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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Danny on December 22, 2013, 04:22:14 pm
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This subject has come n gone, but I just had to say my feelings.
Have been Scrolling for 8 years. The Majority of them I followed
the methods proven by other members which is applying Painters Tape
to the Wood blank and using Spray Glue applied to the Top of the Painters Tape
and also to the bottom of the Pattern..........WELL....... I have been CONVERTED.
I experimented with ....White 8.5X11 sheets which has a Peel Off back and will
STICK to the Wood Blank PERFECTLY. I have successfully Completed DOZENS
of projects using this and all it takes to remove the Pattern is a little HEAT.
I use a cheap Heat Gun. Only takes MINUTES to take the pattern off.
When I think of all the MONEY I have spent on PAINTERS TAPE and SPRAY GLUE
it makes me feel ILL. LOL
I bought 250 sheets of the self stick sheets on EBAY for $15.00 Last Year.
Sorry for this being so lengthy, but I just had to say MY FEELINGS.... Danny :+}
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Interesting, may have to look into that! :)
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I had thought of that too, but since I stack cut a lot, I use the tape to hold the stacks together. I estimate the tape costs me 12 cents for an 8 x 10 portrait, but it sounds like the sheets you are talking about costs about 6 cents. Someone may want to check my math.
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hey Danny can you give us a link to be able to find it on ebay?
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Sounds like you found the method that you like the best, Danny, which is what we should all do
to help enjoy our hobbies.
I still like the blue painter's tape method for several reasons.
It does not require any heat or solvents to remove and can be bought really cheaply at
the dollar type stores. You can use just the amount that you need instead of cutting up your
8" x 11" sheets for small ornaments and such.
As already stated, we just have to find what appeals to us to make our hobby enjoyable to us.
God Bless! Spirithorse
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I use the full size sheets or print the pattern on normal paper, spray glue and attach, then cover with clear packing tape. I use the packing tape regardless. Use the full sheets whenever practical.
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I use Blue Painters tape, I buy the 2" wide roll for around $6.00, and it last for a while, comes off real easy. Now someone on another site uses green painters tape, and says it is good also, maybe some day I will give it a try. Just my opinion.
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Hi to ALL....You are right Spirithorse that we all need to use the method that we like the best.
Back last year I Swore that using Painters tape was the Only way to go. That was because I had been using it for many, many years. Using the adhesive backed paper was only a experiment. In fact I didn't like it at first and the batch of sheets I bought off Ebay sat in a cub-bard for a year. Tried it again 6 months ago and all worked Great and never looked back to the painters tape and spray glue.
Judy that was last year on buying this. No link I know of now. Sorry.... :+(
Oh well....Just another of my 2 cents.... Danny :+}
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Danny, do you print the patterns right on the sheet?
thanks, gramps
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I use spray glue to attach my patterns and then when I want to remove the pattern I stick the piece in my microwave for 10 seconds or so and the pattern peels right off. Use a little mineral spirits to remove any glue and I am good to go.
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Gramps....Yes Print the pattern on the sheets. Prints Great.
Chelclass....Tried the ZAPPER way a time or two. Wasn't impressed. And using the
Spirits to clean glue residue afterwards was for the Pits! Messy n Smelly. And sometimes
peeling the Blue Tape off from a 200 insides cuts was times taking and sometimes frustrating.
Nope I say again using these Adhesive back sheets is The way I shall go. With lightly applied heat the pattern will lift off mostly in one piece. NO GLUE RESIDUE left on the wood.
Well this be it for now.............Danny :+}
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There is a "delicate" version of the blue painters' tape. Ace hardware did have a purple one, but have seen it lately. It peels off easier. No heat or thinner necessary.
Pat B
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I found that the least expensive way for me to go is buying rolls of contact paper. I apply the contact paper to the entire piece of wood when I first buy the lumber, and then print whatever pattern I need on regular inexpensive printer paper. Spray on adhesive, and then packing tape. Removal is simply lift the corner, and remove the entire piece. NO residue, ever. I buy the 18 inch roll of clear contact paper, and cut as needed. I do mostly Intarsia, and since I cut pieces of the pattern apart to apply to different woods,I have found this to be the most economical, and easiest method for what I do. I have used it for fretwork, and I get the same result, quick and easy removal, with no residue.
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Now I sure feel that is a Super Inexpensive way to go. Never tried this method, but I shall soon.
Many of our members use the PACKING tape over the PATTERN which is another method I have tried and wasn't impressed with due to as I cut a fret SOME fine sawdust would get under the tape creating a visual problem for me. Anyway I have my way as everyone eles has theres.
Thanks for the TIP.....................................Danny :+}
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Hi Danny. I too find the fine sawdust that accumulates at the blade a royal pain. Are the sheets a particular brand? Do you do any more that wipe the wood to prep it before applying the pattern? Cheers, Barry.
