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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: seadog852 on February 14, 2015, 05:48:30 pm
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Fuzzies!! What is the best technique to remove them? I really don't like trying to get rid of the fuzzies on extensive fretwork, seems to take twice as long to remove than to cut.
I've sanded and added tape. Anything better? Torch, chemical, fuzzy eating bugs? lol IDK
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Greetings!
I've had pretty good success with a propane torch. Just a quick pass
without leaving the flame linger in any spot too long.
Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse
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Hi Seadog:
Are you using reverse tooth blades.
This is where the bottom 6 to 10 teeth on your blade point the other way (up)
This eliminate a lot of the fuzzies
Like Spirithorse mention a torch is a good quick method to get rid of them
Just don't stay in one spot too long, or you turn your project into designer firewood
Small file also works pretty good.
Good luck
Fab4
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Try using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades and it will help eliminate 80+% of them. You can Get them here Mikes Workshop (http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm) :)
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Sanding Mop :)
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i'm fond of my spirals. do the regs sometime but like the spirals mainly b/c i can't spin the wood fast enough or i make more mistakes with it. guess I'll try the torch.
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That is the culprit. Spirals are notorious for fuzzies they can't make reverse teeth on a spiral blade.
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Actually they do Dunk. 8)
Have you tried the Flying Dutchman - Spiral Reverse blades from Mikes Workshop (http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm). I have tried them and they do help eliminate a lot of the fuzzies, but no all. 8)
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that will be my next blade purchase. spiral reverse! good call Russ
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Spiral reverse may work well on 1/4 inch material but I use 5/8 inch hardwoods and have not had good experience with spiral reverse - for me they cut slower and leave a more ragged edge then regular spirals. I use spirals exclusively and threw the last of my spiral reverse blades in the trash last night. At least on the thicker wood the spiral reverse does not eliminate all of the fuzzies although it does reduce them. I am back to using only regular spiral blades and a sanding mop to remove fuzzies. With 1/4 inch wood I would probably be more timid on a sanding mop for removing fuzzies on fine fretwork but on 5/8 inch wood it is not a problem.
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On fragile pieces I go around the back side with an x-acto knife. I also us a small stiff brass brush. If it is not a real fragile piece I use a sanding mop.
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I stand corrected. :-\ However I still think his problem is the current spirals he is using.
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I stand corrected. :-\ However I still think his problem is the current spirals he is using.
More fuzzies is one of the down sides of spiral, no matter which ones you use and they do not cut as clean as straight blades, in my opinion. A person has to make the determination what they want to use based on the pros and cons. Personally I can do much more intricate fret work with spirals than I can with flat blades, but I bet I spend a lot more time cleaning up the piece afterwards than I would if used flat blades.
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I'm not a fan of spirals but some of the projects I pick require them. I like to use regular rev. FD blades for as much as I can then change to the details with the spirals. Actually I probable do the spiral detail first followed by larger areas with regular blades. I bring this up only because it does reduce the amount of fuzzes from the spirals-hence reducing my clean up time.