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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: sailer5373 on October 11, 2011, 10:12:44 am
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I have been trying to cut some of those gift boxes with the bow,which has a lot of straight lines for the side of the box. I am using some one inch curly maple and having a very hard time cutting. Really have to push it through, and getting a wavy cut which is a bugger to sand smooth. Is this a trait of curly maple? I am using a new number 9, 6r blade. I tried using a number 5r but started getting more wavy drift. What am I doing wrong? :'(
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I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but cutting 1" curly maple on a scroll saw is a challenge anytime - especially when trying to cut a straight line. The curly characteristic in the grain itself is going to be something to be reckoned with and I don't think that you are going to have a great deal of success in using this material in this manner. Is there any way you could use a table saw to cut the straight edges? If so, I would opt for that. Otherwise, you may need to rethink your wood type and try something less dense or softer.
Hopefully others will have some more options for you. I hope it works out. :)
Sheila
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depending on the brand and model some scrollsaw's can change the length of the stroke that saw makes.
on my Hegner I can choose between 19 mm or 12 mm.
when sawing thick wood the long stroke works better.
I also find that the 'two way cut' blades from FD Mike cut better then some other brands.
the bevel setting of the teeth makes the saw go 'of line' at an angle.
some blades like the 'two way cut' have less bevel in the teeth and cut more straight.
to cut a straight line is practice, practice and some more practice.
what helps me is using red lines on the pattern.
this way I can better see the difference between what I have cut (black kerf) and what not (red line).
and then when sawing I look with one eye on the blade and try to get the blade in line with the black kerf behind the blade from that what I already have cut.
when the two (blade and kerf) are in line then you cut straight....
that's my 2 cents.
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also slow saw speed and slow feed rate. Maple burns easily at a high blade speed and since it is so hard it requires a slow feed rate.
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Thanks scrollgirl for letting me know about the apparent difficulty that I would encounter when cutting this wood. I sure am glad to hear it isn't something that I'm doing wrong. I guess I'll try a little softer wood to cut instead. I am going to try slowing the saw down a bit too and see if it does any better. >:(
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I'm thinking that you need to make sure your blade is stretched TIGHT as well, to ensure it cant bow sideways and follow the grain as easily. Tighter is better!
I check by pushing some on the side of the blade (not running) and look to see how far it flexes with light pressure, I try to keep it under a 1/16" and periodically check again after running a while to see if it stretched and re tighten it if necessary. I've gotten used to the feel when I turn the tightening knob and know when to stop. It's just a matter of doing it over and over to get the feel, and to see what works for you..
I hope this helps and good luck.
Gabby