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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Becky on August 31, 2010, 10:28:30 pm
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So, I thought I'd try something new and different. I was going through Steve's catalog for ideas and I came across his beginner's portrait pattern of a zebra. I must be making progress as it doesnt' intimidate me nearly as much as it used to!
Anyway, looking at it and thinking I'll give it a try led me to realize I have several questions about the how-to's of portraits. I did a search but either didn't do a thorough one or this topic has not been addressed in much depth here.
First of all, I will be using a bought frame as I don't have the equipment or know-how needed to make frames. With that in mind, should I use 1/4" BB plywood or 1/8"? I have both on hand but thought 1/8" might fit more easily in a store-bought frame. (note the assumption that the piece will be worth framing! LOL)
Second, what do you use for backers? Another piece of wood painted or something else?
Third (and last for now), how do you finish the BB?
Thanks in advance for you wisdom and sage counsel! :)
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Hey Becky, Good for you on trying a portrait!
I think portraits look better in 1/8", but 1/8" is hard to control when cutting on the scroll saw. I stack two or three layers of 1/8" Baltic birch, or sometimes 1/8" oak plywood. The stacked layer will give you better cutting control, and you will have two or three projects cut at the same time!
As for a backer board, I prefer a wood backer. I like to use luan plywood and Oak plywood. I stain the plywood with a darker stain like cherry or mahogany. Most others use black felt or black paint on plywood.
As for a finish on Baltic birch, I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This brings out the grain of the wood. Then a top coat of Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.
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Haven't done but two so far, but I found when using a store bought frame using 1/8 BB and a black felt backing fits well. I like the Lemon oil finish better than staining since I could dip my project in the oil and had a difficult time getting stain in all the cuts to look even.
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I had purchased a bunch of frames from Walmart, Kmart, and Target when I first started cutting portraits. Some of the frames do not have much room for anything other than 1/8". Sometimes even the felt would really make the back of the frame hard to close. I had some other frames that the inside of their backing was already black and that worked fine without any additional backer. All of those frames had glass in them. I changed a couple to use the 1/8" plexiglas and it really made the piece much lighter and gave a little more room for the cut portrait and backer. Good luck.
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Thanks for your quick replies. Dgman, I'm on vacation this week so it seems like a good time to try something new. I won't resent the time so much if I totally botch it. I've spent the first part of the week finishing up some other projects.
I'll try it with 1/8". I just bought some of that today so there's no shortage of material.
ChaplainRon, do you glue the felt to another piece of wood or directly to the cut piece? I want to make sure I understand what you were saying.
I might try it both ways (or maybe multiple ways if there are more responses tomorrow) to get an idea of what I like best.
Either way, this information is enough to get me started. Thanks!
Oh, and there is a late-breaking post from EclipseScroller! Definitely 1/8" for me! When I go out to buy frames, I will look for one with black backing material. That's something I probably wouldn't have *ever* thought of. Thanks!
Where do you get the plexiglass? I had figured on a frame with glass just because it would be a dusting nightmare without it. I can see where plexiglass might be an advantage.
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A. Plexiglass or Acrylic will SCRATCH even with the lightest of 'dusting'.
B. I use spray adhesive on the back side of the cutting and use colored 'scrapbook' papers from Michaels. Makes for easy choice of color without the 'bulk' of felt or flannel.
C. Go to your friendly Office Depot, Kinko's or a local print shop and ask to buy some "Chip Board" like the backing on legal pads. Use that on the back side after placing the cutting in the frame.
D. Go to your friendly hardware store and get some 'Glazier's Points' to attach the backing to the frame.
I ALWAYS use very small screw eyes and picture hanging wire on any item I intend to hang.
That's MY Method and I am Staying With It!!!
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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A. Really? Wow, I had no idea.
B. How do you finish your work first? I did that with the "One that got away" pattern and ended up with oil stains on the paper. How long do you have to lt the piece sit and dry until that is no longer a problem? Because it sure sounds like and easy way to back it.
C. I always save the cardboard from the backs of my legal pads at home and at work. They come in handy in all sorts of ways. I have plenty of that.
D. OK, what's a glaizer's point? And how do you use them for this purpose? I know glazier has to do with glass but that's as far as I can take it.
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This link will give you the basics....<http://www.ehow.com/how_4716983_points-put-together-framed-print.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_4716983_points-put-together-framed-print.html)>
With most frames you can just PUSH the 'points' in with the flat blade of a screwdriver or rigid putty knife. A lot of the cheaper frames from places like the Dollar Store and Wal~Mart are plastic and not wood!
I finish most of mine with Natural Danish oil brushed on, two coats and allow to dry a couple of days. The front side gets a coat or two of semi-gloss spray lacquer. I do spray a single coat on the back side just to make sure the 'oil' surface is sealed and doesn't bleed on the backing paper (actually very light weight card stock).
