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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: northie66 on April 22, 2010, 05:52:56 pm
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I have some extension cords that have an on/off tap switch... like they use for Christmas trees. Are these ok to use for scroll saws? Can you use any on/off switch?
Thanks,
Janet
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Hi Janet, First I sent you a private message explaining how to send one. The foot pedal switch that most people use is made for power tools and there amp rate of power. Also it will free up both hands for scrolling. When you lift your foot the saw stops. It is also designed for the amount of pressure your foot produces. I would not recommend one not made for the job and the one you are discribing doesn't. I got mine from Sears. Hope this helps... 8)
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Janet--what you need is a momentary foot switch. this works when you push with foot and turns off when you lift your foot up--Harbor freight has some for around $15 it think--I have used one of theirs for a couple of years I Hope this helps you. Richard aka thumbs
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Janet - I got mine at Woodcraft for about twenty dollars. The foot pedal will save your on/off switch on the machine from being replaced as often. I like the control you have when cutting. Also I put a cover (just clear tape) over my on/off switch to keep sawdust out. I think the foot pedal is as close to a must as a good light source.
Barry
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Mine is the momentary on/off (if you take your foot off of it, the saw shuts off) that I picked up at Woodcraft for $20...It is EXTREMELY handy, especially for delicate situations where taking your hand off the workpiece to operate the on/off switch could result in ruining your project...There are also those situations where you're cutting along, and you get to a point that you need to immediately stop the cut and rethink how to proceed, before you are about to make a mistake...Not to mention that if the blade breaks, you can immediately stop the machine (although, this isn't an issue on the Eclipse saw, because if the blade breaks on it, then the saw senses that it lost tension and will shut off automatically).
My saw (Dremel 1680; trust me, don't buy it) has an onboard light (poor design, but it's there)...I don't use it...Instead, I use a circular florescent magnifier light...If I were to use the onboard light (which uses the same power cord as the saw motor), the light would turn on and off every time that I press the pedal.
In any event, I will not cut without a foot switch...If I were a scroll saw manufacturer, I'd include it as part of the purchase package.
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hi janet,
I use a momentary foot switch also. I got mine at HarborFreight.com for $9.99 before tax, I picked it up at the store near my town so the shipping cost wasnt applied. I wouldnt use a scroll saw without a foot switch, cause I do think its best to have both your hands free to manuever your project.
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Hi Janet
I'd be lost without my foot pedal. There is so much more control with it. Works especially well when you have to cut sharp corners, just a few taps and u r have it done. I would not recommend using a Xmas Tree switch though...not rated for the power of the saw and you may damage the motor or the speed control. I bought mine thru Ebay for under $20 inc shipping.
Happy Scrolling....Keith
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I too could not live without my foot switch. However I tried both types and I prefer the tap on and remove foot and tap off when I want to stop the saw. I get leg cramps from having to hold the pedal down on the other type.
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You can use the (dead man switch) on all power tools. As additional point of safty
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Yes, the foot switch can be used with other tools...However, be careful to pay attention to the amperage rating of the tool as compared to the amperage rating of the switch...Do not attempt to use a tool that has a higher amperage rating than the switch...Refer to label plates/operator's manuals for these ratings.
Along these lines, pay attention to the amperage rating of tools with respect to the amperage rating of extension cords (if used)...The amperage rating is related to the wire gauge used in the extension cord...For example, a 14 AWG cord can support a greater load than a 16 AWG cord (smaller numbers mean larger diameter wire, which means larger current carrying capability)...Also, keep the length of the extension cord as short as possible...Too long of an extension cord and/or too small of wire gauge will "starve" the power needed to efficiently operate equipment.
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What's the amperage of the Dewalt 788?
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Ok, I am gonna sound really funny here...my first foot pedal was made from a hand skil saw switch and a board. I do not know how he did it, but it worked great. I do have a foot switch I purchased from Shopsmith when I bought belts for my saw.
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Janet
The amperage of the 788 is 1.3 amp (NOM). I guess that means 'nominal' (average???)
Keith
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Now I don't know which I want... a kill switch or a momentary switch.
Decisions... decisions...
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I have some extension cords that have an on/off tap switch... like they use for Christmas trees. Are these ok to use for scroll saws? Can you use any on/off switch?
Thanks,
Janet
I made my on/ off switch and I use my knee to operate it the only thing is I keep forgetting to turn the main off when I am changing the blade it has painful results
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I like the billy pedal from rbi or seyco they are a real low profile and easy on the leg and foot. For those who want to turn on the light with the saw just use a plug strip pluged into the switch then plug in the saw and light into the strip. I use my light for other things besides cutting tho.
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I use a system to avoid Patch's mishap...It might me less safe than shutting off the power, but it seems to work...My foot switch is on the floor next to the saw...I sit on a counter height stool that has cross bars near the bottom...Every time that I take my foot off of the switch, I move it away from switch by hooking it into the stool bar...Whatever works...The important point is to figure out a system, and then develop a habit, so that the safety practices just come naturally...If securing power works best for you, that's great, but DO IT EVERY SINGLE TIME...We are creatures of habit.
In designing my setup, I'd read about people that used their knee to operate the switch, but I saw too many potential problems with inadvertent activation of the switch...The knee setup would prohibit me from standing off to the side while cutting a larger workpiece...The knee thing would also require me to apply constant pressure against the side of the stand...I think that would feel too awkward and not allow me to remain comfortable throughout the cutting process.
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Janet, I too use the switch from Woodcraft. Scrolled for a while without one but will not make that mistake again. it is well worth the investment.
Gary
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What is the major difference between the on/off switch and the momentary switch offered from Woodcraft ??
JT
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What is the major difference between the on/off switch and the momentary switch offered from Woodcraft ??
