sawyers around here recommend rough sawing the lumber about 1 1/8" thick in order to be able to get boards that finish out at least 3/4" thick when jointed & planed.
If you are looking at a large qty of wood, it may be worthwhile to invest in a moisture meter, especially if you want to use the wood as soon as possible. The rule of thumb of air drying 1" per year is pretty general and depends a lot on the particular species and the drying conditions. You will want to keep your stack as flat as possible. Any unevenness in the stack will transfer to the lumber as it dries. In general, air dried wood will get down to around 12-15% moisture content. Conventional wisdom is to allow the wood to acclimate a couple weeks in the shop before final milling. With a MC that high, wood can still tend to warp, twist or cup, even after air drying for a few years. Kiln drying will generally achieve a MC of around 6-8%. Furniture makers prefer a MC of 10% or less, but I use a lot of air dried wood and if dried and prepared carefully, it will work just fine.
Keep the stickers evenly spaced (no more than roughly 2' apart) and in line with each other through all the layers of the stack. Weigh the top layer down to prevent warping & twisting. If the stack is exposed to the weather, cover the top only, leaving the ends and edges open to encourage air movement. If stacked indoors, you may need to place fans and/or a dehumidifier in the area to help disperse the moisture. It's important that the stack get plenty of air circulation to promote even drying and prevent mold. Build the stack well up off the ground to prevent insect infestation.
Air drying your own lumber can be a satisfying experience, if done properly. Good luck!
