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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: saggioculo on December 26, 2012, 10:56:22 pm
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I've heard some folks actually glue the paper pattern onto the wood and cut it out. Me...I trace the pattern/stencil onto the wood using carbon paper then do my cutting. This way I always have the stencil so I can make it again.
I recently started using transparency film...once I have the stencil on the film, I slide a piece of carbon paper between it and the wood. I have to press alittle harder, but it works just fine. The transparency film is much more durable then paper so it last longer and I don't have to worry about tearing the stencil while tracing with a sharp pencil.
I keep all my stencils that are on the transparency film in a binder, so I can show folks who might be interested in me making something for them...kind of like a portfolio.
What methods does everyone else use?
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If I am scrolling one piece of wood, I just spray the pattern with adhesive and apply the pattern to the wood. If I am stack scrolling, I cover the wood with blue painters tape and then attach the pattern with spray adhesive. I always keep an original hard copy on file and also on my computer and I also take a photo of the work and add to a "catalog" I have put together using a ring binder. I use the binder as a catalog of what I have made to sell. I also have a pattern catalog of potential scroll work.
Tony,aka,Toneman
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I used to trace in the old days when I didn't have a printer copier. Now I make a copy of the pattern and glue it directly to the wood using a spray adhesive. I don't like using blue painters tape under the pattern because it takes to much effort to remove, especially around small cut outs. If I'm cutting a wood that can burn, I will apply clear packing tape on top of the pattern. I can easily remove the pattern with a heat gun or a spray of mineral spirits.
For me, tracing takes to much time and effort.
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I'm with you Dan I use a glue stick as it is cheap and put clear tape over the pattern
Jimbo
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I'm with Jimbo on this, but tape under the pattern only.
***Merlin***
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I might need to reconsider my method. The carbon paper I use is 2' x 3' and is pretty costly. I use the large carbon paper because I do alot of lawn and garden decorations (which I can sell easier then my scroll projects) and I really need to save the pattern for future use. So, when I started doing scroll projects, I just kept using the carbon paper/ tracing method.
When I heard about gluing the stencil to the wood, I thought it must leave a residue on the wood when your finished. I guess that is not the case. Thanks for all the input!!
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I make copies of mine, I started a pattern file folder, any patterns I find and like and may want to cut out again I just print them back off or make another copy, or even scan them on to my computer with file names that will be easy to find. That way I have all the copies I need, might even try to have them laminated to protect them but even then if they start getting messed up just make a fresh copy.
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I find I use different attachment methods depending on the project; Blue tape, spray adhesive, glue sticks,clear tape, and combinations of them. My least favorite is stenciling. I've mostly used it for wood carving but find my re-drawing the line is not to good. [I never was good with cranes either] I do like using a very light spray adhesive coat followed by a long open drying time before applying the pattern - to the point that the pattern barely holds - then I cover with clear tape to help hold the pattern & lubricate the blade. Projects vary and I like to spend as little time as possible clean up. I have been disappointed with veneer pieces lifting off when I've first applied blue tape - it's to strong a hold or on to long a time -[hard wood veneers not B/B veneer].
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Mineral spirits takes off the pattern and any residue.
Barry
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Sometimes I use spray adhesive,but often I use full sheet adhesive labels. They come off easier than anything else I have used. Some say they are too expensive, but I find them worth the savings in time & effort. Besides, I recycle all the ink cartridges from my office through a store who gives rewards for them and that usually pays for my labels. The source that provides the ink cartridges does not have a means of returning them.
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I used to glue the pattern to the wood and add the clear tape over the top but tried the blue painter's tape and was quickly sold on that method. I still cut kind of slow - very slow compared to some of these folks who go full speed - and have never had trouble with burning. Don't know if it is the painters' tape or my saw speed (usually about 5 or 6 on my DeWalt). But that blue stuff peels off so much more easily than the glued pattern ever did! And it leaves little to no residue. It also eliminates the glare I would get from having the clear tape on top. Easier to see, easier to remover the pattern. It's all good with the blue painters' tape IMO. :)
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I used to trace my patterns onto the wood. I finally bought a decent printer and use spray adhesive. I keep some mineral spirits in a spray bottle. Spritz the piece when done cutting and it comes right off. I don't use tape unless I am cutting a wood that burns easily.
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I'm really new, and I only make things for myself/family so I can afford to splurge a bit, though given that this is a great deal for sticker paper I don't feel like I'm really splurging. I've been printing on sticker paper (which I already had because I use it with my printer & digital cutting machine for paper crafting) and smack the sticker right on the wood. It peels off fairly easy and I don't have to worry about spraying glue around (glue sticks didn't hold well enough for my liking). This is what I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Glossy-Inkjet-Photo-Sticker-Paper/dp/B000VKV2H4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1356746903&sr=8-4&keywords=sticker+paper oh and I print in red so I can see the line easier.
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I use blue painters tape on all my cuttings. As far as burning goes I use the right blade for the different types of wood. I also make sure I have a sharp blade in and that will stop the burning. And like flying Dutchman Mike will say. Let the blade do the cutting and do not force the wood into the blade.
gene
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I'm with the majority on this one. Tracing a pattern takes WAY TOO much time. Spray adhesive for me also, right to the wood and then a heat gun to remove.
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I use blue tape on all Fret work project's and Portraits. If it's just a Oval for a base for example I just use spray glue. If the stencil comes off in piece's about a 15 sec ride in the microwave and the stencil comes right off. I definitely use clear tape on hardwoods that burn easily, Maple, Walnut, etc.
Works for me.
Tommy T
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I use panters tape (blue and green), then glue stick, then pattern, then package tape. Works great for me.
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I put a layer of painters tape on the wood then use a glue stick to stick the pattern to the tape and a layer if clear packing tape over everything. I use a glue stick because I don't like having to go out in the cold to use spray glue, it is too smelly to do in the house.
I like this method because taking it off is fairly easy no matter how long I have been working on the project. I get sidetracked and sometimes it takes months to get back to a project.
I don't like mineral spirits, I am really sensitive to the stuff (one drop burns on my skin) so I usually just pick and peal the tape off. Sometimes I will use my hair dryer to heat it up a bit.
There are lots of ways to get the pattern on the wood. None of them are wrong, find one you like an go with it. If you feel like trying another method, go for it. The important thing is that you are happy with the process/results and that you have fun while scrolling.
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Oh do I for sure remember the good ole BEGINNING days with using that messy
Carbon Paper. Oh the memories of so much time trying to follow the cut lines
with that pencil. Bad memories. Use the painters tape n spray glue. Danny :+}