Messages

61

Brag Forum / Re: Dutch Windmill Clock

« on: February 07, 2016, 08:39:57 pm »

Dan - Sorry but the couple will remain unpainted. My painting them couldn't do justice and the small cuts would be lost. I think the silhouettes and the color in the flowers tells their story. Just my interpretation.    Brian

62

Brag Forum / Dutch Windmill Clock

« on: February 07, 2016, 04:56:47 pm »

Finally finished my Dutch Windmill clock.  Basic design by P. Spielman & D. Boelman with some alteration.  This is one of those projects I started and changed as I progressed.  Can't help but put my two cents in as I work a design.  The Dutch couple is what started me on the whole endeavor. Thanks for looking. Cheers Brian

63

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade clarification please

« on: January 26, 2016, 01:46:14 pm »

Tony - You're still boss - yea right!     

64

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Rip Fence for scroll saw?

« on: January 20, 2016, 08:01:33 pm »

I believe you can make your own "rip fence" for a scroll saw by using the same approach as used for re-sawing on a band saw. That is accomplished by taking, say a  straight 1x4, and drawing a straight line on the 3 1/2" face, say 1 1/2" in from one side. Then scroll saw that line about halfway through the drawn line. I.E. if you started with an 18" piece you would have cut 9" from one end 1 1/2" from one side of the 3 1/2" board width.
Your should use a large blade ( #7,#9, or #10) this will cut a larger kerf or path way and not bind on either side of the blade. Because of the burr on the one side of the blade, you will have to angle your 18" board in order to cut to the marked line. This skew angle is what a fence should be set at to make repetitive piece. I cut my board that 9" in and stop trying not to change the angle. I then clamp the test piece to my table and then clamp a new board "fence" board next to that one. The problem with this method is coming up with the same skew angle for just the right thickness of your desired pieces. It means devising your method of marking both ends of your fence to result is just the distance you want the fence away from you blade. I wish I had Steve's tech. abilities to do a video on this. A picture is worth a thousand words.    PS Start with a new sharp blade. Technically each blade you use should have a slightly different skew angle. On a long production run you may luck out with a close enough skew to just change the blade and not alter your fence angle.  Cheers  Brian 

65

Ask Steve a question. / Re: newbie's starter project

« on: January 15, 2016, 11:27:57 pm »

Jim - one of the scroll saw blade manufacturers is under the name of Flying Dutchman (FD). Mike Moorlach started selling these fine blades about 20 years ago and recently sold is business to "The wooden Teddy Bear".  You can still buy blades from www.mikesworkshop.com or www.woodenteddybearonline.com  .     Wooden...bear will fill your order either way.  Another blade manufacturer is Olson Blades. A fair number of people like them also. www.sloanswoodshop.com is one distributor for these blade although some of the big box stores carry a limited choice of their blades.  Cheers Brian

66

Brag Forum / Re: Steve's PAW SOME cats

« on: January 15, 2016, 11:06:11 pm »

Karl - I don't know if "cats" is in Steve's Cat. or not. Since  it was revamped I can't find anything I want. If you e-mail your address I'll send you his project. It's a "cat.pdf" called "cat wall hanging". I think that's permissible?

and Marg was your comment a play on words "outside the box".     Cheers  Brian

67

Ask Steve a question. / Re: newbie's starter project

« on: January 14, 2016, 12:11:14 pm »

Jim - If you hadn't have said anything I would never have guessed something was missing from your intent.  As for vibration and small pieces breaking off, cutting a single layer of 1/8" is to easy to break. This happens with 1) to large a blade or 2) trying to turn to tight or aggressively. I'll often cut small intricate areas with a small blade say #1 or #3, then cut larger areas with a #5 or #7.  My blade choice is FD-UR blades. Lastly, I often will cut two (or three) pieces of 1/8". This slows down the cutting process giving me time to cut to the line and the multiple layers help support the more fragile pieces. Personally, I like to finish all my pieces separately and use yellow glue if raw wood is still available for gluing. Otherwise, I use gel super glue for attaching finished pieces.  PS You have a good designer eye.  Cheers Brian   

