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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: jimbo on June 01, 2010, 09:37:17 pm
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When sanding go through the grades and make sure the scratch marks are removed from the last grit, I have found for scroll work 220 is the highest grit I go depending on the timber, for turning up to 400 some go through to a 1000 for very fine work, for flat boards I finish with an ranom orbital sander and find 120 grit is fine as it leaves no sanding scratches.
What are your thoughts
Jimbo
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I use 120 grit on my random orbital sander for finishing. It has been all I have needed. 8)
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I agree with you jimbo. I always sand my stock to finish grit, usually 220 grit, before I scroll it. then when I'm done scrolling I touch up with 220 grit to get the fuzzies.
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I am with all you guys here. I do the same thing with 220 grit before cutting and 150 lastly. no marks.
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The random orbital sander is a great tool and they are getting cheaper, I have never sen a scratch mark after useing them, I also use it to finish my chopping boards
Jimbo
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I agree about the orbital sander. I would be lost without mine. Use it for finish sanding 90% of the time. :D
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220 grit is as fine as I usually go and the less hand sanding the better. I use an orbital sander as much as possible. I am also getting a sanding mop which I hope will help. (180grit from Rockler)
Barry
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I've heard the mops are very good, don't think we can get them here
Jimbo
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You can make your own sanding mop. It is not hard. Steve has the information on the blog. http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html (http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html) 8)
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;) I have four orbital sanders, for it is these that I use most. There was one I bought that is portable, then you can change the sandpaper as you want. The other three are the machines I've made and are set vertically on a table. It is dificil to change the sandpaper.
The second was the very coarse, in fact it is a disc thinning down to the metal. It serves me very often to side my wood, but never quite sure to sand.
The third has a grain of 120 for the first sanding of my large pieces.
The last was a 400 grain for finishing.
I have another machine that I lost to the rolls of fabric (I make myself) and that allows me to "wax" my pieces.
Of course I have other more or less sanders gander such as portable vibrating rectangular vibrating a portable triangular, a portable tape and a fixed vertical strip.
On other systems of hand sanding, which consist of sandpaper mounted on wood morceaus, more or less and with various different grains. As a kind of small nail so as to go grind in small corners.
For some sanding, I also use the "balls" of my manufacturing or roller sanding liked. ;)
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Jimbo you can make sanding mop real easy, I used 180 paper from mitre10 (orange color) and I just cut the pieces with scissors, just don't push to hard and it works a treat.
Merlin
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After seeing how easy it was on Steves Blog, I made one too. I save the discs from my orbital sander, cut slits in them and mixed in some 3M pads. Used a 1/4" bolt with a nut and washers. If the bolts threads get damaged by the drill chuck I just run a 1/4" die down the threads. Like you said Merlin, you just can't push real hard. 8)
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Thanks Russ I will look at what I can do tommorrow
Jimbo
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I went ahead and bought the 6 inch double sanding mop. It is the greatest thing since sliced bread. It did cost a LOT....$60+ with shipping and all. Never thought about making my own, will surely do my own refill when its time.
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I use mostly 220 grit, if I need to. I have been using the butane torch lately. I like to bring out some detail in the grain before I use Lemon Oil. Then use Laquire to finish it off. Dave 8)
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Do you use the torching for a chared effect? {ebonising]?
Jimbo