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Topics - Jim-78028

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1
General Scroll Saw Talk / felt ?
« on: April 07, 2016, 06:33:42 am »
So I tried my hand at a clock, pine on a cedar stand, with felt on the bottom.

Anyone got any tips on cutting felt in straight lines, and without any fuzzies??
I worked it out obviously, but there has to be an easier way.

2
General Scroll Saw Talk / foot switch
« on: March 30, 2016, 06:14:10 am »
So everyone talks about a foot sw, I figure what the hey, so I order one, I order an on/off sw since that is what I saw another post talk about making.

They send me the wrong one, it is momentary on.  Nothing ventured - so I try it .... I LIKE it!  Who would have thought.

3
General Scroll Saw Talk / Blade angle
« on: March 23, 2016, 05:44:37 am »
I See on the net most everyone says 90 degrees, left to right and front to back.
And then there are some that like a forward lean to the blade too.

So after finally modifying a real square to work in that small space, I find out that I have been working with a forward lean, not much but some.

Using credit cards, and blocks of wood just did not show the forward cant to the blade

Any reasons for one way or the other?  Or any reason why one is not the best choice even though it works?


4
General Scroll Saw Talk / ex-21 air bellows
« on: March 19, 2016, 06:19:06 am »
On my used 21 I picked up, the force of air coming out of the blower nozzle is (to me) lousy.  My starter saw, porter cable, the nozzle tip could be 2-2.5 inches away from the blade/wood and work to blow off the sawdust.

This ex-21 the nozzle has to be about one half inch away

How close to the work/blade do you  have to be where the nozzle is effective?  Do I need a new air pump (bellows) for the saw?

Thanks
Jim

5
General Scroll Saw Talk / Dipping & Spraying
« on: March 16, 2016, 08:51:18 am »
Not much I can contribute being so new to this, but I threw this together and thought I would share it.  The full project and the downloadable grid pdf is at
http://www.onsale-apparel.com/Scrolling/gimmick.html


Jim

6
General Scroll Saw Talk / EX-21 question
« on: March 12, 2016, 06:09:55 pm »
I picked up a used ex-21 yesterday. Finally figured out how to mount the blade.

When I run it, I get a tapping sound, narrowed it down to something called a lower blade guard not bent high enough.  I took the table off and bent it up, but usually when this type thing starts to happen the weak metal will make it droop and it will happen again.

So my question is, is the silly thing necessary?

I can not see where it does much of anything.  In the parts exploded view, Diagram A, Item 83

Thanks
Jim

7
General Scroll Saw Talk / Gotta love Craigs List
« on: March 11, 2016, 05:47:33 pm »
Craigs List San Antonio

Excalibur 21 with stand, $525, 2 years old

Drove over an hour there and back in this fricken rain storm to get it, but get it I did.

You folks that live in cities, sheez, what do you do release the inmates during rain storms and turn them loose in cars?

Now all I have to do figure it out and get used to it.

Yee Haw as we say here.

8
Brag Forum / Whiskers, feathers and a chop saw
« on: March 11, 2016, 05:38:49 pm »
MAKE you hold your breath!

Those of you that would be all relaxed cutting these are my hero's - ROFL

Cutting the flat on the base of the chunk of firewood with a chop saw was one of those should I or shouldn't I moments.

9
General Scroll Saw Talk / Glue options
« on: March 07, 2016, 01:50:54 pm »
When y'all have to glue some fretwork to a solid back piece, what do you use?

10
General Scroll Saw Talk / FD UR blades
« on: February 28, 2016, 07:14:45 am »
I've been using #5 and #7 FD-UR blades with success, then a pattern yesterday required the #3 blade.

The 5 and 7 blades pull to the right, I have grown used to it.  Surprise, the #3 pulls LEFT!

What the?  So I thought maybe I had it installed upside down, I swapped it end for end, and it still pulls left.

Has anyone else noticed this?  I this normal for the #3, or did I just get a weird batch?

And on that blade question of upside down or not.  Someone please definitively define the top of the blade please?  The site says they are marked, some have a very faint dot on the clamping part, others do not.  But all have a "ripple" on one end only.  So is the ripple the bottom or top?

Thanks
Jim

11
General Scroll Saw Talk / Fret work sanding
« on: February 02, 2016, 02:16:40 pm »
Ok I am stumped.   I have tried everything I can think of to sand a piece with fret work, fret work that has very narrow strips or stiles (if you are into windows).

I don't break all of them but one or two will break.

Suggestions, tips, please?

12
General Scroll Saw Talk / Where to cut first
« on: January 31, 2016, 05:23:04 am »
Curious whether everyone starts cutting the fret work and leaves the outside perimeter cut to the end, or visa versa?  Do you think it matters? Why?

This starter saw has a fixed upper arm, really limits things. The piece I am trying now is larger than anything I have done to date, and after fighting it yesterday it dawned on me (last night) that I ought to trim the waste off and then make the final outside cut later.  Then I started wondering why not just cut the perimeter now.

Jim

13
General Scroll Saw Talk / Blade clarification please
« on: January 21, 2016, 08:03:07 am »
I have a question regarding blades, I'd really like to hear from those who have used the different one's I am describing and their opinions concerning which is better or better for this kind of scrolling or whatever you think needs mentioning to help a newbie.

Flying Dutchman
Scroll reverse - two up teeth at the bottom
Double reverse - two sets of up teeth at the bottom
Ultra reverse - two down teeth one up tooth, repeating
2-way cut - appears to be the same as Ultra reverse to me, yet it is cheaper but tpi does change some

Thanks
Jim

14
Ask Steve a question. / newbie's starter project
« on: January 07, 2016, 06:39:25 am »
Steve
Santa brought me a scroll saw for Christmas and I got tired of cutting lines so I drew this up for her store, my first real project.  Any and all comments, criticisms, etc would be welcome.  Two layers of  1/8" plywood, different stain on each.

Looking at the silhouettes, the narrow part separating the body and arm with the purse - the one on the left survived, the one on the right broke.  How in the world do you manage to hold down slim pieces like that to avoid the saw from vibrating them and breaking them?

Do you soak or dip the finished piece in stain or do you stain it first?  I stained it first but the leaves the edges of the cutouts unstained.  Best option?

I obviously have a long way to go.  My biggest problem is focus.  When I use hand tools for furniture building, etc, I look where I want to cut, looking at the blade and line is against my habits I guess.  Any tips on re-learning that technique?

Thanks
Jim


15
General Scroll Saw Talk / wax and Tension
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:05:01 am »
Ok the first couple of what will be many newbie questions.  :)

1. Wandering around the net I see some recommending that the table top that the wood rests on be waxed.  What is the consensus? and if so what wax?

2. When the saw is not being used, should the blade tension be relaxed or does it matter?

TIA
Jim

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