Topics

1

Ask Steve a question. / Jigsaws

« on: September 01, 2017, 10:34:37 am »

Hello Steve from over the pond,

Recently, after recovering somewhat from a long illness and a loss of interest in my main hobbies (woodturning, scrollsaw work and astrophotography), I was asked to make a couple of jigsaws.  This request fired my enthusiasm - just what I needed.  So I looked for your jigsaw book which I purchase a year or two back but couldn't find it.  I must have forgotten to transfer it over onto a new computer.

After purchasing a new booklet I set to work.  This eventually brought a question I'd been meaning to ask you before I took ill.  How do you stick your photographs onto the timber. plywood etc without getting glue over the photographs particularly when you rub the photograph down to exclude air bubbles?  This is what you do in your video which is also very useful.  Thank you.

I know it's a silly question but I'd love to know how YOU do it.

Kind regards

Tony Smith

2

Ask Steve a question. / Jetsaw review

« on: November 02, 2016, 05:35:50 pm »

Hi Steve,

I watched your review with interest and was particularly interested to see how you attached the vacuum hose - the blue sleeve.  Since it seems a very similar problem to the one with the Excaliber which I use I would be interested to know from where you got the the sleeve.  A link would be great.

Many thanks.

Tony Smith in the UK

3

Intarsia / First intarsia job

« on: January 24, 2016, 06:20:21 am »

I'm about to start my first intarsia job.  It may be a silly question - OK no question is silly.

I realise that any thickness of timber can be used within reason but generally from what I've seen no thickness is stated in a plan.  It seems to me that about 3/4 inch (18 mm) is generally the thickness used.  Is this so?

Tony

4

Pattern Requests. / Pattern for Honda Fireblade motor bike

« on: January 03, 2016, 10:57:51 am »

I'm a relative beginner and have been asked to cut a Honda Fireblade motorbike.  I haven't a clue as to where to begin.

A picture of the bike is at

http://www.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/range/super-sport/cbr1000rr-fireblade-2014/specifications.html

or a Google search will provide many others - search "honda fireblade".

Or perhaps somebody can point me in the direction of a simple introduction to the production of patterns.

Any help would be gratefully accepted.

Tony

5

General Scroll Saw Talk / Dust extraction with the new Excalibur model

« on: January 02, 2016, 12:18:39 pm »

A few months ago I purchased an Excalibur scrollsaw.  It is a newer model in that it has extra holes in the work table round the main hole for the saw blade.  These are to facilitate dust extraction.  However, though this works satisfactorily inevitably small pieces of wood pass through the main hole and some collect between the plastic underneath the work table and the table itself at the point where it is connected to the extraction duct.  Eventually the airflow is severely restricted and the bits have to be removed.

As far as I can tell the plastic is stuck into place so removing the wood bits is messy to say the least using a combination of placing the dust extractor above the work table and thin wire to coax the bits out.

Does anybody have any idea how this can be improved?

Many thanks for any help.

Tony

6

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Cutting letters

« on: September 01, 2015, 01:07:00 pm »

I've been asked to cut several of the 'Anchors Aweigh' pattern published by Steve.  I'm using 3/4 inch oak and find the lettering particularly taxing for a relative newbie like myself.  Letters like 'e' are notorious because of the cross grain just where I don't want it. 

Because of the thickness and toughness I'm using a No3 scroll reverse blade.  I'm using an Excalibur with the speed reduced to about 25%.

I guess most of my problems are due to lack of experience but does anybody have any tips for this work.

Thank you for any help.

Tony Smith

7

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Blades for cutting silhouettes

« on: August 23, 2015, 09:52:32 am »

Although I've been scrolling for 2 or 3 years now and have moved up to an Excalibur I still consider myself to be little more than a Newbie.

I recently got a request to cut some silhouette pictures of relatives and so I read about it (as I always do before attempting something new) and found that spiral blades are recommended so I ordered some as well as others from over there (I'm over the pond in the UK) because I can't get Flying Dutchman blades over here.  I guessed I needed a fine blade so opted for a No 3.

On trying one out I was surprised to find the kerf being so wide such that fine work isn't possible.

So my question is what size blade do you experts suggest I use?

Thank you for any help.

Tony

8

Ask Steve a question. / Foot speed controller

« on: June 13, 2015, 04:26:52 pm »

Hi Steve,

A few days ago I upgraded to the Excalibur Ex-16 machine from a Scheppach machine which was great except that after two years of use the thermal overload/reset switch burnt out with a replacement costing over ?50 here in the UK.  Subsequently that burnt out and the root cause was found to be the speed controller - cost of replacement over ?90 and a total cost of nearly half of a new machine.  I thus cut my losses and upgraded.

Now, I feel sure that I've heard you refer to a foot operated speed controller for your Excalibur and other machines.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  Over here in the UK the suppliers of Excaliburs have not heard of foot operated speed controllers.  As I said please correct me if I'm wrong but, if not, could you please give me a hint as to what to look for.  I realise I can't import from the US because of the differrent mains voltage.

Thanky you for any help.

Tony Smith

9

Introduce Yourself. / Introductions

« on: August 28, 2013, 01:35:54 pm »

Hello all,

I'm another new member from the UK - Wirral on Merseyside.

I'm 69 and have been woodturning and cabinet making for over 40 years.  About 2 years ago I was asked to do a series of jobs which needed a scrollsaw.  I was uncertain at first whether to invest so bought a cheap JET machine.  Over the last 2 years tendons in my wrists have become sore and caused me to curtail my woodturning activities.  I was happy to find that scrolling hardly affects them so I was able to continue with working in wood.  I'm finding I really do enjoy this, new to me, woodworking activity.

Recently I got really frustrated with the JET machine because of two reasons.  The air blower was next to useless and recently gave up altogether and the blade clamps were of a very poor design.  I was able to partially correct the clamps but in the end I became frustrated.  I decided I wished to carry on with scrollsawing but what machine to get?  I didn't wish to pay out for the excaliber type machine.  It was also bigger than I needed.  I wanted something in the region ?200 to ?300 -  I guess about $300 to $450 approximately.  I found there weren't many to choose from but settled on the Scheppach Deco 405.  It arrived a few days ago and I think I made a good choice.

I've been aware of this site  for over a year and have downloaded several of Steve's designs.  I also purchase his jigsaw pattern book - twice actually because I accidentally deleted the first.  I also made a donation some months back but never got an acknowledgement.  I wasn't upset because I realise people are busy.

I have one question for now.  How the heck do you good people glue photographs to plywood before cutting a jigsaw WITHOUT GETTING GLUE ON THE PHOTOGRAPH?  It's ok for 6 x 4s but 10 x 8s I find quite tricky.  Perhaps it's just practice but I hate having to waste photographic paper.

Regards

Tony Smith