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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Bamacfa on October 12, 2011, 08:18:23 pm
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I use package tape on some of my patterns. Sometimes if there are many cuts the pattern lifts up and makes it hard to cut. Any suggestions on how to avoid this?
John
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Make very sure your PATTERN is well adhered to the wood or the Blue Painters' tape and burnish that packing tape down well with a soft cloth or a hard rubber roller!
~~~GB~~~
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Here is another tip...Double check to make sure you have removed all the sawdust from your work surface.
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And try to lay the packing tape FLAT with no air bubbles. I have this problem quit often when I get in a hurry to tape the wood. I have also quit using just any old cheap packing tape. I know it gets expensive, but I use Scotch brand packing tape all the time now. For one it is thicker and easier to control whereas the cheaper tape would always bunch up and I would waste more than use more. I also use an exacto knife to cut only what I need. I cannot cut my work with the tape under my wood considering I use plexiglass on top of my saw table.
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Cherie, what is the plexiglass for?
Marg
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The plexi glass is part of my zero clearance table.
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If you're cutting fretwork it is nice to print the pattern on a adhesive paper. That one does not lift at all.
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If you're cutting fretwork it is nice to print the pattern on a adhesive paper. That one does not lift at all.
Now thats a good idea..I need to find some of that
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I just re-tape the part that is lifting off.
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I agree with cherie that scotch tape is the best. I use a rubber spreader type item to help my tape stick to the wood better. I got it at work (grocery store) and it is used to get air bubbles out of the advertisments that they stick to the floor. Im sure you can find one at the auto store near the do it yourself window tint stuff. But that is just a guess. I also seen them on EPay. Here is a pictue of one.
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I do a lot of double bevel inlays...about 25 a week... and I use packing tape on the underside of the wood . It serves as a good lubricant against the scroll saw table. The wood slides and turns very well like this.
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Thanks for he tips!
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I found that the clear tape alone on the back of the wood was a real pain to peel off. No I don't have a heat gun and don't like slopping thinner around. So I tape the back with the blue tape when I tape the front and it comes off both surfaces much easier.
I might be wasting some of the spray adhesive but I put plenty on to keep the pattern from lifting up, fluttering patterns make me crosseyed!
Works for me!
Gabby