Messages

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Can you transport a scrollsaw laying on it's side?

« on: June 07, 2019, 11:11:02 am »

Thanks for the suggestion, but I have a set of those and don't care for them as well as the ones that came on the saw.  The real problem was the 6 hours a day to keep up with orders.  I dropped all but 3 clients, out of more than 200, so that pretty much took care  of the problem!  Now I'm mostly cutting things just for me, or gifts.  After selling around 6000 ornaments and 9300 wine glass caddies, it's nice to be "cutting back".

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: listening to music

« on: May 23, 2019, 07:51:41 pm »

I spend so much time in the shop that I decided to put the CD carousel out there.  Now I have 200 CD's available by just dialing up the number....kind of like a juke box.  Nothing like some Chopin while working!
Nancy

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Can you transport a scrollsaw laying on it's side?

« on: April 30, 2019, 07:53:05 pm »

You can never have too much of a good thing!  I have one Type 1 that I purchased new, and 2 others, barely used,  from friends that thought they would use them but didn't.  I've always preferred the DeWalt, but purchased the Jet because my thumb and forefinger were getting SO sore from twisting that thumb screw to tighten the blade.  If you do 5-6 hours a day of detailed fretwork, it gets to be a pain.  The lever on the Jet tightens and tensions all in one.

Now I've pretty much retired from production work and wasn't using the Jet, so might as well get part of my money back.

The show went well and was quite relaxing, since all I did for 2 days was scroll and visit with people! I didn't take any items for sale this year.  The group I belong to....Northwest Corner Woodworkers Association...was part of the event called WoodFest that promotes the woodworking efforts of several area high school shop classes.
Nancy 

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Can you transport a scrollsaw laying on it's side?

« on: April 29, 2019, 02:22:41 pm »

I decided it wasn't worth possibly damaging the saw, so took it off the stand.  Ended up selling it at the show, so didn't have to worry about transporting it back home!  Now I just have the 3 DeWalts.

The Jet was a great saw, but I learned on a DeWalt, and it's still my favorite.  I'm a top feeder, which you can't do on the Jet, and I just never made the transition.  Plus, for the least vibration of any saw I've tried...and I've tried MANY....I just couldn't beat the DeWalt.

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Can you transport a scrollsaw laying on it's side?

« on: April 20, 2019, 11:29:40 am »

Guess I'll just quit trying to be lazy and take it off the stand.  If my van was only 3 inches higher inside, it would stand up and just need strapped to the side.  Oh well, this is why I've cut down to one wood show a year.  This year will be purely demo, with no sales, so that's a LOT of extra stuff I don't have to haul around.
Nancy

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Can you transport a scrollsaw laying on it's side?

« on: April 19, 2019, 05:51:58 pm »

I need to take my Jet saw to a woodworking show for a 2 day demo and don't really want to have to take it off the stand.  Does anyone know if it can be safely transported laying on it's side?  The left side, since the motor is on the right side.  I'd have it blocked up so it doesn't move, and some tension on the blade to keep the arm still.   Maybe it would just be easier to take it off, but then I have to re-assemble it there, and repeat the whole process to bring it home.

Just wondering if anyone has tried this.  I actually tried to call Ray at Seyco, but just got the machine.  If no one here has any thoughts that will help, I may try Ray again later, as the show isn't until next weekend.
Thanks a bunch,
Nancy

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Blade clamp replacements

« on: April 08, 2019, 07:30:06 pm »

In Steve's newsletter today he compared prices for blade clamp replacements, and shipping, from a few sources.  Many of you know, but some may not, that the set screw and the removable tip in the clamps can be purchased from Seyco for $6.30 for a set of 2 of each.  You usually don't need to replace the whole clamp, just these two parts that actually contact the blade.

The ones for the Seyco and Excalibur saws work just fine with the DeWalt, so probably would also with the Delta.  Not sure about any of the others, as I don't know if they have the thumb screw with a removable tip. Hope this might help someone.

8

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Wood for Christmas Ornaments

« on: October 12, 2018, 11:26:01 pm »

I get mine from an  aircraft supply company, and it's 3 ply.  Also comes in 1/32", but that's just too thin for me.  Some clients called it dainty, but others called it flimsy.  I like the 1/16" 'cause it's sturdy enough, but still light enough to tie on a gift, or enclose in a hand-delivered card.

It's available in lots of sizes, and shipping isn't too bad.  I buy it in 12 X 24 inch sheets, and then cut those down to 4X8" pieces which can hold 2 ornaments each.

