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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: Mainewoods on March 17, 2011, 08:04:49 am
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This tip is for those that may still be looking for an effective way to apply patterns.
I had been using the method Steve describes in his blog, spraying the back of the pattern with adhesive and applying it directly to the wood. After cutting, I usually applied heat to get the pattern off cleanly, but there was always some adhesive residue left behind, which I sanded off. This worked, but I wanted to try something different.
In another thread, I read where someone suggested using shelf paper. Made sense, since shelf paper is designed to be easily removed leaving no residue. I think it was in the same thread that it was asked about whether you could print directly to the shelf paper. I doubted it, but decided to try it out for myself. I picked up a roll of white shelf paper at my local Wally world, cut a few 8.5" X 11" sheets from it and inserted them into the paper tray of my HP inkjet printer. I emphasise the "inkjet" part, because I figured this is where the printing problems would occur. I printed out two patterns. After about 5 minutes, I swiped my finger across a corner of the pattern, completely smearing all the ink, leaving nothing behind resembling the pattern that was there. As I suspected, the ink wasn't even a little bit dried. I waited an hour and tried again, with the exact same results. So, I decided I'd let the patterns sit overnight, and see if they were dry in the morning. Although they were somewhat drier, they still smeared VERY easily, so I came to the conclusion that printing directly onto shelf paper with an inkjet printer was not going to work. At least not with HP ink. I know from experience that EPSON ink dries faster than HP ink, but my EPSON printer kicked the bucket almost a year ago. Maybe someone with an EPSON printer can post their results. I have a laser printer, but it's in storage, and I'm not sure if the shelf paper can handle the heat used to bond the toner to the paper. Will let you know when I test this out. It's an old laser printer, so I don't care if the shelf paper melts inside, at least I'll be able to relay the results.
Anyway, since printing on the shelf paper didn't work out, and I still wanted to use the shelf paper, I decided to print the pattern to regular paper, then use the spray adhesive to attach it to the shelf paper. Then, the shelf paper can be attached to your blank. The first pattern was also covered with clear packing tape, but the second wasn't. I noticed no difference in the cuts between the two, however it was only 3/8" BB ply and didn't exactly put much of a strain on the blades. Still, when I finished cutting both patterns, I was able to simply peel the remainder off, with absolutely no residue left behind! Easy peasey!
I will definitely be applying my patterns with the shelf paper from now on! If I find an effective way to print directly to the shelf paper, I will let you know.
Sorry this is so long winded, but I wanted all interested parties to know how my trial and error attempts led me to doing it the way I now do. Hopefully, someone find this info useful! ;D
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I cover the project with green painters tape and then use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then put the pattern on top of the tape. Finally, I use clear packing tape to cover all and when the project is cut just remove all with no residue. I have tried the shelf paper and that works well also, no problems with the ink after about 5 minutes but as you say, different inks dry at different rates. My preference is with the tape method. One thing about the tape is that if you take a long time cutting your project (weeks) then the tape comes off a bit harder but still no need for mineral spirits.
Bruce ;D
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MW...in the academic world your process is called "Empirical Research" and they get tons of money in grants to accomplish it!
Write a 'grant application', submit to all the lumber, blade and pattern companies and maybe you will get lucky!
~~~GB~~~
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I have just started using the shelf paper instead of the painters tape. White shelf paper from Wal-Mart. I apply the shelf paper to the wood, print the patter on el-cheapo paper> spray adhesive the back of that and stick it to the shelf paper. WORKS GREAT I don't use any clear tape. But I do find residue of the shelf paper sticky on the wood. I just sand it off with fine sand paper.
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I'm trying white mailing labels now for a project to see how they work out.you can buy them at staples in packs 25 ETC. there self stick 8.5 x 11 and use them in ink jet printers. don't know how there going to peel off after i gets the project done but i will in a couple in days time.
