blade getting dull

[saw dust john]

I thought if I reference something some of you are familar with --it might help narrow down the answer.

I made steve's small tray puzzle the other day (thanks for the pattern, steve)

I used 3/4 hard wood-maple-mahongy.

I used Mike's blades, the Flying Dutchman - New Heavy Duty

anyway, being new I have trouble knowing when to change blades.

I used 2 blades to cut this puzzle out--using a fast speed on my Dewalt.

does that sound about right.--notice a better cut once I changed blades.

TIA

[Ablade]

John, I tell people that when you start pushing the wood into the blade instead of guiding the wood into the blade, it is time to change blades.  You felt the difference when you put in a new blade so you will be able to get to the point that you will feel when a blade is getting dull.  Blades are cheap.  Don't be afraid to chance them.  You are doing fine.

[dgman]

John, I tell my students that when the blade no longer does what you want it to, It's time to change the blade.
Blades are cheap so if it's not cutting well change it!

[sgood]

These guys are telling you right. Blades are cheap. You are going to spend a lot of time making a project. Why ruin it or take the enjoyment of your time to save 20 cents. Your instincts were right.

[Russ C]

Plywoods will also dull blades at a faster rate. Two blades on one project is acually good.

[Normanb]

One more thing I have learned.  With hard wood speed of the lbade can dulla b lade very quyickly from heat.  If you slow the blade speed and use a steady cut you will get as a rule better blade life. I use an RBI scroll saw and a Hegner.  If I use max speed on either in oak or walnut etc.  I will dull the blade b y hear as much as cutting.  Slowing the blades will extend the life by quite a bit.  Another thing I( do and Steve has suggested this and I have seen reference to it on many other sites too.  Use packing tape to cover the pattern, not sure why but it helps keep the blade sharp and much cleaner cuts.  Just a few things I practice and have learned.

[Rapid Roger]

I agree, slow the speed down, guide the work piece into the blade do not "push" it.
I too use clear packing tape, it seems to lube/cool the blade as you cut.
Not only will you get better blade life, you will get a nicer smoother cut for less sanding too.

Rapid Roger

[jabak]

Hi
I agree with all above but would like to add I find when using clear tape to lube the blade I get a glare from the work lamp which impedes my vision so I simple put the tape on the wood and then adhere the pattern on top of the tape this does two things 1, stops glare from the lamp 2, makes it easeir to remove pattern after cutting leaving no spray adhesive residue on the wood
regards
John

[UHMNL]

Hi John,
The FD-HD 2 cuts slower as other skip tooth blades. I would rather use a # 7 blade for cutting 3/4" wood. Most use the HD for cutting 1 1/2 or 2" wood, like for toy cars. If a blade cuts slow, you have a tendency to push too hard into the blade and the blade will start cutting with a bevel. The same when you use low speed, it is so easy to start pushing too hard into the blade, instead of letting the blade do the cutting.
Mike

[Charlie Dearing]

I guess I'm a rebel.  I tend to use blades 'til they break.  There are those times they get dull though. (I only use spirals).  When it's getting to where your cuts are going slower and slower.  Probably a good time to change 'em out.

[sgood]

Hi FD Mike, great to see you here. I know everyone will appreciate your knowledge of scroll saw blades. Thanks for stopping by.

[yyyyyguy]

maybe my problem is a Dremel scroll saw (i don't seem to hear much good about them) but this is very interesting, i am "very" new to this , Charlie only uses spirals? - 2 blades per project not uncommon - when you have to force (push) the wood into the blade it's probably dull - where else could someone get this kind of info - my problem is what blade to use where and i seem to get tear out on the bottom of my projects i'll just keep reading -thanks

[juvy]

I'm guilty of pushing the blades to the limits... but have realized ( after several years) that life is much easier when I give in and change them faster.  Usually I change mine when I notice that the underside is becoming too fuzzy even when I use reverse blades, or if the cut edges are too rough... changing blades saves lots of sanding.  Also saves wrists.... used to get sore ones!

About puzzles from 3/4" .... those are usually made for smaller kids... I always use a #7 modified geometry.... they leave a beatiful , smooth cut and give enough kerf so kid don't have to force pieces together when they expand in humid condition... that can really add to the life of your puzzle.... and sanity of parents!

Juvy

[keidiag]

My rule of thumb is "If I have to push my work into the blade then it's time for a new one". Another tell is when you can't follow the line as easy...change the blade.

I'm using the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1, #3 and #5 almost exclusively now (every third tooth is reversed for the length of the blade). These are very sharp and very aggressive blades.When I first started using them I had to keep the speed down to about 1 to 1 1/2 on my 788 just to be able to have some control. Now that I'm used to them I have cranked the speed up to 6. They are the best blades I have ever used. I wish FD would start making a 2/0 UR...oh well.

Happy scrolling...Keith