Messages

31

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Fox Chapel Open House

« on: August 31, 2016, 09:00:19 am »

I don't pretend to speak for Fox Chapel Publishing, but the announcement was made on their forum and basically the reasons given were that it was expensive, very labor intensive & time consuming and they felt they weren't attracting enough people to continue it.  You can find the post on their website.  I don't know what the forum rules are here, so I won't post a link, but it's easy enough to find via Google.

32

Introduce Yourself. / Re: New Members

« on: August 26, 2016, 09:52:50 am »

Well Hello All, My name is Duane And I am new to scroll sawing. i have made a few things and I love it ,my family dose to I have things each of my kids want to make them. I live in Newport News, Virginia. I am the  lead chef at a local comedy club. I look forward to talking to and meeting all of you.

Welcome Duane,

We'll trade you scrolling tips and advice for some good jokes and recipes.  Sound like a deal?   

33

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: excalilbur

« on: July 22, 2016, 08:33:54 pm »

I bought my EX-21 from Seyco.  Most of the advice on the various scrolling forums recommended buying from Ray.  He takes the time to set the saw up properly, so that it's ready to use right out of the box.  Apparently not all vendors do this. 

34

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: HELP!! Please

« on: July 20, 2016, 08:38:15 am »

I know what you are going through and sympathize with your frustration.  When it happened to me, several years ago, I was trying spirals for the first time.  There almost wasn't a 2nd time.

A couple things come to mind.  First, it could be the blades.  I believe that it's possible to get a bad batch that is more brittle than they are supposed to be.  With very small blades, like you are using, the margin for error is quite small.  However, the fact that you have tried 2 different brands would seem to indicate that blades aren't the problem.

Second, it may be that the set screw, in the blade clamp is retracted too far into the clamp block.  If this is the case, then tightening the thumbscrew forces the blade into the set screw hole and stresses it.  This problem usually reveals itself in the telltale "hockey stick" on the blade end.  Again, with blades that small, it wouldn't take much to weaken them and cause them to break.  Also, sometimes there are burrs on the set screw and or thumbscrew that can damage the ends of the blades.  They can be sanded or filed smooth.  However, since you have replaced the blade clamp, set screw and thumb screw, it seems unlikely that this is the problem.

Hope you find the solution.  Good luck!

35

The Coffee Shop / Re: Table saw tech. Help!

« on: July 13, 2016, 08:16:11 am »

I agree that this sounds like a mechanical flaw in the saw.  Do you have the owners manual or can you find a PDF of it online?  Perhaps a call to the manufacturer's tech service dept?  This sounds like an unsafe situation and I would be hesitant to use the saw until it's understood what is happening.

36

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Help needed with deciding on blades

« on: July 13, 2016, 08:13:03 am »

I'm not a heavy user of spiral blades, but I've tried both Olson and Flying Dutchman.  I very much prefer the Flying Dutchman.  Both offer flat end spirals and I have found them to be easier to install.  However if you need a really small size, FD offers a 2/0 and 3/0 spiral, but not with flat ends.  They do untwist very easily though, with a couple pair of needle nose pliers, so they are quite usable and do a nice job. 

37

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Wood Grain

« on: June 28, 2016, 10:08:43 am »

Generally speaking, I like to see plywood veneer grain running in the direction of the longest dimension.  It just looks more natural to the eye.  However, there may be reasons for not following this simple rule of thumb.  If running the grain in the direction of the longest dimension causes a lot of waste of the material, then you may want to consider a more economical orientation.  There may be features of the grain that you want to highlight in the pattern, which may cause you to orient the direction a particular way.  IMHO, it's mostly a visual thing.  Strength of the plywood doesn't really come into play, unless you are doing construction or building cabinets/furniture.

38

Introduce Yourself. / Re: New to Scrolling - Health Issues

« on: June 27, 2016, 01:53:36 pm »

Reaction to dust and the health problems it can cause, while not a new subject, is something that a lot of woodworkers are not fully aware of.  Dust collection has become as big of a topic on various woodworking forums as that table saw to buy or the preferred method for cutting dovetails.  Lots of debate, lots of discussion, but it all helping to get the word out in the woodworking community.

Scrolling doesn't generate as much of the very fine dust that can cause respiratory problems, as sanding does, but it still is an issue not to be overlooked.  Sanding is one of the primary culprits.  As was mentioned, different people react to different species and sometimes this sensitivity comes about later in life.  I've read of folks who have worked with a particular species for many years, with no problems, only to suddenly realize they've developed a sensitivity to it.  The sensitivity can manifest itself in different ways; skin rashes, eye irritation, difficulty breathing, etc.  Makes it tough to pinpoint the source, given all the other allergens people can be exposed to.

Important thing is that you now have some evidence of ash causing you problems.  By taking precautions, with proper safety gear and some sort of dust mitigation, you should be able to tell if it is sufficient to prevent further problems.  Bottom line is that these precautions are good to take, even if we don't believe we will have a reaction.  Better safe than sorry.

Hope you are able to get past your health issues and continue to enjoy the hobby.

