Portrait help

[Raptor66]

I am cutting my first portrait and it's going pretty well.  I am using 1/8 BB stacked 3 deep on 8 1/2 x 11 boards.  The pattern is 6 3/4 x 8 1/2.  I am 1/2 way through the portrait.

I have a few questions: 

Do I need to cut the boards down to 8x10 for framing?  Or is that even possible?

Do I glue the backer board to the portrait?  I'm using 1/8 BB.

Should I use glass in front?

How do you cut grooves in the frame to accommodate all?

What's the best way to finish the BB and what backer should I use?

I've never done a portrait and want to do a good job.  It's a portrait of an 18 year
old boy that died in a car wreck.  His parents are friends of ours.  Charlie Dearing made the pattern for me.

Thanks for help in advance,

Chris

[dgman]

Hey Chris, Do you have a table saw? You should of cut it to size before you started cutting it. But if your careful, you can cut it down to size after your done cutting the inside cuts. If you don't have a table saw, Use a straight edge and a pencil and draw the lines of the size you need, then cut it with the scroll saw.
A lot of folks use felt or Velvet between the portrait and backer board. Some use felt or colored paper. I use either stained BB or  stained Oak plywood. I like the look of wood as a backer. I make my own frames. Cut on a table saw and then use a dado blade to make the rabbet.  I do glue the portrait to the frame and the backer to the portrait and the frame. I assume that most folks buy frames and use the backer that comes with the frame. I do not use glass. I think the portrait looks better without the glare of the glass.
This is how I do it.!

[newfie]

Dan pretty much said it all. but use a router table setup to cut the notches for the portrait to fit in aqnd i do use glass,keeps the dust etc out portraits are hard to clean, and it also keeps busy fingers from picking at it as well.

[Russ C]

I agree with Dan, you should of cut it to size before you started cutting it. Now you will have to be careful not to make designer fire wood. I make my own frames to. Basically the same way Dan does. I use a shaper to add detail to the front of the frame. I also glue the portrait to the frame and the backer to the portrait and the frame. I use a wide variety of backers including painting them sometimes. It depends on the effect I am looking for. Also I have tried a new anti glare plexiglass on a few projects and really like it. You can't hardly tell it is there.       

[Al W]

Another vote for pre-cutting the plywood to size.  It is possible to cut it afterwards, but much easier and safer for the scrollwork to cut to size first.

I also enjoy the look without glass.  Just an opinion.

[Raptor66]

Yes, I have a table saw.  I think I messed up because I didn't cut the board to size before starting my cuts.  I'm about 100 cuts into the portrait.  I'll have to carefully cut it after I'm done I guess.

[slowcutter]

With 1/8 " I would use a strait edge & a sharp knife
JP

[GrayBeard]

With 1/8 " I would use a strait edge & a sharp knife
JP

AND CLAMP it down well while trimming!

[mrsn]

Just to be difficult  I almost never cut to exactly 8x10 before cutting the portrait. I like to use a store bought frame with a mat around the portrait. Below is an example of a picture I did of my son (thanks Grandpa for the pattern, again) When I know I am going to mat the portrait I leave the piece big(or think I might) I leave it a few inches big, then use some hot glue or double stick tape to stick the mat to the wood. Leaving it big lets me center the piece just right, sometimes after the fact I think something would look a little better with more wood above or below the cutting to add depth. I usually cut my portraits to finish size with a band saw after I cut the portrait.

I find lots of frames at the craft stores that look really nice and they often have clearance sales or 50% off deals, so they can be a great deal. Michael's will often give you a 40% off coupon with your receipt and frequently in the Sunday adds. I have a stock of 11x20 frames that mats a 8x10 cutting really nice.

I like using glass with portraits because I hate dusting. All of those little cuts are dust magnets! Depending on the backer they can also be a bear to try to clean. With simpler designs or all wood pieces I will go with out glass, because I really like the look of no glass (I just hate cleaning it)

Lately I have been using either felt (in black or charcoal grey) or stained wood as my backer material. Some portraits really need the contrast of having a black background to make the image pop.
Felt fits a little better in store bought frames. I use hot glue to stick the felt to the wood and use the stiff cardboard that came with the frame to keep everything in the frame. If I use a wood backer in a store frame with glass I tend to run out of room so I just use nails/staples/glue to keep the piece in the frame.

If you want to cheat a little in making your own frame. The big box stores have "picture frame molding" in with all the trim pieces. You can buy an 8 or 10 foot piece and then you have a "pretty" profile. I have a really cheap router at home and it isn't quite up to the challenge of making pretty frame pieces. I also don't want to invest tons of cash into router bits for a really cheap router.

I finish the back of my frame with a piece of craft paper (slightly nicer then paper grocery bags) I use hot glue, nice and smooth around the edges to smooth it down and keep it tight. A slightly moist rag wiped over the back takes out a few wrinkles. The results is a really professional look on the back side. I can't find a picture, but I can explain that better if you are interested

Lately I have been signing and dating the front of my portraits with pencil before I spray a finish on them. I like the results, visible but not distracting from the overall image.

Let me know if I can help
Katie

[J,Hamilton]

Another method to cutting after is to build or buy a table sled. This will help allow your work to rest on a more secure surface and keep it from catching slight imperfections or the edge of the table with the fretwork. another advantage is it is a zero clearance insert also. Tiny parts can be cut without falling through the table. Just be sure it is set to square or have it be adjustable for multiple angles to expand the possibilities for this jig.   

[ChuckD]

I agree with mrsn.  I do "all" my portraits that way.  Also the matting gives the finished piece a Professional look that we all try for.  If you don't have a mat cutter get it on your "want list".  If you cut portraits matting is a nice addition.   Of course mats are not free but if you sell it is worth more.

[Raptor66]

Here's the finished portrait.

Chris

[J,Hamilton]

Nice work. All paid off in the end.

[Al W]

Very nicely done.