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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Radh1 on May 28, 2011, 01:58:13 pm
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Well I found out the hard way not to sand the edges with my sander.Anyone have any suggestions how to fix it?I thought about a piece of plywood but I think the vibration will knock my fillings out ;D
Thanks,Rob
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Hey Rob, Looks like you will have to contact the manufacturer for a replacement pad. Don't use plywood as the pad needs to give a little. There are other types of sanders to use for edge sanding such as a disk sander or a 1" belt sander. Also an oscillating spindle sander would also be of use. Or just use good ole elbow grease and use sandpaper!
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yeah I kinda thought I would have to buy a replacement.And I have all those sanders you mentioned I just wasnt thinking. :-[ lol
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WOW! you must have really been 'bearing down'! I 'edge sand' with my 1/4 sheet Makita all the time and have never left a groove like those. But mine is about 30 yrs. old and now the pad is almost as hard as the table top!
Good Luck with finding a replacement pad.
~~~GB~~~
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yeah I was bearing down on that sucker.. ::) lol Sanding that Red oak lid for a football Box I am making.The one in the pic of course.
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Bearing down on a sander does not help! It just wears out your sand paper (and in this case the pad) instead of smoothing the wood. Try easing up on the pressure and taking a bit more time in a given area and you will get better results and believe it or not it will be faster too!
Try it you will like it. ;D
Rog
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Radh1
If you can't get a replacement pad from the manufacturer.
Look around at your hardware store for firm foam padding they make it for vibration damping and sometimes you might be able to make do with a pad made for standing on, like they use in machine shops or for clerks at their cash register.
I have a piece of the firm stuff 1/2" thick but I'll bet they make it thinner. NO you can't have it! LOL
I'm going to cut it up and use it when I mount my saw permanently.
You can cut it with a box knife and you have the plate on the sander for a pattern so you shouldn't have a problem getting all the holes to line up. I hope this gives you some ideas, and is helpful.
Good luck,
Gabby
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I've went through 2 pads they both look just like that and no I didn't bear down on mine I think these pads today are made with cheap Mats so they wear out quick so you must buy the replacement pads may I suggest you do what I did I useed duct tape on mine I filled in the dent with an epoxy then duct taped over it works like charm.
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I use srcoll sanders. I think they are great! I have an old Dremel scroll saw that I keep set up with the sanders in it. I am away from my computer this weekend so I don't have access to my favorite site, bt I know Sloans sells them, and The wooden teddy bear site, I am sure there are many more. Thry them, they can be a life saver
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Thanks for all the great Ideas,I will have it back to "new" before long one way or the other.I have seen the sanders for the scroll saw and was wondering how they worked.I think I will give them a try..Again Thanks.
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Hey Rob, I didn't want to bring this up earlier, but here it goes. You need to start working on being more accurate with your cuts. If you stray off the line, make a gradual return to the line rather than make an abrupt return. When you make an abrupt return, it will show and will have to be addressed. If you make a gradual return to the line, it will not show. When I make a mistake, I can go back and smooth it out with the right side of the blade. There is a burr on the right side of the blade and helps with the clean up. Also using the right blade for the cut will help with a smooth cut. The rule of thumb that most people use is use the largest blade size for the cut. I am just the opposite. I use the smallest blade that will make the cut accurately. The smaller the blade the smoother the cut. 95% of cuts I make never need sanding, and I have never used any kind of scroll sanders or scroll files. If an edge does need sanding, I use either the 1" stationary belt sander or the oscillating spindle sander.
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Thanks for the tips dgman,I am sponging up all these tips and tricks From you guys as I go.
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Rob: Let the sander do the work, not your body - take your time and work slower. The one thing we all have is time, use it wisely. I only know this because of the MANY mishaps I have had over MANY years of mistakes. I remember well saying to myself, "Well that didn't work".
Vince
Winter Park, Fl
Near the Mouse House
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Thanks Vince , I do get ahead of myself at times and rush my work.I have to remember I am not getting payed to hurry as this is a hobby.Hey I see your from Winter Park,I live in Apopka/15 mins away.Small world.
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Rob: I have found using sand paper on the sander is a good thing....LOL.....Vince
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Another thought, Rob...
Take your sander, lay it on its side and clamp it at the edge of the work surface.
Then when you turn it on your hands are free to work the wood against the pad!
I do this all the time for finishing up a pro0ject that I have 'wandered' aweay from the cut line...
~~~GB~~~
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I have my belt sander clamped in the vise on the bench. Works fine. I also bolted my grinder to two inch stock so I can clamp it into the vise also.