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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: dirtrider73068 on July 15, 2013, 10:04:13 pm
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I was sanding my small parts or blanks with a sanding block, but then mounted it in my vise made it better but still tough have to do the twist and shout with my arms. So I tried something today, I took my small palm sander turned upside down and put it in my vise plugged it and turn it on, it was much better, took just 2 seconds to sand a blank, even better after done cutting and pulled the pattern off to sand down the fibers the tape pulled up, and was faster. Will have to do this more now.
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Good idea. I notice when using some softer woods like poplar or even a pine the fibers that come up when pealing up the tape. I use masking tape, but I heard that blue painters tape is less forceful than masking tape and doesn't pull up as many fibers. Unless you use blue painters tape and this whole comment is a waste. lol.
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I use the blue painters tape but still like to give that last sanding just to be sure to have that nice smooth feel. It is a good idea, it really takes a 1 2 on each side and its done, longer if want it even better. Its alot faster when your doing stack cutting like have done, I had 40 blanks well 80, 40 of two different angels to cut out, so you can imagine sanding 40 blank squares by hand, even if pre-sanded would still have to sand the end of the table saw cut.
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I just use my Irwin quick clamps to hold my palm sander upside down I can use this set up on top of my home made down draft table. it works great. Same idea as the vice...
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I have been using my palm sander upside down for a while now also. I used an 8" wood screw clamp and then screwed the clamp to my bench, it's always ready to use and never in my way.
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I have found that using a Rockler's hockey puck, those round things that hold the wood while you sand, paint, etc. I kept on getting blooding thumbs and fingers when I was sanding 1/8" or 1/16" thick scrollsaw projects - getting blood out of wood is a pain. After cutting I put the project on a sheet of 400 sandpaper and use the "puck" to provide stable and even pressure on the whole project. A couple of quick circles on the paper and all is glass smooth again after the tape removal.
Pieter
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Has anyone used the sticky paper label material as shown in the rubber band rifle project? I guess you print the pattern on the label material, then peel off the back and attach to your blank. It looked like to came off the wood pretty easily.
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Your own saliva/spit is the best item to use for breaking down blood and removing from a project. Try it.
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I keep forgetting how good a cleaner spit is, Mom always washed my face with it, did you ever wonder where the term "Spit Bath" came from?
Well now you know!
It will disolve nearly every organic material you can think of. Funny I never thought of using it on blood.
I've also noticed that the different brands of painters tape have different strengths some will really pull the splinters up and others not so much, I guess I need to see which ones I have and report back here.
Gabby
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This is in response to EIEIO. The backed paper is great but I find if you don't use tape under the project adhesive clings to the finished product. Blue tape I find is the easiest to remove.
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I keep forgetting how good a cleaner spit is, Mom always washed my face with it, did you ever wonder where the term "Spit Bath" came from?
Well now you know!
It will dissolve nearly every organic material you can think of. Funny I never thought of using it on blood.
I've also noticed that the different brands of painters tape have different strengths some will really pull the splinters up and others not so much, I guess I need to see which ones I have and report back here.
Gabby
Well I have to report that my Scotch brand 3M blue painters tape will pull more than fibers it will even pull some of the grain up from clear pine, I did a bunch of sanding and still can't get all of it smoothed over but fortunately it isn't noticeable in the photo of the Friends and Ammo plaque. It sticks way tighter than regular masking tape does. I'd recommend caution using it on delicate cuttings. As a matter of fact I'd suggest something much gentler!
Gabby
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Another sanding trick, tack or glue a couple strips at 90 degree angle to each other out of thinner material than you will be sanding to a board or your table top, (Your call) then when you lay the part being sanded on there and hook up your palm sander of choice and go at it, the part can't scoot away from you and is totally supported helping to prevent breakage.
Gabby
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I like to sand larger pieces 100_120_220_400 grit before I cut my blanks. I find it easier to move the palm sander over a larger pc. rather than working small blanks. I believe sanding & removing loose top slivers will leave me less final sanding on a finish fret work. I also do not remove all the fine saw dust before applying blue painter tape. That way the tape has a reduced holding/grain raising affect when I remove the tape/pattern.
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I also do not remove all the fine saw dust before applying blue painter tape. That way the tape has a reduced holding/grain raising affect when I remove the tape/pattern.
I will have to try that, I thought the dust wouldn't let the tape stick.
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I also do not remove all the fine saw dust before applying blue painter tape. That way the tape has a reduced holding/grain raising affect when I remove the tape/pattern.
I will have to try that, I thought the dust wouldn't let the tape stick.
It will if you leave it all on there, he said he didn't remove ALL of it and left just enough to reduce the adhesion some.
Gabby
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I also use the upside-down palm sander technique. It's nice to see other people have the same mindset. I also have placed my power drill in the vise, with sanding drums installed, to create a "MacGuyver" spindle sander. It works pretty well, especially for sanding the inside of vases and bowls.