Author Topic: Cutting Inlays  (Read 3044 times)

Offline Dennis123

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Cutting Inlays
« on: April 03, 2016, 02:40:54 pm »
Hi everyone,

I've been scrolling for a few years (brand new to the blog here however) and have done some things that I'm kind of proud of.  However, I'd like to try doing some inlay work and I'm having some real grief figuring out how to cut tight corners and points with my table set at an angle.

For example, Steve Good has a Beveled Nativity Scene in his pattern book and I can't figure out how to (with my saw table set an 2-2/2 - 3 degrees) turn the corners at the points on the star.

Another example would be a cheese board with an inlaid mouse that I found on the internet.  The end of the mouse's tail and it's feet are driving me crazy.  I can't figure out how to turn those corners

Any help that anyone could give me or, point me to a video, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dennis

Offline Jim Finn

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Re: Cutting Inlays
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2016, 10:20:50 pm »
I do a lot of inlays...  over 2000 to date.  Making sharp turns is not easy.  here is a photo of one and you may be able to see that the sharp turns on the feather tips are slightly rounded.  I use a #5 blade but I suppose a smaller blade may turn sharper.  I put the wood to be inlaid (in this example maple) under the cedar and draw the pattern on the top of the cedar.  This may help in cutting the sharp turns.  You can email me if you like and I will help any way I can.  Jimtfinn@aol.com

P.S.  This eagle is about the hardest to cut pattern that I do.

« Last Edit: April 15, 2016, 07:29:03 am by Jim Finn »
20"Hegner Polymax-3 (2008)
25"Hegner Multimax-3 (1986)

No PHD, just a  DD 214

Offline Dennis123

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Re: Cutting Inlays
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2016, 08:20:35 am »
Yep, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do.  Beautiful work!

Just having someone say that the corners are hard is a big help.  I was really afraid I was going to get a lot of replies saying it wasn't such a big deal.  Thanks Jim.

One clarification though, if you don't mind, by putting your lighter wood underneath the cedar, do you then insert your eagle into the cedar from underneath as opposed to what Steve Good does on his dolphin box inlay video?

Dennis

Offline Rapid Roger

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Re: Cutting Inlays
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2016, 10:41:20 am »
Jim is right, tight corners are NOT easy but, once it is done it looks all right.
The eye WANTS to see a sharp corner, so it does. If the sharp pointed part is some what rounded it will be seen by the person who cut it but, no one else will notice it ;)





I don't do nearly as many inlay projects as Jim has done but, I enjoy it when I do them and they seem to get a lot of attention from  others.
An ounce of responsablity is worth 10 pounds of state and fedral laws.

Offline Jim Finn

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Re: Cutting Inlays
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2016, 06:22:13 pm »
Yep, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do.  Beautiful work!

Just having someone say that the corners are hard is a big help.  I was really afraid I was going to get a lot of replies saying it wasn't such a big deal.  Thanks Jim.

One clarification though, if you don't mind, by putting your lighter wood underneath the cedar, do you then insert your eagle into the cedar from underneath as opposed to what Steve Good does on his dolphin box inlay video?

Dennis
 

 Yes  the white wood that is underneath then fits into the hole cut on top.  Yes it fits in from the bottom.  If you do it the way I do you need to cut in a different direction than if you put the light wood on top.  While sawing, I keep the image to the right of my blade with the left side of my saw tilted down.
20"Hegner Polymax-3 (2008)
25"Hegner Multimax-3 (1986)

No PHD, just a  DD 214

Offline Dennis123

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Re: Cutting Inlays
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2016, 03:48:42 pm »
Thanks to both of  you.  I'll try both ways. 

Just knowing that someone with experience agrees that those tight cuts are harder when the table or blade are tilted helps a lot.

Thanks again,
Dennis

 

SMF

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