39

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: dewalt 788 or excalibur

« on: June 19, 2016, 11:48:35 am »

I currently have an Excalibur 21, which replaced a Dewalt that I had for many years.  I just got it earlier this year and haven't made a lot of sawdust with it yet, but I like it so far.  That said, I really liked my Dewalt and cut some very fine detailed patterns with it.  It was a type 2, but I never had any issues with it.  I can't imagine being able to cut fine detail much easier with my EX, but I'm willing to be pleasantly surprised.  If you are still considering the Dewalt, I suggest taking it for a thorough test drive first.  As Sheila mentioned, there were some quality issues with some of the type 2's, especially earlier on in their production run.  If the Dewalt is a good one, @ $175, you would be getting a pretty good deal.  I sold mine for $200 and thought the price was very fair.  I don't use mine professionally.  One of the complaints I've heard about the Dewalt is that for heavy, production use, they don't hold up as well.  I'm talking daily use, for several hours/day.  For a more casual user, they can be an excellent saw.  I'm not trying to talk you out of the Ex, by any stretch.  I think you will be very happy with an EX.  I upgraded because my Dewalt was getting a little long in the tooth and I'm hoping the EX is the last scrollsaw I need to buy.

40

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ordering blades for the first time

« on: June 17, 2016, 09:58:36 am »

Blade selection is very much a mix of personal preference and application.  Flying Dutchman and Olson blades are probably the 2 most popular brands.  Each offer a myriad of sizes and tooth configurations that can be confusing to the beginner.  A few basic rules of thumb; The smaller the number of the blade, the smaller the actual size of the blade.  Smaller blades have a higher TPI count, thus they cut slower, leave a smoother edge and work best in for very intricate cuts and tight turns.  Smaller blades are best suited for cutting thinner material.  The reverse is true of larger blades.

There are several specialty type blades for cutting metal, puzzles, plastics, etc, but the most popular blades for general scrolling in wood are reverse tooth and skip tooth.  Reverse tooth blades produce less tear out on the bottom of the wood.  Skip tooth blades clear the kerf much better and are generally preferred for thicker wood and/or man made materials, where heat generation can be an issue.  I use several sizes of blades of both brands.  I may like an Olson #2/0 reverse tooth blade in one application and an FD/UR #1 in another.  I like Olson MS series blades, the #3 MS has been my go-to reverse tooth blade for general fretwork for the past few years.  I prefer FD for spiral blades.  Each of us develops our own preferences and one really needs to try a few different blades to determine which ones they like best, for the work they are doing.

41

Introduce Yourself. / Re: new to scrolling

« on: June 15, 2016, 10:54:14 am »

Welcome Jason.  Thanks for your service!

I have an EX-21.  The 30 would be nice, in some circumstances, but first of all, it wouldn't fit in the designated "scroll saw corner" of my shop.  Also, consider the ergonomics involved with spinning a large piece in the saw, especially when making cuts in the corners.  If the piece is so big that a 30" capacity is required, you're probably trying to reach a lot of places that are going to be really tough to get to.  Even if it does fit in the saw, it can be hard to see what you are cutting in the far corners.  It can get pretty awkward sometimes, which is why a lot of folks use spiral blades for larger pieces.  I certainly don't want to discourage you from getting the 30.  If you have the budget and the space, go for it.  It's a fine saw. 

42

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: light for scrollsaw

« on: May 27, 2016, 08:48:32 am »

I tried one of those lighted magnifiers once.  I think it would take me a lot of getting used to.

I'm 56 and notice that scrolling detailed patterns is more of a visual challenge these days.  I don't wear glasses or contacts full time (yet), but I wear a pair of reading glasses when scrolling and I have a couple clamp on lights attached to the ceiling joists of my basement shop.  I found that aiming the lights from multiple angles helps minimize the blade shadow and works better than the single light I've used for years.  One of the lights is an old articulating arm, desk lamp that I salvaged and the other is just a cheap clamp on work light, with the big aluminum reflector.  Nothing fancy.

43

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: craftsman scroll saw 21602 v speed

« on: May 25, 2016, 12:02:14 pm »

I have no experience with that particular model, but I started out on a Craftsman about 20 years ago.  It was a serviceable machine, but I quickly outgrew it and wanted something better.  I wore it out after several years and replaced it with a Dewalt.  I now have an Excalibur.  None of that is really relevant to your question though.  The thing about mid-priced scroll saws is that many of them have very similar characteristics.  There may not be much difference between models across several brands. 

With regard to the specs of the saw, generally speaking variable speed is good to have, but if you do much fretwork, you may grow to hate having to use a tool to make blade changes.  Vibration is probably tolerable.  If it's too bad, be sure to get it replaced while under warranty.  The 16" throat depth can be somewhat limiting, depending on what you are cutting, but it should suffice for most beginner projects.

It's a bit of a catch 22 with these saws as beginners don't want to spend a ton of money on a tool until they know they want to pursue the hobby long term.  But low to mid priced saws aren't designed & built to the quality of the more expensive saws and the lower quality may lead to a less enjoyable experience, frustration, etc and eventually abandoning the hobby.  We don't want that, so if you do find yourself frustrated, post your problems here for advice on how to distinguish between problems with the equipment vs technique.  Good luck!

44

Introduce Yourself. / Re: new to scroll sawing

« on: May 25, 2016, 11:38:30 am »

Welcome to the forum and welcome to the hobby.  There's a lot of ground to cover when there is such a blank canvas to work with.  My suggestion is to look for this book;

http://www.amazon.com/Scroll-Saw-Workbook-John-Nelson/dp/1565238494

It will give you answers to many of the questions you probably haven't thought of yet, plus practical exercises to develop your skills and some patterns to hone them.  It's a great resource for the beginner. 

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

45

The Coffee Shop / Re: With heavy heart

« on: May 20, 2016, 12:17:36 pm »

Sorry to hear that.

RIP Mike.