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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: math2010 on January 30, 2013, 12:52:19 pm
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Hi,
I made a puzzle that I will paint with acrylic paint (non toxic). How can I finish it after. I cannot put bee wax i guess because the wood will be sealed?
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Won't the paint be your "finish"? I would think that Acrylic paint would be your final finish.
You could always go with food color, then shoot lacquer over it when dry.
Just my thoughts.
John
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You can clear coat over acrylic paints if you want. Just use thin coats, I suggest deft clear satin finish. I'm not partial to gloss finishes.
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If you are talking about a 3/4" puzzle, like a stand up puzzle, I still spray a clear coat over the paint. Do not spray in between the pieces. I use Howard's Feed N Wax on the cuts. It finishes them and gives them a nice "slideability". Makes them easier for small hands if it's a childrens puzzle.
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Have made many puzzles in my time. If painted I always was happy with the
shinny finish afterwards from the paints. Can see spraying Lacquer aftewards
for a harder finish.
Julief.... Never used or even heard of your procedures. Would LOVE to hear
more about ....Howards Feed n Wax....And how you use it. Yes?
Danny :+}
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Danny I did a Google search for Howards Feed and Wax and found hits from Amazon - Woodcraft and many in between. After just a quick glance it looks like a good product.
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Hey Danny, I learned the hard way that spraying even a light coat of polly in beween puzzle pieces adds just enough thickness to keep the pieces from sliding easily. (and it's a b**** to sand back off!) I found Howards Feed-N-Wax and use it for lots of things. I always use it for thick puzzle pieces. After I have finished the rest of the finish, ie. paint and spray the surface, I then put a liberal coat of Howards in between the pieces and let them sit about 20 minutes. Then wipe it off. It makes them slide soooo easy and brings out the grain in the wood. I also use it for the sides of drawers in boxes and anything I want to slide or come apart easy. You can use it on bare wood or finished. It will make the grain pop on bare wood but, over time, you have to reapply. I usually finish my pieces and then "polish" them with the Howards.
Howards is a combination of beeswax, carauba wax and orange oil. It smells good and will enhance any finish you desire. I've bought it in just about every hardware store (paint department) around. I also use it on my furniture periodically to deep clean and bring out the grains in my woods.
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Depends what blade you use. Puzzle blades make a great fitting puzzle. I use #1 blades to give me a tiny bit more space to apply a finish to the parts. But when I don't plan to finish the interior cuts, then I use the FD puzzle blades as the fit is much tighter.
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Hi IBM.... I have just about cut Everything (soft wood) with the UR#1 blade and
am very satisfied. You brought memories with TRYING to use Mikes PUZZLE
blades. Remember I didn't have much LUCK with using them. Still have some.
What is your procedures for using them? Thanks.... Danny :+}
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Lots of Praying, and a very, very slow hand cutting. They are challenging unless you are cutting very thin wood.
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That sounds Funny.... And thats what I remember about them. Breaking. They
are just to dang Skinny. Oh well my Puzzles look and work just fine with a UR#1.
Thank you Julief for your procedures. Sounds like a lot of extra work, but I can see
your point. Danny :+}
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Danny, I left that fact out, about FD Puzzle blades breaking too easily. I thought it was just me being too aggressive with them, but it sounds like you had the same experience.
John