68

Get togethers, shows and swap meets / Re: West Slope of Colorado

« on: January 13, 2016, 11:35:09 am »

Al - your always welcome to come to the Sioux falls scrollers meeting if you can't find one out there.    Cheers Brian

69

Pattern Requests. / Owl word art

« on: January 13, 2016, 11:29:38 am »

Help direct an old man.  While surfing different pattern sources I came across a pattern I thought would be good to cut for my brides Valentine this year.  Do you think I had for foresight to get it? -Noooo.  The pattern was of two stylized Owls with the words between them saying "Owl always Love You".  Anyone know where I say it?  Thanks in advance   Brian

70

Brag Forum / Steve's PAW SOME cats

« on: January 12, 2016, 11:30:44 am »

I loved Steve's design of "cat" sayings.  But I wanted them all so I put them onto a frame. The idea was to use a photo of our cat....  house-sum-ever...he is all black and you can't see anything but an outline.  So I've plugged in some other lucky cat owners pic off the internet. If you're looking Steve - thanks.  For all other - thanks for looking.  Cheer Brian

71

Pattern Requests. / Re: Dutch Windmill

« on: January 03, 2016, 11:40:51 am »

Richard     Your "de zwaan" is great. But the thumb photo is to hard for me to do much with.  Could you send me its full size "brother"? My e-mail is blb691@hotmail.com    Thanks in advance.    Brian

72

Pattern Requests. / Dutch Windmill

« on: December 30, 2015, 07:45:48 pm »

I'm looking for a traditional silhouette of a Dutch Windmill. It will be a backing for a dutch couple in the foreground. I would like to cut it at about 4-5"
[ 10-13 cm ] high so inside cuttings need to be minimal if at all.  Thanks for any direction you may offer.  Cheers  Brian

73

Brag Forum / Ready for Christmas

« on: December 18, 2015, 10:15:54 pm »

With the craft shows out of the way I finally finished a few things I want to give this year. The first is a butterfly shelf or wall display [thanks Steve]. I combined a couple of his projects - you might not be able to see the scrolled oak butterfly is floating and tipped off the photo.  The full circle slips out of the slotted base and can be a wall hanging.  I don't know how my wife's Dr. will display it.  The second photo is a Sue Mey design.  I stack cut 4.  3 are for our children's families. The 4th one we gave as a wedding gift back is Oct.  Thanks for looking and have a blessed holiday.  Brian

74

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: under cutting

« on: December 14, 2015, 11:20:54 pm »

Once you know the blade / table are square there are a few things to look for. The size of the blade used needs to match the tightness of the turns. I started using to large a blade for my turns and found I could not keep on the lines and if I forced the turn the bottom cut caused the parts to only fit one way. Then I tried a smaller blade which followed the lines better but was to thin a blade and bowed cutting 3/4" stock. It's a tricky balancing act; the right blade for the wood thickness/hardness and slow the feed rate down so the blade does the cutting. Don't slow the machine rate down. I don't do puzzles on a regular bases because I still haven't got things down pat.  I think my present problem is not changing the blade often enough and then I start pushing to hard for the turns.  Good luck   Brian

75

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Help Choosing Proper Clear Top Coat

« on: December 09, 2015, 08:53:28 pm »

Thanks for the reply and tips Dakota! So I'm looking on Amazon online at Deft sprays now, and there's one simply called "Clear Wood Finish" and one called "Polyurethane." Both come in a semi gloss sheen. Which one would you suggest - or is simply a toss up? Appreciate the help!

Ohio - Clear wood finish is faster drying - great for our kind of wood working.  Polyurethane is slower to dry and is harder, making it better for furniture. I do use rub on poly on the bases of some projects just because I want a more finished piece with more wood pores filled level.