Author Topic: Sandpaper  (Read 1624 times)

Offline Shufflex

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Sandpaper
« on: October 31, 2017, 01:51:32 pm »
It's me again,

Getting a little embarrassing asking so many questions.

What is the coarseness of sandpaper I should have please? it would be for the finishing stages after cutting from a plan I am looking for.

Thank you all again

Gary 
Asking for help is not a weakness

Offline Bucko

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Re: Sandpaper
« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2017, 10:13:48 am »
Darn good question Gary thats asked by everyone, my go to grit is 120. I have grits -80,120,240,320 and 400 on an overhead rack and I simply pull off a desired piece when needed. My rolls are 1" wide with the 80 grit being wider that I got at a local Flea Market, these pieces are for hand sanding not a power or holding device. My rack is a couple of scrap 2x4's and a 1" piece of copper pipe with Cotter pins at the ends. I hope I helped you some---
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Offline Shufflex

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Re: Sandpaper
« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2017, 11:04:03 am »
Thats a big help Bucko, it gives me a good starting point.

I tip my hat to you Sir many thanks.

Gary
Asking for help is not a weakness

Offline dirtrider73068

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Re: Sandpaper
« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2017, 09:17:04 pm »
I used 220 for my final, used think was 120 to help smooth it out then did 220 but was just better to stay with 220 before and after, after was just to clean up the back and get rid of any residue from taping on the pattern.

Offline Jim Finn

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Re: Sandpaper
« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2017, 07:03:57 am »
It depends on what you are sanding.  Is this fretwork? inlay? compound cutting? Are you sanding bare wood? Plywood?  Are you sanding between coats of finish?  When  I do my inlay I sand bare wood to 100 grit, apply shellac, sand that with 180 grit, apply poly finish and sand between coats, if necessary, with 400 grit.
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Offline Bill Wilson

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Re: Sandpaper
« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2017, 03:26:47 pm »
By & large, I like to do as much of the necessary sanding as possible, before cutting anything out.  For sanding bare hardwood, in preparation for a finish, I usually will start with 100 or 120 grit.  This is for wood that I've planed, to remove the milling marks.  It really depends on what the wood surface looks like when you start.  If it exhibits lots of roughness from milling or other surface defects, you may have to start with a coarser grit and work your way up to the 100/120.  From there I go to a 150 grit, then stop at 180 grit.   The objective is to progress through finer grits to minimize the scratches left by the previous grit, without trying to sand the whole way with the finest grit.

For plywood, I generally skip the 100/120 grit step.  Most plywood has been pre-sanded and if it's veneered plywood, you must be careful not to sand through the veneer.  Veneered plywood will get a light sanding with 180 grit.  Baltic Birch ply will start out with 150 and finish with 180. 

Sanding with anything finer than 180 grit may not really accomplish anything.  As long as the wood surface is smooth and scratch & blemish free, sanding with finer grits isn't really necessary.  Once you apply a film finish, you will have to do some sanding between coats to get the surface smooth anyway.  One exception to this is if I intend to  use an oil finish, such as Danish oil.  Since it doesn't develop much of a film, I may sand the bare wood to 220 or 240 grit before finishing.

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