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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: rfielder on June 22, 2018, 11:36:19 am
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Just did one of Steve's patterns, "God Loves Cowboys". This was done in pine, partly because that is what I had available, partly as a test of the just-purchase new (to me) Excalibur EX-21. and partly as a first pass at a moderately complicated pattern (for me).
Pine is pretty soft, so I had my doubts that it was a good choice given the thin walls in many places. As expected, the wood broke easily in one place, and a piece of wood was broken off when using my mop sander. Not overly upset that the final product was ruined - I had not really thought it would stand up, and it was great practice.
What is a good choice for thin walled patterns? I know that Steve says that his favourites as walnut and maple. I can also get oak fairly easily. Which is best to give some strength to thin patterns?
Thanks!
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Here is the rub of your delima. If the wood is too soft it has no strength but is easy to cut, if it is real dense it has a lot of strength but is hard(er) to cut. A close grain of wood works as well as a wood with not too straight of a grain. While pine will work for most things, maple ( much denser ) can be cut quite thinly. You will have to experiment a bit to see what wood works best for you and your style of cutting.
DW
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DW - thanks!
I kind of figured maple would be good, great to have it confirmed. Don't have any pieces bit enough for this project, but should be able to get some.
You will have to experiment a bit to see what wood works best for you and your style of cutting.
How do you mean "your style of cutting"? I have not been doing this long enough to understand what styles of cutting exist.
What about african mahogany? Does it work well when cut thin? I have some of that on hand, but don't want to waste it if it is not a good choice for this project.
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After looking at the "god loves cowboys" The hat outline would be delicate with any type of wood. I cut the golf club "weed wacker" pattern out of pine. this pattern has thin places as well. I pre sanded, then scrolled , but did not sand as it wood have broken up. to sturdy it up I applied light ca glue to the thin parts. then finished with a wipe on poly. the ca glue made the weak areas much sturdier all though the wood darkened slightly and the poly didn't soak in as well.
Hard woods such as maple or walnut wood be stronger. a Baltic birch plywood or other hard wood plwoods would be another choice to consider.
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Wood choice in in the eye of the beholder. I use pine in about one percent of my projects. If I'm taking the time to cut a pattern, I use hardwood. It's more expensive, but it finishes better and is dencer. I like cherry and maple. If you have access to a planner, you can recycle discarded furniture.
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I use hardwood. It's more expensive, but it finishes better and is dencer. I like cherry and maple. If you have access to a planner, you can recycle discarded furniture.
I have both a jointer and a planer. Recycling furniture is a neat idea! Thanks!!
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I have been so disappointed when using pine and having a project also almost finished and have it break on me. The only time I use pine is when it is a solid piece or very little fret work. I always buy oak at Lowe’s yes it cost more but a lot less chance of breakage.
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I guess i'm in the minority. I use plain old pine for most everything. I have a supply of poplar which I use at times. Since I sell nothing and only give things away pine is fine. I do some projects that are fairly delicate but I use extreme care. I'm also very careful with the mop.