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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Al W on March 08, 2012, 10:22:07 am
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I was working on a sign last night and ran into a very frustrating and aggravating problem. I am using 2/0 spiral blades and have the holes drilled with a #63. Works fine when the blade is new, however, after sometimes as few as two cuts I find it very difficult to pass the blade through the 1/2 inch thick wood and continue to work.
Seems I am doing something to made the bottom of the blade bend into what appears to be similar to a hockey stick, or an abbreviated "L" shape. Sometimes the blade will still pass through with some coaxing, other times I am forced to change to a new blade, and the blade is new as far as cutting goes.
Suggestions / recommendations ?
Al
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Good Morning Al.... Bout all I can suggest is a slightly larger hole. I don't use spiral blades, but have tired and seems to me with the spiral of the cutting area they would be more difficult getting thru a small hole. I sometimes bend a blade, but its because I don't drop the wood straight down. 2cents worth.:+}
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I have the same problem occasionally Al. I've begun to tighten the blades a little less (without that last little "crank") and it's pretty much taken care of it. I also took the little nub out of the lower clamp and lubricated the shaft so it turns when I tighten the clamp instead of twisting the blade. Just a couple of thoughts.
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Folks forgive me cause on this, but at times I drilled a project and didnt de-burr the holes I couldnt run a blade tru the next hole. I now just after a cut I go to the next hole and run a old blade tru it to make sure the one on the saw will pass tru...
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Al, if you're getting the "hockey stick" effect on your blades, it's definitely a sign of over tightening! Got to find that sweet spot of just enough to hold the blade, but not so much as to tweak it!
Good luck!
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I know this problem. have it sometimes with a #1 as well .73 hole.
I use a what we call "flat jaw" pliers and then i correct the curved blade top.
this is not easy because the blade has the intension to flip away.
I will do this with the blade bottom still in the bottom clamp mounted in the saw.
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I have the same problem,...Cause over tightening,...short answer if the blade is still new/sharp Nip/cut the end of the blade and you have a new blade.
Main cure remind yourself not to over tighten...Easrier said than done....
***Merlin***
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also sometimes the positioning set screw on the other side of the tightening screw can be off center. If you adjust it back to center you may have better luck.
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when i have that problem i use a set of tip cleaners from a cuting tourch
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You only need enough pressure to 'grip' the blade!
Don't 'squeeze the life out of it'!
Place your blade, tighten it into the blade holders.
Set your tension.
Run the saw for 15 - 30 seconds under no LOAD.
If everything holds then you are set to go.
We all did/do it and it takes PRACTICE!
~~~GB~~~
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Well, I went back out to the scroll saw, lightened up on the holding screw, and it seems to be doing the trick.
I check to ensure the screws are meeting half way, just tapped one of the screw surfaces with some sand paper, and turned on the easy listening music. So far I have made quite a few cuts and still working with the same blade.
Thanks for the input folks, a little experience, my willingness to listen to sage advice, and a night's sleep made a HUGE difference.
Keep learning and you keep living. Thanks again.
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Right Brother...I started this hobby after I turned 70!
OLD dogs CAN learn a few new tricks!
~~~GB~~~