I spread the Danish oil on with 1" or 2" "Pastry Brushes" that I get in bulk from a kitchen supply store! Some are used for cooking and the others for applying 'oil' finishes.
Carefully cleaned and washed between uses.
NO glass in the frames.
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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Paper vs Felt Backing
I tried construction paper and scrapbook paper for a backing. When I looked at it I did not like the glare from the paper. the felt seams to absorb the light rather than reflect it and gave a deeper look. I felt the same way about a hard wood backing even though perhaps wood would be more pure to the wood art project.
I guess it is all about taste and artistic expression. Glad to know there are so many ways to do it.
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Becky, I use danish oil. It dries pretty fast and I haven't had a problem with it bleeding into my backer. Spray urethane seals it in. I use wood as a backer but I make my frames to fit.
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I have used Lemon Oil, Spray Stain of different shades, left them natural and use oil paints. I always finish with first coat of spray lacquer followed by three of four coats of Kylon clear acrylic spray. Sometimes I put no backer. Have used felt, holographic paper, and wood as backer. I make my own frames. When I am not going to use a backer I cut the slot in the frame more to the front to give the piece depth.
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What an exercise in turning corners! That zebra sure has a lot of zig-zags.
I have some fuzzies to deal with but, overall, I think the cutting went pretty well and I learned a lot. You really have to plan ahead so you don't end up with too much unsupported wood. I did have some chancy moments but I didn't break anything off which strikes me as a minor miracle. There's one spot that has me pretty worried about getting the fuzzies off.
But, I can see where it is sort of addicting. After I finished that, I cut the one with the plants and a couple of fish (also from Steve's catalog). Now I have twice as many fuzzies to deal with. I guess I will work on that tonight.
Give me a few days to get everything done and dried and assembled and, if I haven't destroyed them in the process, I'll post pics. Thanks again for all your advice!
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Love your candid post Becky. Now you see why we are all here. It is therapy for the addiction. LMAO :o :o :o
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i use 1/8 baltic birch and finish my portraits with polyurthane, i also use store bought frames and remove the glass, for the backing i use felt glued to black posterboard, then glue the portrait to the felt, and i use the backer that came with the frame which normally has a wall hanger.
i save the glass from all my frames and when i have a good amount of glass, i visit my local frame shop and trade em for a couple of nice frames.
i have also used frames from the dollar tree store and they were actually nicer than i thought they would be.
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Hey Becky, I make my own frames also which allows me to cut the rabbet as deep as I need for the thickness of the work piece and the backer board, which for me is usually 1/4".
I have read some scrollers use a small propane torch to remove the fuzzies, but I have not tried it, but sounds interesting.
Waiting for a picture!
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Hi Becky -
I use 1/8 BB to cut out the pattern and I stack cut 2 or 3. The stack cutting gives it strength and gives you some extra portraits to give away, sell or keep. I spray paint the backing, also 1/8 BB, with flat black paint. I don't use a glass or plexi frame, it just gets dusty or smudged, you can just dust off the piece as (if) needed. Also you don't get the glare from the glass.
If you use a store bought frame look for a portrait frame as opposed to a picture frame. The difference is the portraits are deeper and can handle both pieces of BB. I buy all my frames at Michaels, great selection and they often run good sales. Don't cut your wood until you have the frame (I learned that the hard way) :)
I use satin spray lacquer to finish most everything I make.
Barry
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I will try to respond but have a 3 yr old Weimariner trying to get on my lap. I just adopted him today.
I normally finish my pieces with spray laquer and have used felt in a color that fits the piece and have also raided my Mother's sewing room for fabric to use. I dab glue on the larger areas of the piece then stretch the fabric on.
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Congrats on your new pupply, Kepy! :)
I am delighted to report success with no damage during fuzzy removal. I didn't have Danish oil but I had some Tung Oil so I used that. It looks pretty good so far. I don't have a blow torch so that wasn't even an option. I just used my needle files and was very careful. I think/hope I got them all.
I also ran out to K-Mart to pick up some frames. Only $3.99 each but I think they will look OK. I tested them for size when I got home and there was no way another sheet of BB would fit in there so I headed out to JoAnn's to pick up some felt and scrapbooking paper to see what I liked best. Didn't buy either one. Well, I guess I bought scrapbooking paper which is where they had it but it was labeled "black suede". When I held it next to the paper and felt they looked charcoal gray at best. It won't reflect a bit. It's fuzzy like velvet - looks very rich. I think it'll look really nice. It's a little pricey at $1.99 a sheet but when you get such cheap frames, maybe it's OK to splurge a little on the backing. ;)
I'll look at them again tomorrow and decide if they want another go with the tung oil. If they still look good I will hit them with the lacquer. Pics should come soon. I hope you think I have been as successful as I do, lol. I'm not going to say they are perfect but I think they are certainly passable.
