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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: dgman on March 14, 2011, 12:33:23 am
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This is what works for me. It may not work for you. Try it, you may or may not like it.
I use mostly hardwoods for my scroll saw projects. I do not use stains as I like the natural look of the woods. Using an oil will bring out the color and grain of the wood. I use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I keep this mixture in an old glass mason jar. I use an old metal baking pan to soak the project in the oil.
Let soak for five to ten minutes. Using nitrile gloves, remove the piece from the oil, shake off the oil then wipe off the residual oil with a clean lint free rag. I use old tee shirts. Set the piece on an old baking cooling rack to let dry. For porous woods like red oak, check often and wipe off any oil that may seep out of the pours.
Depending on the humidity, let dry for three to five days.
After it is dry I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.
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Me Too!
And it works pretty well on BB plywood! Keeps it nice and bright to contrast with the backer!
~~~GB~~~
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Add a little something to the procedure, when it gets thru dripping, blow it off with an air compressor. Dries faster and the oil is out of the little holes..
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Thanks all of you for sharing how you have oiled your projects. I am trying that for the first time this weekend, and have set them on cardboard egg carton trays to dry. I was just wondering how long they needed to dry until spraying them with finish. Thanks.
Jim
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I only let the wood slip in my oil box for some seconds - I can't see any effort in letting it soak more. Hang it to drip and whip it clean after 10-15 minutes.
Comes nice and needs max. 1 day to dry.
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Okay Dan a question about this mixture.
What is the purpose of the 50/50 mixture? It seems to me the mineral oil just thins the BLO.
Actually two questions: How do you get the topcoat sprayed into the crevices of the cuts?
Here's the deal: The other day when I just top coated a candle tray with conversion varnish there were parts of the cuts which were not coated. I only put two coats on and dared not put more on due to too much coating on top. Does the soaking in 50/50 mix diminish this issue?
Tonight I just coated some sample pieces of wood with BLO only. I like the look of it and may use it straight. Should I reconsider and us a mix instead?
Karl
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Karl, The mineral spirits is used for two reasons. One, it thins the oil to allow the mixture to flow easier into and around the project and the fret holes. Second, It allows the oil to dry faster. When I used straight linseed oil, I would have to wait four to five days before the topcoat. Now that I use the mixture, I can topcoat the next day.
As far as the spray topcoat, it works best if you angle the spray so it sprays into the fret hole as it is coating the top. spray from all four sides. Once you have a couple of coats, turn it over and spray from the other side. This usually works foe me. Its best to spray two light coats rather then one heavy coats.
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Thanks for the reply and the information. I think I'll try a mix tomorrow night.
For my sample pieces I simply rubbed on some BLO and let it sit overnight. Since I'm not soaking it would I be able to topcoat the next day?
Karl
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Hey Karl, If you are just rubbing it on you should be able to topcoat the next day. Make sure you wipe off any residual oil, then let dry.