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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: Ohio_Scroller on December 04, 2015, 01:05:53 pm
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Hi there,
I've been working on a sign for my brother in-law, in which I've used 1/2" oak plywood for the backing, oak molding to frame it, and 1/2" oak ply for the lettering on the sign which I cut on the scroll saw. I've attached a picture to help illustrate.
I used Varathane Wood Stain on all separate elements of the project. Because I needed to glue the letters to the sign, I did not apply any top coat to any element of the project so that I could get the strongest possible bond. Now that the project has been glued and assembled I feel because of all the nooks and crannies of the letters, a top coat finish from a spray can would work the best. However, I'm lost on what to use. Again, the stain I used is oil based.
Minwax Spray Polycrylic looks like it would work but it includes a warning to not use on Minwax Red Mahogany stain. I didn't use that specific stain but I'm concerned that the redness of the Varathane Cabernet stain I used would cause the same conflict.
Just simply lost as to how Spray Shellac, Spray Polyurethane, Spray Spar Varnish, and Spray Spar Urethane might affect the project at this point. The sign will simply hang above a doorway so I'm not overly concerned about durability issues - but I'd just like to give then entire thing a semi-gloss or gloss finish. I want as clear a finish is possible with as little ambering as possible.
Please help me make sense of this! Thank you so much!
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My vote goes for a Deft spray in semi-gloss or satin [I'd stay away from acrylic base]. Spray very light coats from all 4 directions with dry time between each. Color change is going to happen whatever you seal with. Stain some scraps and experiment. PS - My choice would have been to stain & seal the backing/border, the letters dido separately, and used superglue [the gel form] to assemble afterwords. The glue holds very well and I am able to sand the backer and/or letters easily before assemble.
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Thanks for the reply and tips Dakota! So I'm looking on Amazon online at Deft sprays now, and there's one simply called "Clear Wood Finish" and one called "Polyurethane." Both come in a semi gloss sheen. Which one would you suggest - or is simply a toss up? Appreciate the help!
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I spray shellac on a lot of my scrollsawn projects for several reasons;
Dries very fast.
Little to no odor and what there is doesn't linger.
Easy clean up
Spraying light coats allows you to hit the piece from several directions, without creating puddles or runs.
Dewaxed shellac is compatible with just about any other type of finish.
Shellac, even clear shellac will impart a bit of an amber tone to the piece, so test on scrap that is finished similarly before committing to the actual project finish.
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Deft all the way all day any day
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Thanks for the reply and tips Dakota! So I'm looking on Amazon online at Deft sprays now, and there's one simply called "Clear Wood Finish" and one called "Polyurethane." Both come in a semi gloss sheen. Which one would you suggest - or is simply a toss up? Appreciate the help!
Ohio - Clear wood finish is faster drying - great for our kind of wood working. Polyurethane is slower to dry and is harder, making it better for furniture. I do use rub on poly on the bases of some projects just because I want a more finished piece with more wood pores filled level.
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As long as u r n a climate controlled shop then what I do is spray deft poly before I go to work when I get off its more than ready for another coat. That's what seems to work good for me.
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Since your project is made from oak plywood, my advice would be to use Bullseye CLEAR SHELLAC, along with Watco semi gloss lacquer. Shooting the shellac is pretty easy. Spray from all four directions, & 2 coats will probably do the job. As far as the lacquer, it's kinda ticklish in it's own way. Lacquer has to meld to itself. In turn, as you put each coat on, it needs to be as even as you can possibly get it. Just my two pennies worth.
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I have sprayed Deft in the past but I find Rustolium clear finish works just as well, and is cheaper. I get it at Lowes or Walmart.