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Hey Becky, If you think it's good - it's probably a keeper. Congrats on your first portrait. Eager to see the finished project.
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I had a other obligations to occupy today and tonight we've got rain. :-\ Since I spray on lacquer in the garage so it doesn't stink up the house, I thought the humidity would be too high to spray them tonight. If the weather clears tomorrow, I hope to get them sprayed, backed and framed so I can take pics for you.
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There are often quite nice frames at thrift stores like Goodwill, Salvation Army, and others. They also may have cutting boards from exotic woods. Yard and estate sales may have frames. Have found some quite nice ornate wood frames with a deep rabbett for just a $ or 2. Just a thought.
If you cut 3 to 6 stacked copies of the same thing in BB 1/8" ply, some advocate spraying or treating with a sealer before cutting and some advocate treating after cutting. In any event, sanding sealer will stiffen the fibers. It is then much easier to get rid of the fuzzies and also to get a satin-smooth finish on your work. The sealer will raise whatever grain wants to raise and hold it while you sand it off to smooth, so finish coats will be easier.
Stack cutting also offers the opportunity to offer both Left and Right facing portraits. You can also experiment with colors and fabrics and stuff them in the frames for evaluation in a temporary mount.
Lots of possibilities here.
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I'll have to try the sanding sealer tip. I think the fuzzy elves brought new fuzzies overnight. I couldn't believe I did *that* bad of a job the first time but I guess I did.
But...I have pics.
Thanks again for the tips and advice you all shared with me.
.
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They look beautiful. It is a great learning experience. Keep enjoying the sawdust.
Ron
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Great job, Becky!
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Wonderful, Becky!!!
Now get yourself started on one of the 'photo sharing' sites and put them up so you have them where all the world can see.
I'm using the Google site...
http://picasaweb.google.com/grampedstl/GrayBeardSScrollProjects# (http://picasaweb.google.com/grampedstl/GrayBeardSScrollProjects#)
Looking very good, darlin'....
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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Awesome job, I like it. Thanks for posting your work. 8)
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very nice job. thanks for sharing with us.
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Those look great! Keep pressin' on. You have finished the hardest ones.
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Nice work Becky and those frames look very good. Thanks for sharing your work.
Barry
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Thanks, everyone. I think you could all tell before I posted the pics I was pretty excited by how well they came out. Not perfect but pretty good for a first try.
Thanks to all of you for your help and encouragement. I know I have avoided any number of failures thanks to the advice offered in this thread and others. You all do a great job of helping to flatten out the learning curve for us relative newbies (my saw will be a year old in December). I am very grateful for all your help.
I'll be making a few more of these for Christmas presents. The zebra will go to my little brother who was unjustly accused of being afraid of zebras when he was about five years old. His alleged fear of zebras has been an ongoing family joke for the past 40 years. It'll be perfect! ;D
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Becky. I'm going to try something like this for the first time. what I'm going to do is firefighters in action. We have a firefighter that also is the photographer for our job. He just gave me a dvd disc of photos that I can print off, & make patterns. I think these will make great projects, that I can donate to special functions that we do to raise money for charities. I have this idea to burn some of the wood to make it more realistic. I'll let you know how these turn out. Dave 8)
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Good luck with that, Rightarm! It sounds like a worthy project for sure. The woodburning idea sounds good too.
There's lots of good advice in this thread. I don't know how to make a pattern but it sounds like you do. I still find most portraits to be quite intimidating but these were fairly simple. I like to take my learning in small doses (and I did learn a lot from doing these). Good luck again. Please be sure to post pics!
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I'm going to give it a try. I've been playing around with making my own patterns. So far so good. I have looked everywhere for firefighters in action, and you just can't find them. You can find firetrucks & ambulances, stuff like that. Steve made a really cool pattern of 2 firefighters & a maltise cross that I made mini-clocks out of for a charitable golf outing for collage scholarships. And they where a big hit. I really want to make my own patterns of guys & gals on our job. I think it would mean more if the person that I did the project for , recognized theirselves, in I guess you would call it a marquetry style project. Well I guess I'll find out. Good luck on your project. Dave 8)
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Try using a bernzamatic to singe the edges of your cuttings. It works very well and adds a whole other dimension to your work. I've used it on fretwork and crosses. People seem to like it.
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I have been combining Pyrography with Scrolling for a few years now. It actually works well and looks great. If you need any help let me know. 8)
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What I have is the large hand held propane torch. I think I'll buy a smaller pencil type torch. Man, I hope I don't burn the garage down. I'd never hear the end of it! Dave :o
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hi rightarm,
I saw an article once that did woodburning with laying hot sand on the wood.
never did it myself.
I bought a small branding kit this vacation, but haven't used it jet.
(http://www.soldersite.com/hst/a08i10f/aif.nsf/0/968FA892620ACEADC1257508003C16CD/$FILE/W05%20blauw%207.jpg)