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Hi Newfie....Just a note....The sticky back paper comes in Permanent and Temporary. The Permanent WILL NOT peel off. Danny :+}
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Have tried all the methods for securing a pattern onto the wood and I find that the 2 inch painters tape works the best. No clear packing tape either.
Just my feelings tho. Danny :+}
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thanks for the info Danny i got the pattern about half cut now so i guess i'll know in a couple of days if i got Permanent and Temporary. LOL known my luck
Permanent LOL
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just put the tape underneath the sticky back paper. This way it doesn't matter at all if they are permanent or not.
regards
Torsten
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I'm the same as Danny wide painters tape, the only big problem is with some delicate work the tape is doing it's job to well and I end up breaking some pieces.
I know you can get delicate painters tape and that holds well and is very easy to remove.
But I'm a cheap old bastard and can't afford the prices in this country (NZ).
***Merlin***
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After stacking the wood I cover the entire project with the cheapest "masking" tape I can find. I got 10 rolls (all they had out) from Big Lot once for a buck a roll. After the project is covered I spray the back of the pattern (the front don't work so good, don't ask) and immediately attach it to the tape. If I think there is a possibility of burning or to make the blades last longer I put a layer of clear shipping tape (once again cheap) over it. Then drill, cut. When I am finished I get all the sawdust off and out of it. I lay the project pattern down into maybe a 1/4 inch of Mineral Spirits and let it get good and wet. No more than a few minutes. Most of the time pattern, glue, and both layers of tape slide right off.
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Ya-all are making this WAY TOO HARD. Just draw the pattern on the wood (even use tracing paper) and cut the lines. No glue, no more sanding after cutting (except for the fuzzys) and all is well.
Rog
PS...I know, I know, I was just being funny but, never the less, that is what I do alot of the time.
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I hope I don't step on toes but Sloans has a printable adhesive paper for your patterns. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm Hope this helps.. Sheila
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Ya-all are making this WAY TOO HARD. Just draw the pattern on the wood (even use tracing paper) and cut the lines. No glue, no more sanding after cutting (except for the fuzzys) and all is well.
Rog
PS...I know, I know, I was just being funny but, never the less, that is what I do alot of the time.
I have done that in the past. But with my eyes, I need the contrast of a thin black line on white paper. Besides, It takes a few seconds to print a pattern, and forever to trace it!
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Sheila...that's what I use for the majority of my patterns as well...stick it in the printer, print it out and cut around them. But I have all my patterns on the computer as well.
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Dan! They sell these things at Walgreen's called 'reading glasses'!
My eye Dr. just prescribed some for me last week! Seems I was using the wrong strength and now everything is much 'clearer' IF I keep the darn sawdust off!
~~~GB~~~
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I use a repositionable glue stick used for scapbooking. Apply it to the pattern, attach to the wood, cut and pull off. Sometimes the glue will leave a little residue on the wood but you can generally rub it off with your finger.
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Check your local print shop / stationery store, for printable adhesive "paper" I wanted to put some cool decals on my RC Super Cub, and got some clear printable satin finish. Worked a charm and the paint on the plane showed through and made it look as though the images were painted on. But I did notice my printer ink wasn't water proof. Haven't experimented with the Canon ink, the old machine was a HP.
I tried the painters tape, adhesive spray, pattern, packing tape routine with a practice pattern Bill P. sent me. Worked great, no residue either.
Gabby
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Dan! They sell these things at Walgreen's called 'reading glasses'!
My eye Dr. just prescribed some for me last week! Seems I was using the wrong strength and now everything is much 'clearer' IF I keep the darn sawdust off!
~~~GB~~~
My eye Dr said go to the dollar store and pick up 1/2 dozen and leave em all over your shop. Great advice. I always have a pair handy. Only $1.00 a pair and if break em or scratch em I toss em. I found out he has a shop as well. He does ceramics though.
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Hey Dunk...I have them scattered all over the house! At least one pair in every room and several in the shop!
And just to be safe i have one hung around my neck most of the time!
~~~GB~~~
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This tip is for those that may still be looking for an effective way to apply patterns.
