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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: mainberg on January 20, 2014, 06:13:20 pm
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Am going to make Steve's little box, with the polymer clay in the frets. Haven't used it before, so wanted to test. Made a couple of frets in 1/4" maple. Warmed the clay, in my hands, filled, checking both sides, baked at 275? F for 15 minutes. The next day the clay slid right out.
I can't find Steve's original instructions for using it, and have done a general search for suggestions on Google. Nothing different.
Does the scrollsaw make the cuts too smooth? Can come up with a way to get it done, with a backing and glue. However, maybe I didn't do it right. Anyone?
Pat B
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Hi,
Go to: http://www.youtube.com/
Type in: "steve good polymer clay"
You will get a few sites to choose from that might be helpful. I did not view any of them myself.
jerry
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Everyone I have done had a backer ( I think it has to have one) and I had to pack it very very tight. Never had any fall out.
Here is the link on Youtube for Steve's video.
Polymer Clay Inlay Technique for Scroll Saw Projects (http://youtu.be/emcGkyx1svk)
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Did watch Steve's videos on using the clay, and the ones on InLace, too. So, plan to try again. Thank you.
Pat B
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This is a little old, but hoping someone will pick up the new post. On the video Steve talks about finishing with "#$%^%$@%--OIL" prior to lacquering, with my Aussie ears I can't make out the words. Can someone tell me what sort of oil Steve is talking about. Also do you Amercians mean real Lacquer when you talk about this, or Polyurethane varnish -- I ask because my research suggests that Lacquer will yellow sooner than PU varnish. Would love some advice or opinions.
Cheers from down under - the land of sun, sand, burnt brown land and every bity, stingy, thing known to mankind!! ??? 8)
Thanks
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All good guys,
founds another of Steve's video's detailing the oil -- it Lemon oil - never heard lemon said the way Steve does, but then I bet it would sound different if a Welshman, Yorkshire or Lancashire person said it too. LOL. Cheers from Queensland.
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Trop,
You need to know Lemon oil will never cure fully. That is why he uses a spray lacquer over the top of it. If you lay it atop a cloth you will see a stain in a matter of minutes. I stopped using it and went back to tung oil.
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Hi, does anybody know if the backing becomes unglued, after being in the oven at 275 F..??? And what type of glue is used? Thanks
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I wonder if 275 degrees isn't a bit high. The instructions on the FIMO clay says 230 degrees for 30 minutes. It also says not to exceed 265 or 30 minutes. Check the instructions on the brand clay you are using.
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Hi, does anybody know if the backing becomes unglued, after being in the oven at 275 F..??? And what type of glue is used? Thanks
Normally the backing is installed after the clay bakes. The clay needs to be firmly packed into the frets to the point of overpacking it. Once the clay has been set ( baked ) and cooled sand it flush, install the backing. Most wood glues will fail the adhesive test if heated that high. Glues like titebond II are created to work in normal temperature ranges. This is why the backing is installed after the baking generally.
DW