Scrollsaw Workshop Community -Please register to enable posting.
General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: sgood on April 19, 2010, 12:26:45 am
-
I would like to hear every ones technique for finishing their scroll saw projects. What are your favorite products?
-
Like you, I use Krylon spray. Used to use varathane, but it is quite expensive ($10 a can) and the Krylon is about $4. Spray on thin coats, sand with #0000 steel wool between coats. Makes for a very nice finish after 3 or 4 coats applied.
-
I mostly use clear acrylic spray or water based polyurethane. I have used lemon oil too and I like that alot.
Christina
-
Depends on what I'm working on "and what I have handy" I like to use Shellac on my puzzles and Miniwax fast drying polyurethane on most everything else tho I'll admit I don't sand often enough between coats. Getting better at that tho. Also I use Tung oil from time to time.
-
Well it just depends on what I made.. But ,I usually spray my stuff with Lacquer with a gravity fed cup gun..A gallon of Semi-gloss lacquer is $25 and I can usually get about 75-100 crosses and puzzle projects per gallon. That is pennies per project...
Michael.......Indy..........
www.luckyscustomscrolling.com
-
We (wife and I - mainly "her" for finishing) use Watco Danish Oil (natural). I like to try to show off the nature of the wood in my projects as I scroll with a lot of cherry, walnut, and exotics.
Dan
-
i use lacquer and itdepends upon what im making i do a lot of diff types of fret work
-
here is some of the things i make not sure where to post these
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Most times I just use polyurethane and have just recently started trying a few wood stains also.
-
Steve, Like most here, it depends upon what I am cutting and what it is for. For some products such as food like plates and a cake topper I did, mineral oil..for the ornaments I cut, depending if they are 3-dimensional or flat will depend on whether or not I dip and hang them to dry or lay the flat and spray them. I usually use whatever I can afford and buy more than one. LOL.
-
I use Watco Danish oil and the Deft spray over that...really makes the grain pop.
-
i use minwax stain and some dallor store clear gloss.
-
Steve I usually use a lot of spray poly , for it's faster and drys fast too . And of course it also depends on how large the project is too in what finish I use also ..........Marshall
-
Lemon Oil and then a Gloss spray Poly finish. Sometimes I use a brush-on finish...but that would only be for large woodworking projects.
-
Polyurethane, lacquer, acrylic spray, hand rubbed. Depends on the finish I want for that particular project.
-
Depends on the project. Mostly I use wipe on tung oil or clear spray.
-
here is some of the things i make not sure where to post these
How do you see the .jpg's you posted? I clicked on one, something downloaded but there wasn't and "data" in the picture. In fact the four pictures you have up there all show "oK" for the size?
Confused..........
-
i like to make my own "stains" by diluting artists acrylic paint with water. i can create an color i want and its cheap. i little color without covering the beauty of the wood is nice.
-
Depends on the piece. Generally I'll pour Minwax into a spray bottle and use that most of the time. From time to time I use the lemon oil. Has anyone tried alcohol-based stains? Can't find it around here and would like some feedback on it.
-
I use oil based stains and krylon clear polyurathane It also depends on the type of wood I use and at times I just use minwax products.
-
However I decide to finish a project, whether it is tung oil, blo, shellac or rattle can lacquers. I always let it cure for a couple of days and then I use a product called.
"Liquid Gold" it is like a furniture polish. Boy oh Boy makes em smooth as a babies backside.
-
I use a water-based Polycrylic. I can't hold a paintbrush very well so I started spraying my finish on with an airbrush. I found a very inexpensive one at Harbor Freight tools. I end up with a beautiful finish.
-
I use spray polyurethane all the time.
-
My preferred finish is danish oil, usually 2 coats. If I clear coat something I use Deft spray semi gloss
-
Depends on what I'm making. I try to use natural finishes in toys to reduce toxicity. When I use poly or varnish I finish polishing with pieces of brown paper lunch bag. Does the same job as #0000 steel wool without the dust.
-
I use Danish oil, Tung oil, 50/50 Boiled Linseed oil and spirits, and other 'child safe' organic oils for toys. I also use poly sealer sprays. It all depends on what I am making and the end use. Magic
-
We at the school use Danish Oils (Golden Oak to Dark Walnut) and then we top it of by applying Tung Oil for shine. It is easier for the kids to apply. When we used the spray urethanes they could never get the right amount or they would over spray to reach inside fret areas causing dripping.
-
steve,
I realy enjoyed the tung oil that i used when I made My wifes butterfly. I think it brought out the richness and depth of the Padauk and Oak.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi Steve, mostly I cut fretwork projects as you have seen in the past. I mainly use a crystal clear high gloss spray lacquer on my inventory as that is what sells the best for me at shows. It is also easier to dust off with an air hose than the wife's duster. Shiny just sells better for me. Personal preference though would be a satin finish lacquer. Steve
-
90% of what I do is red oak. I stain it in a bath of MinWax Golden Oak. it is then sprayed with poly (not from a rattle can). For woods like walnut, maple, pecan, etc I may use MinWax Natural or Danish Oil. If I use Natural I will spray it with poly. If I use Danish Oil that is all I do. Like several people have stated, it all depends upon what I am doing.
Norm
-
I've been making what I call name plate puzzles. They are Steve Good's "Scroll Saw Pattern Printer" I make the base area thicker and cut out each letter with a puzzle interlock on the bottom of each letter. Since I've been giving them to my grand kids and other little one's I've been dipping them in Canola Oil. I'm using 3/4" maple and they come out great.
-
I use whatever i have to hand depending on the project of course, i use a lot of softwood, ply and MDF so for the softwood and ply i tend to use Danish Oil, Wood Dye, Wax or Acrylic Varnish again depending on the project, i can get some nice colours mixing a little Wood Dye into the Danish Oil, for MDF i use Acrylic paint and Acrylic Varnish as you really need to hide MDF but it works well for colourful Intasia/Segmentation projects, i also use Glitter for some projects, if i make hardwood Doll House furniture i usually finish them with Acrylic Varnish.
Ian
-
hi all, i use varnish on most everything, but if i have something with alot of fret work, i use spray varnish
-
Pie Guy,
I've been dipping them in Canola Oil. I'm using 3/4" maple and they come out great.
I'd be afraid of it turning rancid after a time. Any problems with that happening?
-
I mainly use a spray lacquer. It is easy too get (I usually go to Walmart) and I like that it dries so quickly. I haven't tried the Krylon spray, that you recommended Steve, as of yet. It is definitly less expensive and I like that. I appreciate you trying products and sharing with us so we know what is worth getting.
Barry
-
I mostly use Krylon spray poly. It's cheap, easy, and shiny! :D
-
Hi Steve
I recently switched to brush on semi-gloss lacquer. I like this product since it normally only requires 2 coats and no sanding or using steel wool in between coats. I always hated sanding with steel wool because there is always a residue of steel dust that is next to impossible to remove.
Keith
-
Hi Steve
I have so far only used NZ native timbers that I like to finsh with danish oil home made or commercial brand [home made is cheaper] or tung oil diluted with turps. for lighter colored wood I use a aclylic sanding sealer and some times put a danish oil finish on top, the sanding sealer does not darken the wood as does an oil finish,
cheers
Jimbo
-
PS
I have also used MDF for puzels which I have painted with acrylic paont and then coated with dainsh oil, this gives it a more durable surface and does not leave brush marks
Jimbo
-
Lemon Oil, Thanks to Steve.