Scrollsaw Workshop Community -Please register to enable posting.
General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: northie66 on June 07, 2010, 09:28:02 pm
-
I'm sure there's info on using this on Steve's site... can someone point me to it?
-
Go to his site and search lemon oil. Something should come up. I think He did a vidio about it also.
Dan
-
Steve has two videos:
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=sdgood#p/u/135/ZjM6_3l_ApQ
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=sdgood#p/u/134/Dv4zGbYkSg4
I've also found that Orange Oil from General Finishes provides similar results as the Lemon Oil.
-
I'm really getting tired of spraying on a varnish. It doesn't look that good to me anyway. I wanted to try something new. Any other suggestions are welcome :)
-
Janet I use Min-Wax spray-on poly High gloss and have had good luck with it . Some don't like the high gloss , but you know you can step-it-down to semi-gloss or Stain finish also ..............
-
Unless someone requests different, I use Watco natural danish oil.
-
Hi Janet, I use Danish oil, works great and you can get it in different shades....Paul ;D
-
Janet. I use Old English Lemon Oil. I have a old 1 gal. ice cream pail. I just put the piece in the pail and soak it down with a rag I keep in the oil. I then take it out and let dry on paper towel. Dave 8)
-
Try drying on the painter's pyramids...It allows air to flow throughout the project for a better, faster, more even drying.
-
There are wipe on gels you can use. I think that would be a major pain with fretwork but it works great on relatively solid pieces. I've also used wipe on liquid polyurethane but it takes several coats and a lot of drying time between coats.
-
Janet -
I buy Old English Lemon Oil at Target. It is basically a furniture polish. It will dry away completely in a short while. You will still need to use some king of finish to seal your work. I use spray-on varnish, usually satin, because it dries so quickly. Poly takes a long time to dry and I am a bit impatient. There are oils such as Danish Oil that will seal when they dry, but it does take a while. You can aways leave things natural which I do with most toys and puzzles. The Lemon Oil will make it look nice and give you an idea how it will look finished, but it evaporates in a relatively short time, if left alone.
Barry
-
I use Lemon oil on most of my projects except ones that I paint. You do need to seal the Lemon Oil finish however. The oil will transfer to other surfaces if you don't.
Dan
-
The oil will transfer to other surfaces if you don't. Dan
I had not heard that before. I'll have to keep that in mind as I just picked up several bottles yesterday to try Steve's infamous finishing technique. Now I may have to re-think it. Tung oil once dried does not do that.
-
My 'finishing booth' is usually a cardboard box outside so I like using Deft lacquer, dries in 10 min. so it don't gather a lot of dust etc. and I can get a lot of coats in a short time. Gloss or satin.
I tried other bargin lacq. but they arent nearly as good as Deft. I buy it at Home Depot.
Gordon
-
Gordon...is the Deft Laq a spray can or liquid format?
Never use laq before but the ddrying time is right up my alley!
GrayBeard
-
Hey GrayBeard, I use Deft spray lacquer, and its great. Drys in five or ten minutes.
I prefer satin or Simi gloss.
-
Gordon...is the Deft Laq a spray can or liquid format?
Never use laq before but the ddrying time is right up my alley!
GrayBeard
Graybeard, it comes in both spray or liquid, but the spray is definitly more convenient. Lowe's typically carries it too. I've used it for several years for stuff that needs a protective coating.
Greg
-
Yep, Dgman and Joesawdust got it right, it does need a LOT of ventilation (no problem for me though)
Gordon
-
I picked upa can of semi-gloss this morning! Anxious to try it!
~~~GrayBeard~~~