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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: upnorthwoodwookers on February 26, 2011, 10:02:25 am
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Morning All.....What have you guys and gals found to be the best remover of patterns? I've read several things, guess I'm concerned about messing up the wood with some of the stories I've read. Thanks.... 8)
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Light sanding with a high numbered grit of paper, I also (depending on what Pattern I am doing) don't use any adhesive at all I got use box tape Duck HD clear is the best IMHO when It starts to come up I get a small peice and tape it back down till I'm done.... Not saying this works for everyone I just find that it works for me is all.
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A little mineral spirits will take it right off without messing up the wood. Try putting it in a spray bottle.
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I use a heat gun, A hair dryer will work also. The heat will loosen the pattern from the wood and it will come off very easily. If there is any residue left, use a little mineral spirits and wipe it off.
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I do almost the same thing. Only difference is, I put the project in the microwave for about 30 seconds because most things I cut are smaller and will fit on the table in the microwave. For something too big for the microwave, I will use a hair dryer. Then a light spray of mineral spirits will clean off any sticky residue.
A final light sanding, and it is ready for a coat or two of finish.
Jim
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I use plain ole Painters Tape on applied to the top of the wood. Use a permanent spray glue on the painters tape and bottom of the pattern. Apply pattern to painterst tape and cut, cut and cut. After all is finished just peel the tape off. Piece of cake and NO clean up. Danny :+}
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I cove rthe piece of wood with clear packing tape and then adhere the pattern to the tape. When done cutting remove the tape very easily. Quick and clean removal.
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I'm with Danny and Jim. Like the microwave idea too, I sometimes forget to put the packing tape on.
David
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Have tried all the above, and the prepositional (sp)spray but find that I either don't apply enough or too much or not letting it dry long enough before cutting.
So I use painters tape (cheap white) for the bigger jobs, blue delicate for the finer jobs and apply glue stick, again (cheap 2dollar stuff) and apply that to the back of the pattern.
If there is any lifting during the cutting I use white painters tape to stick it down again. The black lines of the pattern can be seen through the tape.
***Merlin***
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I use most of the above also. Use a lot of tape, cheap masking tape first, glue the pattern and put on Masking tape NOW, If it burns use a layer of clear tape. One of the things beside my saw is a glue stick for the very seldom times a pattern tries to come up, or a piece of scotch tape to hold down. Whatever is in reach. I also have a Popsicle stick with the end tapered down to rub against any pop-ups or to hold down the paper pattern close to the blade.
To remove, heat, mineral spirits, extreme care. This is not the time for breakage. Good Luck :)
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I like to use the cheap white painters tape as well. Then I take the pattern and use a spray on adhesive like the Loctite brand. After I finish cutting the pattern, I carefully remove the remaining pattern and the tape, then finish sand up to 320. I have tried the other methods and they work alright, but I keep going back to this method. Hope this helps!
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I use the Removable Adhesive Paper from Sloans http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm
Don't want to leave it on for more than a few days, or the adhesive sticks more to the wood. If any residue, some masking tape applied over and removed will pull it off, then sand.
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I cove rthe piece of wood with clear packing tape and then adhere the pattern to the tape. When done cutting remove the tape very easily. Quick and clean removal.
Dumb newbie asks. What would happen if you put the clear packing tape on, then lay the pattern over it and tape it again with the clear packing tape?
Gabby
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Gabby, you can do that but if you don't use some kind of adhesive on the back of the pattern, sawdust will get between your layers and it will be increasingly difficult to cut. Plus it's kind of a waste of tape. The only time I use tape is when I am cutting a wood that tends to burn. Otherwise, I just use the spray adhesive on the back of my pattern.
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Hey!
Don't use spray adhesive - that's a retiree's thing. ;D ;) :D
I print my patterns on sticker. Those are simple removable - even better when the tape is between sticker and wood. They can stay on for weeks and will simply be peeled off.
Might be a little more expensive - but is so much easier to work with and will save time and nerves in the shop.
regards
Torsten
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Torsten where do you get your sticker paper at i been wanting to try patterns that way wasn't sure how good it works.
Hey!
Don't use spray adhesive - that's a retiree's thing. ;D ;) :D
I print my patterns on sticker. Those are simple removable - even better when the tape is between sticker and wood. They can stay on for weeks and will simply be peeled off.
Might be a little more expensive - but is so much easier to work with and will save time and nerves in the shop.
regards
Torsten
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I completely agree with you, regarding the method to remove the pattern paper.
Another more complicated because it is double work is to use carbon paper to spend your design pattern to the wood and start cutting, taping trans?rente to lubricate your blade.
If this still is not enough just to have one last option:
Take your timber, put them together, light a match and problem solved ;D
Estoy completamente de acuerdo con todos ustedes, respecto al m?todo para remover el papel del patr?n.
Otro m?todo m?s complicado pues es doble trabajo ser?a usar papel carb?n para pasar tu dise?o de patr?n a la madera y empezar a cortar, encintado trans?rente para lubricar tu hoja.
Si a?n esto no es suficiente s?lo queda una ?ltima opci?n:
toma tu madera, juntala, enciende un cerillo y problema solucionado ;D
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Similar to tux_linux, I use "full sheet" labels available from http://www.onlinelables.com (http://www.onlinelables.com) and find that they work wonderfully well.
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I use different methods depending on the thickness of the wood. If it's 1/2" or thicker I use repositional spray adhesive (even though I'm not a retiree lol) then HD clear packaging tape. To remove it I use mineral spirits. I've used alcohol before when I ran out of mineral spirits and it worked but not as good. For thin wood I use painters tape then spray the pattern and put clear tape on top. I like the idea of the full sheet labels though :)
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I've been using white adhesive shelf paper from walmart. I stick it on the wood and then spray the back of my pattern with elmers (or whichever) spray adhesive and press onto the shelf paper. It has worked every time and the shelf paper comes off easy as spit. :) even with the fine cuts..
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@ newfie
I live in Germany - so I'm using the German "Herma" Labels No. 4428 (DinA4) and No 5064 (2xDin A5).
But I think it does not matter which ones you use - just don't buy the cheapest, those are often not cut on the release paper and won't come off that one. Mine has 5-6 stripes of release paper - easy to deal with.
regards
Torsten
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Hey!
Don't use spray adhesive - that's a retiree's thing. ;D ;) :D
I print my patterns on sticker. Those are simple removable - even better when the tape is between sticker and wood. They can stay on for weeks and will simply be peeled off.
Might be a little more expensive - but is so much easier to work with and will save time and nerves in the shop.
regards
Torsten
Hey Torsten I didn't know Steve was retired? Probably just tired, he uses it in all of his videos probably wears him out doing all that spraying. LOL
Seriously now. What is sticker? I'm not familiar with the term. Are they labels?
Gabby
Ok I didn't read all the posts before replying. I've used clear satin label "paper" but it is pretty expensive around a $1.00 per sheet 8 1/2 by 11 inches.
The adhesive shelf paper sound interesting, Does it have a peel off backing I'm guessing it does?
Gabby
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I don't like the spray adhesive, but not because I am not retired. I don't like the smell, the fumes make me have to go outside to do it and I like convience. Most of the time I put a layer of packing tape down, then use a gluestick to get the pattern stuck to the tape. I will use another layer of tape if the wood is hard and burns(like cherry) or if I decide after the fact to add another stack to the pile.
I usually use packing tape but will use masking tape if I have it handy. Sometimes I think the masking tape comes off better, and other times not.
I do use blue painters tape if I am working on a project that will take me a long time to finish. I find that some tapes leave more "ick" behind the longer they are left on. As a busy mom, sometimes it will be a week between times I can cut.
I use an old hair-dryer to help remove the tape if it doesn't peel nicely.
MrsN
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I use low tack masking tape and peel off labels, works for me......Paul ;D
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Gabby, yep-just the regular 5.98 shelf paper (from walmart) Big roll that has the backing. Bonus points cause it has the ruled lines on back for cutting. I just cut 2 fret butterflies last night and pulled the shelf paper right off...sweet! I wont use anything else anymore for pattern mounting.
Bonus two-the shelf paper also acts as a lube for the blade albeit...thin.
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FLAME THROWER GETS IT OFF EVERYTIME ;D ;D
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Edward: Does this shelf paper come of easier than tape (painters or any other).
And does white shelf paper come with a shiny surface.
I have not heard of it in NZ, we have paper that can and has been used on shelves, but it has a peel-able sticky side and the other side is shiny.
***Merlin***
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Gabby, yep-just the regular 5.98 shelf paper (from walmart) Big roll that has the backing. Bonus points cause it has the ruled lines on back for cutting. I just cut 2 fret butterflies last night and pulled the shelf paper right off...sweet! I wont use anything else anymore for pattern mounting.
Bonus two-the shelf paper also acts as a lube for the blade albeit...thin.
Thanks Edward, I'll give that a try once it dries out and warms up here. At least it was just rain today, I'm hoping the snow is finished.
Gabby
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On http://www.intarsia.net there is a PPT for a rose.
I see that they use rubber cement.
long time ago I used this and I know that you can glue paper and remove it again without destroying it.
What is your experience with rubber cement and patterns on wood?