Blade selection

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What blade sizes would you suggest for a new intarsia artist?

I'm sold on Mike and the FD brand. Review of the blades and his customer service reputation have won me over.

Will be doing only intarsia for now. Plan on starting with pine, cedar (western red and aromatic), oak, and popular, because that's what I have on hand.

I'm working mostly on saw control so that's important. Have found Bruce Worthington's eBook and read it twenty times so far.

I'm looking at FDSR 3, and 5. Don't want to go big or aggressive yet. Will be ordering a gross so maybe some 7's in there. My thought is smaller is better.

I look forward to your input.

[Intarsia92]

Most of my Intarsias are made using various ?? thick soft and hard woods.  When using soft woods I normally use #5 or #7 blades and for hard woods my blades of choice are # 7 or #9.   I?ll only use a smaller size blade if I?m cutting a very small piece or when using thinner woods.

I use both Flying Dutchman and Olson PGT blades and like them both.
 
For someone starting out I would buy the Flying Dutchman-Scroll Reverse type blades. Their Ultra Reverse blades are excellent, however, you have use more pressure to hold down the work pieces because every third tooth, being reverse, will tend to pick the wood up, especially when cutting hard woods.
 
When buying Olson blades I only purchase their PGT blades which are Precision Ground. They are sharper and will last longer.

You mentioned in your post you thought smaller is better. I find I have better control with larger blades, smaller blades tend to wander more as I use them.   

My suggestion is to try different sizes and types and use whatever works best for you.

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Thanks Al.

Your work is beautiful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge here, hope I don't wear you out with questions.

My stock will be 3/4 as well, with a mix of hard and soft woods. The supply will be limited in type for now.

My thought was smaller blade, smaller kerf, better fit. Revisiting my strategy it makes sense to use a blade that will get the job done since pieces are cut separately from different stock kerf is a non issue.

Control is the order of the day and it seems bigger equals more control as well. Thanks again, putting my blade order together tonight for some FDSR's. Want to try the Precision ground Olsons as well but that will come later.

[ChuckD]

Remember one thing about intarsia.  According to a guy called Murphy, Two pieces are not going to fit no matter how good you follow the pattern.  That is what sanders are for.  However that does not mean you can't try.  When I first started i used a small blade thinking it would cut smoother.  It did but I still had to sand.  I still can cut parts that fit, but then the wood changes shape and it won't fit the next time I try to put it where it goes.  So use the bigger blades and get it cut out so you can sand it to fit.  (This was written with tongue very tightly pressed against cheek)  Good Luck

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Understood..

Worked by Govt standards for a period of time:
Measure With a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe
Find a way to make it fit.

I figure intarsia is right up my alley.

[Marcellarius]

Understood..

Worked by Govt standards for a period of time:
Measure With a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe
Find a way to make it fit.

LOL, if to remind that!

[Jim Finn]

I use FD Polar #5 and #7 blades to do intarsia. Not reverse blades.  I do mine with 3/8" thick wood and often stack cut them to get a perfect fit, so I am cutting a 3/4" total thickness.