Author Topic: best blade holder  (Read 3356 times)

patban

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best blade holder
« on: April 20, 2010, 02:23:21 am »
hi i recently bought a dremel scroll saw.  i dont like the original blade holder that comes with it.  does anyone know where can i find a replacement? the blade always comes loose and bends the blades.  And i need to use an allen wrench to replace the blade.  so want to replace it.  anyone has any suggestions?!?

drigolin

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2010, 04:04:41 am »

Offline Russ C

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2010, 07:26:57 am »
I am always amazed how much help there is in a scrollsaw community. Very helpful site.....  8)
russ@simplywoodencreations.com

Keep The Blade On The Line.

patban

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2010, 02:18:49 am »
thank you i did find one that will fit.  thanks for the website!!

Offline Merlin

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2010, 05:22:31 am »
Patban: remember not to over tighten the blade holder screw/allen key.
I did for a while until I found that if I didn't wring the poor wee screw it did not bend.

Cheers Merlin
Try not! Do,
or do not
There is no try

Yoda "Empire Strikes Back" 1980

chief

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2010, 12:58:28 am »
I had a problem before with the blades slipping out.  Try roughing up the inside of the holder with a file or like 80 grit sand paper.

gunado

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2010, 03:46:53 am »
Great info about the blades holders. I have sent them an email requesting more info. Thanks for the address. :) ;D

Russell

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 09:44:06 am »
I made blade holders for my cheap saw using worktop fixing bolts.  If you have access to a welding set it is fairly easy.  The fixing bolts consist of a 6mm threaded bar, two sliding clamp attachments and an extended 6mm nut.

Just take the extended nut and weld it onto one of the sliding clamp fixings.  The nut sits on the end in the correct orientation, if you play about with it it becomes apparent where and how to fix it.  Use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the nut, this is the groove the blade sits in.  The grove must travel from the outer edge of the nut to the back of the tapped thread.  Screw the 6mm threaded bar into one side of the nut and ensure that the bar stops in line with the groove (I left the hacksaw blade in the groove to act as a stop); this will be the fixed stop for the blade to be clamped against.  Be sure to work out which side the stop needs to be on.  Cut the bar flush and weld it in place.  Now you dig around your workshop looking for any 6mm threaded knobs to use as the clamp on the opposite side of the nut.  I found loads, from unused router attachments or other jigs/accessories.  Remove the pin blade holders from the saw and fix your two new holders top and bottom and hey presto you have reasonably quick pinless blade holders.  They work fine for me anyway.  Took me about 2 hours to make, they are not particularly pretty, but work very well and cost peanuts.

Apologies for the duff description, but it is really difficult to describe what is easy to visualise inside my head, LOL.  I will try and attach a couple of photos.

[attachment deleted by admin]

keidiag

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 09:59:34 am »
I too had a problem with 'hockey stick' bends on my 788. I solved the problem by removing the set screws (top and bottom) and replaced them with thumb screws that Black & Decker sent me when I complained about the problem. Having the extra little bearing for locking the blade works. Just remember to remove the thumbscrews about once a month and put a bit of WD40 under the bearing.

Keith

cherie

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Re: best blade holder
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 10:42:26 am »
I too had a problem with 'hockey stick' bends on my 788. I solved the problem by removing the set screws (top and bottom) and replaced them with thumb screws that Black & Decker sent me when I complained about the problem. Having the extra little bearing for locking the blade works. Just remember to remove the thumbscrews about once a month and put a bit of WD40 under the bearing.

Keith

I had the "hockey stick" effect also, but I adjusted the set screws and now I have blades that do not bend.  I think with so much use, the set screws have a tenancy to move a bit.  I also found my work much easier to run through.

 

SMF

Teknoromi