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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: G-Man on November 12, 2010, 11:23:51 am
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How do I transfer patterns to the wood? I did a search on "Pattern Transfer" but got no results. Maybe I'm not searching the right term.
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this should help if you are talking about tracing pattern on to the wood
http://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Pattern_Transfer_Paper
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Most of us photocopy the pattern and apply the photocopy directly to the wood surface using spray adhesives. I use 3m spray adhesive as it is relatively inexpensive. I spray the back of the photocopy and wait about 30seconds to allow the glue to tack up a bit.
I then apply directly to my pre-sanded (to 220 grit) wood surface. I then cover the entire pattern with clear packing tape. This ensures the pattern wil not lift, and helps lubricate the saw blade to avoid burning.
Once I'm through cutting my project i use mineral spirits in a spray bottle and thoroughly cover the pieces/project. Let it set for a few minutes and the pattern and tape will lift right off. If there is any residue left behind I spritz it one more time and wipe off with an old t-shirt as it is lint free.
I then dip my finished project in either pure lemon oil or danish oil, blow off or wipe off excess and let dry.
That's how I do it now and for the past 10-12 years. Hope it helps.
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I do it the way Dunk does, I only use a blowdryer to remove the pattern afterwards.
David
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I do exactly what Dunk does. If it is a really big pattern, I will use carbon paper. Winfield sells it up to 4' X 8' sheets.
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Hi G-man, just as an aside, what is that plane you are holding.
Malc
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Hi G-man, just as an aside, what is that plane you are holding.
Malc
It's a Parkzone Radian 2 Meter Powered Glider
http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PKZ4700 (http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PKZ4700)
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Thanks for all the tips!
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Most of us photocopy the pattern and apply the photocopy directly to the wood surface using spray adhesives. I use 3m spray adhesive as it is relatively inexpensive. I spray the back of the photocopy and wait about 30seconds to allow the glue to tack up a bit.
I then apply directly to my pre-sanded (to 220 grit) wood surface. I then cover the entire pattern with clear packing tape. This ensures the pattern wil not lift, and helps lubricate the saw blade to avoid burning.
Once I'm through cutting my project i use mineral spirits in a spray bottle and thoroughly cover the pieces/project. Let it set for a few minutes and the pattern and tape will lift right off. If there is any residue left behind I spritz it one more time and wipe off with an old t-shirt as it is lint free.
I then dip my finished project in either pure lemon oil or danish oil, blow off or wipe off excess and let dry.
That's how I do it now and for the past 10-12 years. Hope it helps.
I do basically the same thing but in a different order and one additional item.
Once the wood is prepared, I put on shelf paper which when done cutting, comes right off with very little if any residue, i.e., all that is require is very light sanding, no more than normal to get rid of the cutting marks. I get 50 sq ft (20" x 30') for around $10.00 at Lowes/Home Depot. (Steve Good uses 8-1/2" x 11" sheets that he get from Sloan's --- shelf paper is 2 to 3 times cheaper depending on the quanty and even without shipping).
I then cover everything with packing tape and finally, the pattern goes on top. (I also use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive). I put the pattern on top of the tape because I have had the tape trapping the saw dust and making thing hard to see, especially walnut (but that is what I've found, others may not have had that problem).
I finish with Watco Oil (danish oil).
HTH, Joe
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on hardwoods i put blue painters tape onto the wood stick my pattern to this. when finished i
pull tape off, ready to sand fuzzies, and finish. on bb i use sloans sticky sheets, have no problem with them. will look into shelf liner paper. thanks
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Oh Thank you Termite!! I thought every one would think I was a ditz for doing it the way I do. I hate spray adhesive. Here is how I do it..
Sand the board. cover with blue painters tape. then smear the back of the paper pattern with glue stick and stick it to the board. cut and when done take the tape off . No residue.
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I tried it that way, I ended up with more glue stick on my hands and it didn't seem to hold the paper in place in real thin areas. Maybe it was the brand of glue stick I was using.
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As you can see G-Man, there are many ways to do it. Find what works for you and get out there and make some saw dust!
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i use the painters tape as well it also helps lubricate the blade in thicker wood
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As you can see G-Man, there are many ways to do it. Find what works for you and get out there and make some saw dust!
I'll make some dust as soon as my blades arrive! ;D
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yyyyguy...do you put packaging tape over the pattern too or like me just figure the paiunters tape lubrecates enough??
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My method....Top to bottom
Packing tape
Pattern
Painters Tape
Wood
~~~GB~~~
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spray adhesive or glue stick?
object of the packinbg tape?
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3M "77" spray adhesive. Allow to set up for at least 30 seconds. It was originally manufactured to glue the 'headliners' in automobile manufacturing.
Packing tape is said to 'lubricate' the Blade due to the agents applied to the tape during manufacture to keep it from sticking to itself when on the roll.
I have no definitive answer that this is the case but "It works for me!"
There is an ongoing argument/discussion of this 'phenomena' but no one has proved it conclusively to my knowledge!
~~~GB~~~
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I'm with you Judy and GB, I "THINK" the painters tape might be enough but the packing tape is so cheap why chance it? It also holds down the pattern on those difficult cuts. Pete
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I use a cheap pva then sand the pattern off after I have cut it out, I use a belt sander, spray adhesive is over $18 a can here
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i use spray adhesive on pattern, stick to blue painters tape, let dry a few minutes, drill holes and start cutting. never tried glue stick. i tried clear tape over pattern kept getting sawdust under tape.
wont do that again
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I put the "delicate" blue painter's tape (it has a yellow core) on the wood and the pattern on the tape. I rarely use a top layer of tape. If I am cutting a 3D piece I glue the pattern to the wood and cover it in packing tape (all around the wood).
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OK, am I the only one who chooses to not wrap my wood in tape? The only time I use tape is when I am cutting a wood that might burn like purple heart, hard maple or red oak or doing compound cuts. I have such a hard time seeing the clear tape to get it off. Pine and poplar and BB - I never put tape on it. I choose to use the blue painters tape when stack cutting.
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I use the stickey paper from Slones workshop. A littleer pricey but comes right off. EZ. I also cover it with packing tape. Sometimes I just use the paper if it is a simple cutout. But I am new also.
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OK, am I the only one who chooses to not wrap my wood in tape? The only time I use tape is when I am cutting a wood that might burn like purple heart, hard maple or red oak or doing compound cuts. I have such a hard time seeing the clear tape to get it off. Pine and poplar and BB - I never put tape on it. I choose to use the blue painters tape when stack cutting.
OK Julie, I use the clear packing tape on woods that tend to burn like Cherry, Maple, Red Oak and on very hard hardwoods. I do not use tape on woods that are softer like mahogany, Pine, Walnut and Baltic birch. So what I am saying is I don't tape every project. Just the ones that might burn or could benefit from the lubrication the tape provides.
To address the problem of sawdust getting under the tape, when you apply the tape, make sure you don't leave any bubbles between the pattern and the
tape. I use a plastic putty knife to "burnish" the tape after it is applied. Run the putty knife along the tape to make sure the tape is tight against the pattern. That will help eliminate sawdust getting under the tape.