General Category > Toy Makers
Gear Toy
Hawkdave:
Thanks Roger for posting the gear project.
I think this is on my list of things to make soon.
Also, thanks to Karl and CMHN for the links provided.
Dave
RickKr:
--- Quote from: Rapid Roger on October 04, 2015, 06:23:24 pm ---OK guys and gals,
I posted a picture of a gear toy that I made several years ago and "A" request was made for me to show greater detail of it. :o
...snip...
--- End quote ---
Roger,
Did you stack cut these gears? Hard to imagine cutting them individually.
Rick
RickKr:
--- Quote from: Rapid Roger on October 04, 2015, 06:23:24 pm ---OK guys and gals,
I posted a picture of a gear toy that I made several years ago and "A" request was made for me to show greater detail of it. :o
...snip...
It is in a WOOD magazine from November 2012 issue 215! (I told you it had been a few years) ;D
You may have to do some research to find the magazine though. Try friends that have been in woodworking for awhile or, the library or, write or call the magazine to see if you can get a back issue from November 2012.
...snip...
You are suppose to use 1/2" MDF according to the mag but, I used plywood of course. I also made more gears than you need to but, I over do everything (and I was making two of them)
...snip...
--- End quote ---
This one really caught my interest. I was looking for a horse pattern to make my granddaughter a birthday present and then I saw this. Totally shifted my plans and I have started on it.
I found the pattern article in Wood magazine using the information above, purchased and downloaded it.
I am using MDF board as in the original plans, but this was predicated on the need to make it in a week and I had the MDF, but not 1/2" baltic birch plywood. I had never scroll or band saw cut MDF. It cuts fairly easy, although I suspect it is hard on blades. I've spent the last two days figuring out how to make the gears quickly (stacking) and accurately. I made a jig for sanding them round that has positions for each diameter of gear blank. I am using my vertical mill with DRO to drill the pegboard holes rather than the printed patterns so the holes will match the PB perfectly (in theory at least). I'm also using those holes to peg several gears in stacks.
I tried using my scroll saw for cutting the tooth profiles but find it goes much faster and accurately on my band saw. I'm using a 1/8", 14 tpi blade with a Carter Band Saw Stabilizer which allows for as close to scroll saw function as I think is possible on a band saw.
Here are my first practice pieces. The partial large gear was done on the scroll saw. The small gear was done on the band saw. The band saw teeth are substantially superior, in my opinion.
With now less than a week to go, I opted to get a Lego kit for my granddaughter's birthday so I could work on the Gear Toy at a more reasonable pace and give it to her as a Christmas present.
More later,
Rick
RickKr:
--- Quote from: RickKr on November 28, 2018, 02:29:06 am ---...snip...
I am using my vertical mill with DRO to drill the pegboard holes rather than the printed patterns so the holes will match the PB perfectly (in theory at least). I'm also using those holes to peg several gears in stacks.
...snip...
--- End quote ---
My vertical mill with DRO, drilling the center holes. Note DRO is at 0,0. I had used a laser center-finder to line up the three peg holes and then centered the mill on the center pivot hole and zeroed the two axes, X and Y.
And drilling the peg holes, for both the pegboard but also for locking together stacked gears. Note the DROs show peg holes position. The peg holes are on 1" centers since that is the hole pattern of the pegboard. Each hole is exactly 1/2" off of the gear centerline in each axis direction, so running the DRO to 0.500" puts it right on spot.
Here are all of the stacked and pinned gear blanks. These were stacked in anticipation of scroll sawing, so the maximum height was 1.5". I ended up cutting them out on my bandsaw, so stacking could have been taller, except the internal cutout of the medium and large gears required maintaining the 1.5" max.
Rick
RickKr:
I cut the gear blank and gear base rough ODs on the bandsaw. Shown is the Carter Band Saw Stabilizer I mentioned earlier for blades under 1/4" which allows effective scroll-like cutting. It is a single, top guide, no bottom guides, which lets the blade twist a bit. Forward tension on the blade is created by pushing the single bearing guide forward, keeping the blade securing in the groove in the bearing when backing out of cuts. Makes if feasible to scroll cut tall pieces and stacks in surprisingly tight curves/turns.
No tight turns with these blanks, in either the OD or cutting out the teeth. Here I am using a 3/16" wide, 6tpi blade to cut the ODs.
Rick
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