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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: SamCec on October 02, 2010, 03:30:38 am
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I am trying to gain my experience by making crafts. Many of these crafts will be placed on a table, desk etc.
In addition to the actual design, I make a base for the item. Depending on the item, the base usually varies between 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch thick. An example is below.
To attach the base, I have been using a glue called Titebond #3. I notice after a month or two, I think because of the humidity in the air, the glue loosens up and the two pieces become separated.
I was thinking about using screws or staples. If I go with staples, I will buy an air-gun. Can anyone recommend the best way to accomplish a more permanent seal of the base to the craft? In your reply can you specify the name of products I should look into?
Thanks,
Sam
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I don't like screws...... I like everything wood.... so I use dowels and wood glue..... any brand will do.
Juvy
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I make the base the same size (length) as the project. I then cut a groove in base down the middle, the same thickness as the project 1/8" deep. So if you used 1/2" wood to make the top, the groove would be 1/2" wide 1/8" deep the length of the base. The groove gives more surface area for the glue to hold. 8)
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russ and juvy both have good ideas but personaly if it were me i would glue them in place then shoot a few brads threw the bottom of the base this way you get the bonding you want and the brads are never seen.
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i also cut a groove with my router then add a little glue and set the item in the groove and let it set.
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The problem with pneumatic brads or staples is overshooting or cracking the piece. I have thought I was right where I should be and flipped it over to find my brad nail has either diverted and come out the side of my top piece or I missed all together. Titebond should not be loosening up - that is what I use on outdoor projects because it is weatherproof.
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Julief: I made a jig so that it fits over the top of the craft. After I apply the Titebond, I place the jig on and then use clamps to hold the pieces together for about 4 to 6 hours. I have had 2 crafts separate within 6 weeks of gluing them. I must be doing something wrong????
Sam
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Sam - it sounds like you are doing everything right. I am the worst about not keeping things clamped long enough but I have never had one seperate - even in the rain. Maybe someone else has the answer.
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All the ones I have assembled have been glued with Locktite Super Glue Jel. A thin bead on the bottom of the piece and then clamped to the base for at least 3 hours. Haven't had one separate in two years.
I also make sure the bottom edge of the 'craft' has been lightly sanded AFTER all finishing steps just to give it a gripping surface.
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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Just a thought Sam, but are you finishing them before gluing? If you are that is the problem. Titebond does no stick well to the finish. 8)
I agree with julief. Especially on small projects had problems with pneumatic brads or staples miss shooting or cracking the piece. 8)
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I have found that the pneumatic staples will travel along the lines of the grain in almost every type of wood making the use a hit or miss proposition on anything requiring true accuracy.
If using even small brads I would most likely drill tiny pilot holes first to assure accuracy.
~~~GB~~~
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I think you folks hit the reason for my problem. Prior to gluing, I stain the items. I do NOT rough up the service that is to be glued. I will start taking some sandpaper to that area.
Thanks for the help. You folks solved another problem.
Sam
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Good to know! I also have had things fall apart. I didn't know you shouldn't stain them first. But what if the things you are gluing are pieces that require different stains?
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Janet...I have had great success with the "jel"/"gel" form of Super Glue by various manufacturers.
By not being so 'runny' it gives a little more substance to penetrate and to bond.
This is true of all things I have used it on not just wood.
~~~GB~~~
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I would suggest you stain the project and put the first coat of finish on it before gluing, keeping the stain off the bottom for gluing. Glue the project and base together. If any glue squeezes out use a damp cloth to remove. After the glue sets stain the bottom. The first coat of finish will protect the top from the bottom stain and keep it from being discolored. 8)
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By placing the dado in you give greater gluing surface and alleviate the problem of two tone stains. You always have a clean surface to glue too. Place the dado after staining of course. You can do stop dadoes as well. Make the base slightly longer than the "craft" piece and insert it into dado, or use wooden dowels and they 2 parts will never come apart.
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I use Tightbond I, II, or III on all of my items including furniture and I have NEVER had a failure on anything!
I really believe that you stained or finished the glue area before gluing. If you will just put some painters tape over the intended glue area before staining or finishing and then remove the tape just before gluing you will NOT have anymore problems.
Rog
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Sam I use a product called "ALEEN'S TACKY GLUE". Its very thick and will hold pieces in place while it dries, and it dries clear. I have used it to glue things after I have applied linseed oil. I use it to glue all my scroll saw projects and have never had a failure. You can get it at craft stores like Micheal's.
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I put blue tape over the place on both the base and the item before staining. That keeps the wood fresh and the glue penetrates it. Good Luck
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Try epoxy resin Sam the 2 pot mix, and clamp lightly
Jimbo
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You folks gave me a lot of good suggestions. Now I need to figure out what works best for me.
Thanks,
Sam