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Wood for Christmas Ornaments

« on: October 11, 2018, 10:47:28 pm »

I've been cutting ornaments for 12 years and use 2 thicknesses.  In hardwoods, it's always 1/4" and for the baltic birch plywood my clients prefer 1/16".  I can cut 10 at a time in that thickness, but really prefer just 5 or 6 so I can use a #1 blade.

 My new favorite blades are the Pegas modified geometry, but I only use the #1, because they are basically the same as Olson Mach blades, and I still have a ton of those in sizes 3,5 and 7.  Really only use the #3.  If they made a size #1, I'd have never found the Pegas.  These blades leave the back TOTALLY smooth, with no sanding required.  Now I don't know what to do with all the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1's that I have left.  Don't care to use them because of all the sanding required on the back.

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Introduce Yourself. / Re: Ya, Another Texas guy :)

« on: June 10, 2018, 07:17:14 pm »

Welcome Rob,

You'll find plenty of suggestions and help on this site.  You didn't say what type of blades you ordered, but pretty much anything out there will beat what you find at Home Depot!  My "go to blade" is the  Olson Mach #3 blades, unless I need a size 1, then I go to the Sharktooth Ultra Reverse, from Scroller, and really like those.  They look just like the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse, but they leave the back of the wood cleaner.  There's so many out there, you just have to find what suits you.  Don't be surprised if you like one blade for some woods and patterns, and another kind for something else.
Nancy from Washington state

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Finger Numbness

« on: May 30, 2018, 08:24:57 pm »

You should pay close attention to which fingers feel tingly, and if it's the thumb, index finger and middle finger, those are the signs of carpal tunnel syndrome.  The ring finger and little finger generally don't have the problem.  The surgery is no big deal...I've had it done on both hands.  Just make sure you have a GOOD hand surgeon who's done plenty of them.

Good luck, and I hope it gets better on it's own.
Nancy

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Foot switch

« on: May 29, 2018, 10:39:04 am »

Just to clarify, I never have to hunt for the footswitch to turn it off, 'cause unless it's a long cut, I just keep the heel on the floor, and the toes resting lightly on the switch, much as a pianist keeps the right foot on the damper pedal at all times.  Maybe so many years of playing piano is where I developed that habit.  The foot is in position, I just don't have to actually hold it down the whole time.

Also, I learned early on that it's a pain to have to chase the switch around, so it's screwed into the wooden floor of my shop.  When I do demos at wood shows, some 2 sided tape will also do the trick.

 I wouldn't use my kind on the band saw, table saw, router, jointer or planer, but the scroll saw is about the safest tool I own.

I'm not knocking those who use the deadman, just thought it was strange that Steve would clearly state that "you don't want the other kind", when many of us use and prefer them.

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Foot switch

« on: May 28, 2018, 09:03:32 pm »

A few days ago Steve posted that he always uses a foot switch with the scroll saw, which I think a lot of us do.  However, he said we need to use the deadman type, instead of the other kind.  That kind stays on when you step on it, and only goes off when you step on it again.  It's nice to be able to put your foot flat on the floor and stay more balanced, especially when you are making a long cut, such as the outside  cut of a large, elaborate fretwork cross, which can take a long time to cut.

I know 5 other scrollers, and between the 6 of us, only 2 prefer the deadman.  We've all tried both type.  I don't have a problem with Steve saying that he likes one better than the other, but it seems a bit dictatorial to state that we "don't want the other kind".

Just my 2 cents, which may not even be worth that!

14

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Padauk - does this work well for scroll sawing?

« on: May 10, 2018, 01:48:48 pm »

I use it quite often as it's easy to cut and finishes well.  It does have a tendency to warp and cup more than many woods.  Also, that pretty color will not stay that way over time, but will become much more brown.  I don't use packing tape at all, and have never had any problems with tearout.  I use either a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1 or an Olson Mach 3...and make sure it's nice and sharp.

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Best Blade for Cutting Balsa and Thin Ply

« on: December 22, 2017, 11:41:03 pm »

I'm currently cutting a bird cage out of 1/8" baltic birch plywood and have been trying lots of different blades.  By far the best one I've come across is the Flying Dutchman two way cut.  The picture looks just like their ultra reverse, but it cuts completely different.  Slower for one thing, so it's easier to make tiny cuts, and WAY better on small round outside curves.  Plus, when they get dull, you can just turn them over and use the other side.....with thin wood like you and I are using.  Much like the Olson crown tooth blades.  They are also quite a lot cheaper than the ultra reverse.  I just ordered 6 gross, so they've sure won me over.

This blade also works well for some of the 1/4" hardwoods I use.  Things like walnut, cherry, padauk and sapelle are fine, but the really hard ones like ipe, jatoba, bubinga it can't manage.  Maybe a larger size....I neglected to say that I'm using the #1.  Hope this helps.
Nancy