JT
I brought my foot switch at Woodcraft for about $25 shipping and all { Love It } . But later brought another back-up foot switch at Harbor Frieght for half that's $10 and compared them > they were the exact same foot switch . So you know where the deal is { Harbor Frieght } , the on/off works like you place your foot on it and when you lift you foot off of it > it stops your tool . ..I like the switch for when the foot off it's dead and I love this feature for sure ........hope this helps someone ...........Marshall
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There are drawbacks to both of these switches.
When using a kill switch you have to make a conscious effort turn the saw off. If your foot is not in contact with the switch then you first have to find the switch with your foot before you can turn the saw off. If you are at a critical point cutting a pattern it may be already too late. The good thing about the kill switch is that during a long cutting run the comfort level is better because your free to move your foot. Another disadvantage is that you do not have complete control over the number of strokes the blade travels; if you hit the on/off action as quickly as you can as many as 15 strokes have occurred (really depends on how fast you have the saw at).
The momentary switch acts like a kill switch... the saw stops when you take your foot off the switch. The disadvantage is that you have to have your foot in constant contact with the switch and then your comfort level decreases. There is a way around this and that is to place your foot where the switch is closer to your instep rather than use your toes. The biggest advantage is that you are able to control the number of strokes the blade has. With practice a single stroke can be achieved; this is especially useful for cutting very sharp curves.
I have both types of switch but my preference is the momentary switch because of the control. The best recommendation I can give you is to try both switches then make your decision.
I have not used a knee switch so I won't comment on it. Perhaps one of the other members can post the pros and cons about the knee setup.
Hope that my 2 cents worth helps...Keith
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I just purchased a momentary foot switch from Harbor Freight ($9.99 - 20% off coupon = $7.99). Can't beat that price. Now I need to get used to it. First impression is it's Great for exactly what keidiag stated. Happy Scrolling!
Bill
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Very helpful replies, thanks so much. I am in the process of rearranging my shop and will probably fix a more comfortable set up for the scroll saw use. I wasn't sure about the difference in the 2 switches.
PS: Isn't this forum an awesome opportunity for folks to share with each other??
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I ordered the switch from Harbor Freight... thanks ufgator. Of course, I paid more because I ordered it online. I don't have that store near me. I can't wait to get it!!! Thanks everyone for your explanations and such :)
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I went to Harbor Freight and got the "deadman" switch for 9.99. Pretty good investment I think. Really havent used it much though. I also put casters on the scrollsaw stand, but it is way too high. The caster are coming off and I will use them on my router table.
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Hey Janet,Wax up your table,plug in your foot switch and your ready to start cutting,Lots of good info on this site isnt there,BillBo
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Hi Janet
I'm curious....which switch did you order, Dead Man or Momentary?
Keith
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After much deliberation... momentary. ;D
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I don't think you'll regret getting the momentary one. If you need help setting it up or run into problems just send me a personal msg. Hopefully I'll be able point you in the right direction..
Keith
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I am so there with Janet, and thank you everyone for your input. I too am worried about the comfort level of the dead-man switch, but there have been too many times while doing fret work that I wish I could have just said stop, to shut my saw off, so it appears that the dead man is what I need. I have had both ankles broken in the past, so maybe this will help kink out the stiffness, if not will have to go to momentary. I will up date this after I use it a bit.
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I guess I'm in the minority here. Don't use one and don't have a need for a foot switch.
I sit on a bar stool and usually keep my feet on a stool rung or on the brace of the stand wile I'm sawing.
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I wish my switch would get here. I just tracked it... it left Fedex in California. I'm in Pa. Maybe I should have paid extra for fast shipping! ;)
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Janet,
I live about 15 miles from Harbor Freight! I try to stay away from there though ::)
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Well I have had the foot switch for a week and I am so glad I got it. I dont know how I ever scrolled without one before. Now I just need to remember to pick up my foot to stop the saw, sometimes I still go for the switch on the saw.
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It takes a while to change the habit of reaching for the saw switch but it eventually becomes a natural movement.
I got my 'momentary' switch very early in my learning process so it came fairly quickly.
My next 'wiring' project will be to hard wire the foot switch and jumper the saw switch out completely. Will mount a 4 square box on my saw stand so I have a receptacle to plug in my light/magnifier so it will be controlled independently from the saw switch and remove the saw light. Will also mount an aquarium pump to provide air to the re-configured blower and that will run with the saw.
This will result in a single cord from the wall receptacle to the saw. There are enough cords running around my 'mobile' shop.
All my tools are on wheeled stands so we can, when necessary, move everything out of the way and get the car in the garage!
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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When I get my foot switch, I'm going to put tape over the hand switch. Especially since now I know the dewalts tend to have switch problems. Not sure if that was my problem but still.
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I don't think I could make it without my foot switch. The only problem I have with it is the light on my saw also goes off when I take my foot off the switch. Seeing how I am an electrician maybe I could get into the saw's wiring and fix this problem just haven't taken time to do that.
David
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Just buy a separate light. ;D
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That's one of the reasons that I use the circular florescent magnifier light...I've had brighter ideas than the light that's equipped with my saw...I even think that the bathroom night light is brighter than the saw's built-in light.
Get a good light even if your room is well lit...I perform non-destructive testing in my job...While performing visual inspections, a good light source is required to see fine details...Under the wrong lighting conditions (what most of us consider bright enough), lots of stuff can get overlooked...Ambient lighting, even in something like a well lighted office/classroom/etc, isn't enough by itself...You need a decent light source focused on what you're looking at...At the same time, don't go overboard and get a light that's so bright that you end up blinding yourself or getting a sunburn from the reflection off of the object being illuminated.