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Hi Barry. I am glad at least one other person finds the Packing Tape to be like you said.
Don't know the brand right off hand, but when I worked as a PRINTER we printed labels on a brand named STARLINER for ever. Stationary stores do carry this.
I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT ....GREAT CUTTING AND SUPER HAPPY TIMES since I started using this method.
All I do is like normal. Sand the wood blank to 220. Basically wipe the dust off and apply the pattern. PIECE OF CAKE.... Danny :+}
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There are many sources online for LABELS that you can research for the 'full sheet labels'. They are most often 8 1/2 X 11 sheets and will go through the average printer/copier with no problems.
They also usually come in either glossy or matte finish.
Google...<labels, inkjet, full sheet>
~~~Graybeard~~~
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What is the purpose of the packing tape? I tried the contact paper method for the first time and it seems to be working great. Only next time I will use colored so won't miss any small bits as with the clear.
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Good :-) Morning Judy and All.... Have read MANY posts saying the Packing Tape is
there to LUBRICATE the blade. I just haven't ever got into a habit of using it for
various reasons. I don't have any problems with the way I do it, so....I HAPPY. :+}
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I wish you could but permanent templates when you order plans for things.
If you could just trace the templates onto the wood we wouldn't have to glue them.
Mine always slip when I use the spray adhesives and then you have to sand the glue residue off.
A mess!
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I have used the contact paper several times now and I think it is WONDERFUL! and cheap ;)
I lay my blank on the back side of the contact paper, cut around it with a craft knife.
Make sure the wood has no dust on it. I just wipe a couple of times with my hands.
then peel the backing off the contact paper and stick it to the wood blank.
I cut roughly around the pattern, put it in the waste basket upside down and spray it well with spray adhesive.
Take it out and stick it to the contact paper. Rub or roll it down well. I use a brayer.
So far, after cutting the pattern and contact paper come off in one piece.
I lay the cutting flat on a rubber mat and gently sand front and back.
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Hi Joe. Pleasure to meet yas.... You brought back memories of Long, Long Ago when I first started Scrolling. Didn't know any better and started off of applying a piece of Carbon paper on blank and pattern on that and being careful TRACING THE LINES OF THE PATTERN. Well the SIMPLE PATTERNS weren't much problem, but the more complicated ones just took WAY TO LONG. Graduated UP when I joined this FORUM. Read Judys method and I am for using the 8.5x11 sheets of Adheshive back paper which is sold at Staples or Office Depot or bought on the Web. Later.... Danny :+}
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Hi Danny and Judy,
Thanks for the tip(s).. I'll go buy some and give it a try.
I hate that spray glue.
What I meant before was I wish they sold pre-cut plastic or whatever templates
that you could re-use and simply trace onto your wood.
Wouldn't that be a lot better??
Anyhow I'll buy some label paper today.
Thanks
Joe
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I quit useing packing tape years ago and went to the Glad "Press and Seal" for about a year but now i just spray the back of my patterns with Loctite spray adhesive and it works great. I still use the clear tape to lube the blade but it also helps hold the paper together for them tight cuts.
sully
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Hi Danny. I'm a little thick at the best of times so bear with me. I purchased a small roll of scroll saw paper but am slightly mystified as to how to run it through the printer as it's sticky-one-side. I tried applying some wax paper on the back but the printer won't accept it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Barry.
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Closer inspection reveals that there is a thin protective layer over the adhesive back but as it's rolled over itself on the adhesive back it's quite sticky also, so much so it gums up the printer. I'll try and figure some way to use it. Thanks, Barry.
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I use clear tape over my patterns duck brand and smooth it out with the edge of an old credit card don't have trouble with sawdust under the tape
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I'll certainly give that a try. Sounds like an effective way of sealing the edges. Thank you, Barry.
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Has anyone tried this way (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbrOlc9-1Lk&list=PLdzTaS-wMaFfzEY42Xt6GWUi0_EAUKs7b)?
I have been really tempted to try it, since I do have access to a laser printer.
Edit: Forget it. I just did more research on Xylene and it's too toxic to use, IMO. What it does is move the toner ink from the laser printer to the wood, but the same can be done using a hot iron, since that's how laser printers transfer the toner anyway (via heat). So please, don't use Xylene. I'm leaving this post here for reference only. However, I think I'm going to try an iron this weekend! Stay tuned!
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Danny, Do you do any stack cutting? That is one of the main reasons I like tape is to hold the stack together. When I get some more air brads I will use them too. Also with the tape I can spray the glue on the pattern and right then apply it to the taped wood. Between the tape on tight and the sprayed pattern I never have a problem with sawdust.