I had been using the method Steve describes in his blog, spraying the back of the pattern with adhesive and applying it directly to the wood. After cutting, I usually applied heat to get the pattern off cleanly, but there was always some adhesive residue left behind, which I sanded off. This worked, but I wanted to try something different.
In another thread, I read where someone suggested using shelf paper. Made sense, since shelf paper is designed to be easily removed leaving no residue. I think it was in the same thread that it was asked about whether you could print directly to the shelf paper. I doubted it, but decided to try it out for myself. I picked up a roll of white shelf paper at my local Wally world, cut a few 8.5" X 11" sheets from it and inserted them into the paper tray of my HP inkjet printer. I emphasise the "inkjet" part, because I figured this is where the printing problems would occur. I printed out two patterns. After about 5 minutes, I swiped my finger across a corner of the pattern, completely smearing all the ink, leaving nothing behind resembling the pattern that was there. As I suspected, the ink wasn't even a little bit dried. I waited an hour and tried again, with the exact same results. So, I decided I'd let the patterns sit overnight, and see if they were dry in the morning. Although they were somewhat drier, they still smeared VERY easily, so I came to the conclusion that printing directly onto shelf paper with an inkjet printer was not going to work. At least not with HP ink. I know from experience that EPSON ink dries faster than HP ink, but my EPSON printer kicked the bucket almost a year ago. Maybe someone with an EPSON printer can post their results. I have a laser printer, but it's in storage, and I'm not sure if the shelf paper can handle the heat used to bond the toner to the paper. Will let you know when I test this out. It's an old laser printer, so I don't care if the shelf paper melts inside, at least I'll be able to relay the results.
Anyway, since printing on the shelf paper didn't work out, and I still wanted to use the shelf paper, I decided to print the pattern to regular paper, then use the spray adhesive to attach it to the shelf paper. Then, the shelf paper can be attached to your blank. The first pattern was also covered with clear packing tape, but the second wasn't. I noticed no difference in the cuts between the two, however it was only 3/8" BB ply and didn't exactly put much of a strain on the blades. Still, when I finished cutting both patterns, I was able to simply peel the remainder off, with absolutely no residue left behind! Easy peasey!
I will definitely be applying my patterns with the shelf paper from now on! If I find an effective way to print directly to the shelf paper, I will let you know.
Sorry this is so long winded, but I wanted all interested parties to know how my trial and error attempts led me to doing it the way I now do. Hopefully, someone find this info useful! ;D
I did a quick search and found these http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l)
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I did a quick search and found these http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l)
I just looked at that link and noticed that the package says "Permanent Adhesive". That might not be a good idea if you want to get the pattern off again after cutting! :o
You could of course wrap the wood in painter's tape first and then apply the label.
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Most label stock WILL become 'permanent' if left on a long time...BUT...Permanent Adhesive is very aggressive and it means permanent from the start!
Take it from an old printer who was in the business when pressure sensitive stock first became available about 100 years ago!
NOTE: I also remember, carbon paper in several colors, 'onion skin' and the original Xerox machines!!!
~~~GB~~~
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I did a quick search and found these http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/386934/3M-Color-Printing-Labels-8-12/;jsessionid=0000-HX1cDP7ndjMylAqWyuYErV:13ddpq53l)
My biggest problem with the printable self adhesive sheets is the cost. Those listed in the link at @$14 means 70 cents per page. The premium photo paper I use doesn't cost me that much, and they don't get cut up and thown away. At $4 a roll, the shelf paper was just a much cheaper way to go. If money were no object, I'd definitely go with something like that, but I need to hang on to as many of those dollars as I can. ;D
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I hope I don't step on toes but Sloans has a printable adhesive paper for your patterns. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm Hope this helps.. Sheila
Their prices are good, the stuff I used for my decals was a buck a sheet, but I wasn't buying very many and didn't need a whole pack.
Gabby
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Check this site out.. Many of you have mentioned them... http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm