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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: BillBo on April 23, 2010, 04:54:36 pm
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Im going to be glueing a clock to a base,
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For wood in my opinion Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue. I use it all the time. Sets fast, sandable, paintable and water clean up. If you try to take something apart you have glued the wood usually will break before the glue joint. :D
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I always use a glue called Weldbond: holds great and dries clear. I ususally get it at Sloans Woodshop on the web-not sure if it's available elsewhere.
~Jo
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I always use titebond 111 never had a problem with it, holds great. Edward
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I vote for titebond ll or titebond lll if it's going out doors.
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Yes Titebond is another good one. I have some in my shop too. Liquid Fusion is a new one on the market that is good. I think the reason I like Elmer's so much is, because my father always used it and it has worked great for me. ::)
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My top choices are Titebond II or III or Weldbond, Sloans has the best price on the Weldbond.
Greg
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Used Elmers for years because thats what Dad used. I tried poly glue on time and now thats all I use, for gluing small projects Elmers is water based and you have to worry about the wood warping.
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I use Titebond III, and Gorilla Wood Glue...The Titebond works well on "straight forward" applications, and I've found that the Gorilla Wood Glue is a better choice for some "trickier" situations...Even so, both of these glues are basically the same...Please don't confuse the Gorilla Wood Glue with other glues made by the same company...Their wood glue isn't a poly glue, which foams and expands as it dries.
More importantly than which glue to use, is how you use it...Here are a few tips that I've found that work well.
- Dry fit all joints prior to gluing...If the joints don't line up/fit flush, the glue won't be very effective...The mismatch in fit might apply enough force to cause the joint to fail...As someone already pointed out, if the joint fails, the wood will fail before the glue...Therefore, the excess stress caused by the misfit might cause the wood to snap.
- Keep your finish in mind at the start, and during every step throughout your project...Glue and finish don't mix well...Stain will not penetrate where glue has been smeared, and glue will not fully adhere where stain/oil has been applied.
- As much as possible, glue before finishing (there are exceptions)...Wood glue is designed to bond raw wood; it needs to get into the pores...If the pores get clogged with oil/stain, the glue will have a harder time trying to find something to "bite" into...In those situations where you need to apply finish prior to gluing, mask the surfaces that will be glued prior to finishing...Keep the masking tape slightly to the inside of the designated glue area to allow the finish to just slightly creep-in enough so that when the two pieces are jointed together, there is no bare wood...I am currently working on a project where I am having to do just this, because the two pieces that will be glued together need to be stained different colors...If I glued them first, I'd have a harder time trying to keep the colors separated.
- Minimize squeeze-out of glue from the joint (although some squeeze-out is good, because it indicates that enough glue was used)...Too much will negatively affect the finish...While dry fitting, use blue painters tape to mask-off the areas adjacent to the joint where you don't want to get glue on...As the glue is forced out of the joint, it will get on the tape, rather than seeping into the surface of the wood to be finished...After the glue has partially or completely dried, peel the tape off.
- If glue squeezes out of the joint, DON'T TRY TO WIPE IT IMMEDIATELY! Doing so will smear the glue into the pores of the wood, which will show in your finish...Instead, wait until the glue has partially dried, and then use a toothpick or similar item, to remove the glob...Alternately, you can also wait until the glue has completely dried, and then use a chisel to remove the glue.
- All of these squeeze-out tips work, but as I tell my kids, if you minimize your mess in the first place, then you won't have as much to clean up afterwards (WHEN POSSIBLE, USE THE MASKING TAPE).
- Use acid brushes or similar items to paint the glue onto the wood in thin even coats...Not too thin, but less glue works better than too much glue...The glue needs to penetrate the pores, and needs to cover the entire surface area to be glued, in order to be most effective.
- Clamp firmly, but not too firmly...Too little pressure won't provide enough force to bond the surfaces...Too much pressure will force too much of the glue out of the joint...Ratcheting clamps are great, but if you're not careful, you can squeeze them too tight (I was guilty of this for a long time).
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I've had great success with Gorilla Wood Glue. Thats all I ever use.
Happy Scrolling
Bill
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Thanks for the tips, Ripchief. I'd heard some of them before but not all of them and, as a newbie, I am always looking for helpful tips.
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I mainly use Gorilla wood glue, but have Titebond II and III in the shop also.
I swiped a Glad hard sandwhich container from my wife, as well as a sponge... I put a little distilled water in it and keep it under my work bench.
This way, I always have a damp sponge handy for glue clean-up when needed.
Ez
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I like titebond ultimate and weldbond. I also use gorilla glue and for very permanent jobs I use PL. it is a 100% polyurethane glue. Very strong. For intarsia I use a CA (super glue) glue the gel is what I prefer. I also use clear calking glue to fill in and hide any gaps in my intarsia. I WILL NOT use Elmers...........All of the above mentioned glues are made in Ohio..Elmers is made in CHINA.....I will not use it...
Amen
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Just to set the record straight:
Elmer's is a company rich in history and tradition. Headquartered in Columbus, Ohio, Elmer's has been producing the most well known line of consumer adhesives for over six decades in the USA.
The company was originally part of the Borden? Company, which introduced the first consumer white glue in 1947.
Elmer is the spouse of Borden's famed corporate symbol, Elsie the cow.
USA not China 8)
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I did not know that there was a different types of gorilla glue. I must not have the wood glue. I haven't liked the results with what I have. I"ll be looking for Gorilla Wood Glue when I get back to Lex.(tomorrow an back to my shop)
Ken
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Thanks, Rip, for the tips. Never thought of using tape to mask unwanted glue areas!
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I've had great luck with ELMER"S ProBond wood Glue for many-a-many years .........
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One note on using the masking tape...The tape can be removed either after the glue has completely dried, or when the glue has partially dried (just after it is no longer a liquid, but before it becomes fully solid)...I have found that although both of these work, removing the tape before the glue completely hardens is easier than waiting until it has completely dried...If the glue is still somewhat soft, it pulls right off with the tape...If the glue has had a chance to harden, then the tape either pulls out from under the glue, or the tape rips during removal...If this is the case, a utility knife is needed to clean off the dried glue and the remnants of tape...Either way, it's much better than spreading glue everywhere and having it negatively impact the project.
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I primarily do intarsia and work with a lot of exotic woods. I have settled on using Titebond III. It works very well with all of the woods and have not experienced any problems of not holding with those woods.