Picture on wood

[Russ C]

In the first video posted by Torsten, she first puts on Liquitex Gloss Gel Medium. After she removes the paper from the picture she applies Mod Podge Matte. Both can be found on the Internet.  

[geneVG]

Thanks Russ.

gene

[Barry]

Thanks Torsten - nice video.  That process could make some unique gifts from special pictures.  I go to Michael's a lot and will give it a try.  I also like videos that recommend or name a particular product.  Lots of folks won't mention a product because it is not fair to other similar products.  But when I am trying something for the first time it is nice to go shopping for a particular item.  Later I can substitute generic products if I want. 

Barry

[Gabby]

Decided not to put a second coat of paint and have it put together and drying.
I'll be able to tell y'all how it works out tomorrow evening my time (Pacific USA) keeping my fingers crossed!
Gabby

[TripleB]

I just tested the second video using the plastic sheet. I'm working on a pattern and thought I would try printing it directly to a test piece of wood. Once I mirrored the font and found the right piece of plastic to use and didn't move the plastic as I was applying it, the results came out ok. I just might try this on a real piece of wood to apply a pattern to, no more gluing, just throw some clear tape over the top and it's ready to cut.

I was also thinking this would be a great way to sign your work as well, just print out what you want to say and apply it to the back of your piece.

I really like this technique so far, I will play with it more to get better at it, but it does seem to have it's practical uses.

Thanks to both of you for putting these videos up.

Bob

[Gabby]

I tried that too, but the plastic I used caused the ink to bead up and the transfer came out patchy. I just tried it on some card stock to see what it would do. I did it twice with 2 different ink settings, high quality and medium. The medium worked better. It wasn't near as nice as what you have though. I did notice what looked like a skipped spot on the right horse.
More experimentation is called for I think.
What sort of plastic did you use? The stuff I had was pretty flexible so I used a glue stick and stuck it to a sheet of card stock so it would go through the printer. Worked OK.
Gabby

[tux_linux]

To get this straight:

- glue the photo to the wood
- make the paper back of the photo wet and rub it off
- seal the photo

I think that's what she does basically. It's not about the glue or the sealant, also these should not void the photo.

The other photo-transfer technique is also interesting - let's see if we can push some limits!

[Gabby]

Once you start looking there are a lot of different techniques, even one for lazer printed pictures.
And they use these techniques to transfer to all sorts of materials. Tile, canvas, wood, t-shirts.
You name it!
Gabby

[TripleB]

Gabby, I had an issue using a plastic sheet that was a little too flexible jamming in my printer. I ended up using the plastic cover of those cheap presentation folder that you can get just about anywhere for about 50 cents, it seemed to work well. mine didn't come out perfect, it is kinda splotchy, but for cutting a pattern it is fine.

Probably going to experiment a little more today, might even use some colors this time. I'm looking forward to see how yours come out.

Update: Just did another one with the plastic sheet, here are a few things I discovered while doing it.

1. Sand Sand Sand!! As usual lots of sanding involved. I sanded down to 220 on a piece of 1/8" Baltic Birch, probably should have gone to 320 or higher.

2. Before putting the plastic to the wood, put a piece of tape on one side to aid in wiggle prevention while putting it down. The tape also allows you to pick the pattern back up for inspection while keeping the same orientation.

3. DO NOT RUB! the plastic, it will smear the ink all over your wood. put the pattern down and try setting a soft cover book over the top of if for 5-10 mins to allow the ink to absorb into the wood. After lifting the plastic up and you still have weak spots, then just gently press on the plastic in the spots that the ink did not absorb, again do not rub the plastic.

These are just my preliminary findings after a couple attempts, I would love to see what others have come up with to refine this process.

This pic came out ok, but still has some bad spots, I think better sanding would have helped. I'm really curious if using the other method has better results.

[slowcutter]

Every thing I read says laser jet printer.
looks like some of us are out of luck.
JP

[Gabby]

OK it's update time:
The transfer using "Do it" brand white siliconized acrylic latex tub seal left a lot to be desired.
Cure time allowed was more than the 24 hours called for in the video. I had prepainted the Masonite with exterior latex paint, and allowed to dry over night. The method called for spreading the caulk evenly on the face of the picture then working from the center out to prevent air pockets, after that burnished with a serving spoon. Tonight I started from one end with some water on my fingers and rubbing the paper, the printer paper almost dissolved but took some work to get it all off, it kept pilling up but I did get some of it to roll off. Most of the ink came off with the paper, and now my fingers are dark purple from the blue border and the red letters. If I got too aggressive rubbing off the paper the caulk started coming off the board as well.
Altogether not a satisfying experience. I'll have to try something else this product didn't do the job, didn't bother to take a photo of it.
_________________________________________________________________________________________
 The results of printing on the plastic and transferring to card stock fared better while still not exactly what I'm looking for. I did hand rub both images to assure full contact.
I'll post the results picture in the GALLERY so it isn't too small to see the detail. I don't know how to put a large photo here. By the time I get it sized to meet the requirements detail is lost.
Just so you know what to look for, it's 2 views of a revolver one right side up, the other inverted.
Give me a few minutes to get it uploaded.
I hope this is helpful.
Gabby
OK it's up in the gallery.

[Gabby]

After thinking about it I may try it again but this time sand the painted surface first to help it bind to the surface better. If I do I'll post another update. This is the method I tried.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB5tIq8CHP8&feature=related
Gabby

[Gabby]

After watching his video one more time, I'm going to try it on Glossy Photo paper to see if the glossy part acts as a barrier to protect the ink and make the paper come off easier too. Results tomorrow.

Er, maybe a little later than that. The house paint I used will take longer than that to dry. LOL
Went back and thought I could just scrub the caulk off the Masonite, WRONG now that it has dried no budging it, hardly dented it with a razor scraper. So I'll start from scratch tomorrow but I'm going to cheat and get some quick drying spray paint. I want to make sure the backer color doesn't show through.
I'm hoping the glossy paper makes a barier between the paper and the image.
Duh I already said that. LOL 
Keeping my fingers crossed.
Gabby

[Rapid Roger]

Gabby,
I'm not sure (I haven't tried it yet) but, I think your problem is painting the wood first. The paint doesn't let the ink of the picture soak in the pores of the wood and dry.
In the second video the guy says to sand the wood as smooth as you can before transferring the image but, nothing about sealing the wood first. Please try an image on just plain old sanded wood without paint or sealer of any kind.

Rog

[Russ C]

Gabby,
I agree with Roger. The second thing I read you are doing is using Masonite, wood chips/saw dust with an adhesive binder. This will also help prevent the ink from soaking into the wood. You need to used just plain old wood to make it work the way they are doing it. They acrylic medium just helps in the transfer.