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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: northie66 on July 11, 2010, 06:19:04 pm
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Could someone give me the pros and cons between these 2 woods?
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i much prefer poplar. I can't seem to find any good pine around my area. Pine seems to cut easier than poplar but poplar has nice grain and finishes great. I have cut all of my recent projects from poplar. Pine is usually alot cheaper but you get what you pay for. I'm not an expert by far but thats my 2 cents. Mike
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Ok polar? I am thinking you mean Poplar,(woody plants of the genus Populus, species include poplar, aspen, and cottonwood) ?.?.? ???
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Hey Janet, I cut a lot of pine for Ladies who teach tole painting. Pine is fine if your are painting your projects as you do. It is softer than poplar, but can have rough edges, which may mean more sanding. Pine is cheaper than poplar also. Pine does have a lot of knots and sap and can warp if is to moist. Poplar has a finer grain that wont show through your paint.
So if your looking for a less expensive wood, go ahead and try some pine.
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I agree with what has been said. I also find that Poplar has a tighter grain more suited fro painting than Pine. I do not have the problem of the wood taking charge of where the blade goes using poplar.
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Yeah... I meant poplar... typo there. Thanks for the input!
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I get some really nice pieces of Pine at my Menards and Lowes. I have used it for MANY projects. Poplar has been a good wood for me too. The Pine I get is knot free, nice and square...I just need to spend time looking for the non-warped and non-cupped pieces...once I get them home they seem to stay nice and straight.
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You should be able to get A grade pine whith out knots but you pay more for it, best thing is to pick your own out when buying
Jimbo
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I dont use much pine, but I have found some nice pine boards at the local big box store. I dont buy the grade A boards because they are too expensive. I find a nice piece with like one knot and cut around the know. I got a 1x6x48 for a couple of bucks that had one knot in the middle, cut it out on my miter saw and ended up with two nice pieces of pine.
My wife bought me some nice 3/8 pine that is grade A and I dont even want to know how much she paid for it. She got it at the local big box store. I will use it for making her something special.
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There is not to much more to say about the pine and poplar. I agree with SP_343 if you go to Lowes, Home Depot, Menards etc. Look over the woods carefully, pay close attention to the end grain of the wood, look for the growth rings to be as straight up and down as you can find, this is your most stable wood. I think these stores buy in such bulk they don't even know what they have on the shelf. I once found a curly Mahogany board for the price of regular Mahogany, I have found Birds eye maple in with regular Maple. You have to be willing to take the time and look, but treasure is out there. Mark
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I use some pine, but I prefer poplar if it is for something I want to last. Poplar is harder. It also has less tear-out if you are going to rout the edges or anything like that. Other than the cost difference, the only disadvantage to poplar for me is that it is difficult to stain evenly. It is one wood that is better to use a poly with the stain built in rather than try to stain and then finish.
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If you can find a lumber yard that carries Eastern white pine, you will like the wood. Cuts and finishes great. The white wood at the box stores is something else again. Poplar cuts nice but be careful if it has a greenish cast as will finish funny.
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Learning new things all the time. Intressting to see what all of you have to say.
David
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If you are going to stain pine or poplar or any wood with open grain, start with a coat of #1 cut shellac first. If you buy shellac at the big box store (like I do) cut it 50/50 with alchol and brush or wipe on a coat before staining. Let it dry first, it evaporates very fast and you won't loose much time but, it will fill the pores in the grain and make the stain much more even.
Just another hint from one who is still guessing. ;D
Rog
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Shellac...2 comments
1. Why is shellac so darned expensive?
2. As a boy I remember my dad using shellac all the time. Then it seems everybody tried to come up with something better. I think his use of it so often is what brought about my appreciation of the smell of alcohol. One of the best and most popular cleaning agents there is.
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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I cut all the Arrow Head Ornaments from poplar that I purchase from Lowes. As Kepy says, you have to watch since there are pieces with green in it. Depending on what your gonna cut, avoid the green. Yes it adds a nice contrast, but I don't need it. I have not had a problem finishing the ornaments with poly. I dip them in it and then hang them to dry for awhile. This way it puts a thicker coat and makes the ornaments a bit more sturdy.
Just my thoughts.
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Shellac has a fairly short shelf life. Most people who do alot of wood working mix their own using 'shellac flakes' and mix only as much as is needed. I just bought a quart today...$9.98 at Lowes.
If you look up how shellac is made and what it is made from, you will understand why the prices are what they are. It has beetle dropings from South America as a base, yet when cured it is food safe (?) and elimnates any odors that might be in the wood. It can be tinted (in fact there are three colors on the shelf at Lowes) I like the clear for most things but, you can use amber or blonde also. There is some called "Seal coat" also.
It looks fine as a finish or it can be painted over or even just as a sealer for polyurethane.
Clean up can be done with house hold ammonia and water or denatured alcohol and it dries to touch in 30 minutets and can be recoated in an hour or so.
More mis-information from the guesser.
Rog
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Maybe I should dip. I use spray polyurethane... but it's never as shiny as I want it to be. And yes, I use the "gloss" type. ;)
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That is why I dip my ornaments Janet. I also use the spray for certain items, but the ornaments, no. I learned to dip them, but if you want all your holes cleared, get a can or air, or I use the air hook up I Jaun set up for me to blow sawdust off the table and projects, to blow the poly from the holes. Let me know how it works for ya.
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cherie... after you dip it do you like shake it off? how to you put it to dry if it's all wet?
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I have a thing that Jaun made me to hang them from. Usually takes over night to dry. Like I said before, to get some of the poly from the holes, blow them out. Speaking of, I have to find the darned thing.