Hegner problem, won't start

[Jan-Pieter]

I have a 2004 Multicut 2Se which I've been using for 2 years.

I was sawing with an Olson Pgt #9, I noticed it was getting dull and it broke. I quickly turned the saw off. Replaced the blade and then  it wouldn't start again. In the past I've heard a sound when it didn't turn on immediately and occasionly it started a bit slow before it was at full speed. When googling for what might be wrong I also noticed I don't have a bumper rubber.

Does anyone know what might have broke? I kind of hope it's just the start capacitor which has a MTBF (mean time between failure) of 10-15yrs (see http://www.scrollsaws.com.au/spares-maintenance-scroll-saws-australia) or could I have burnt out my motor?

The power cord seems to work.

[BilltheDiver]

I can't give you a definitive answer, but it is far more likely the capacitor than a burnt out motor.  Do you hear a hum when you turn the power on?  This may indicate a lost starter capacitor.  Do not leave it turned on for any length of time with a bad capacitor as it is hard on the motor.  Is it possible with that model to disconnect the motor from the drive and see if it will start with no load on the motor?  In the old days we would turn power on to a motor and then spin the shaft manually.  If it would start, it was the cap.

It shouldn't cost much to just replace the capacitor to find out if that is the problem.  Eliminate the cheapest part first is the theory.

Good luck!

[Jan-Pieter]

There used to be a hum when it didn't start before, but since it stopped today there haven't been a hum.

Yes, replacing the capacitor won't cost that much and even if it isn't broke it prob could use a replacement.

Thanks for the help

[Danny]

Bout all I can offer is my story....  My Hegner is a 1998 model.  Years ago IT STOPPED.  Like the plug was un-pluged.
Called the Rep. for Hegner.  Took the RUBBER cover off from the ON/OFF switch.  WAS FULL OF FINE SAW DUST.  Packed!
After GENTLY cleaning it.  Yea!  Bingo....  All WORKED PERFECTLY.    Maybe this will be.  ?  Danny  :+}

[Jan-Pieter]

Thanks, Danny. There's no rubber cover but I should be able to remove the switch and have a closer look.

[Jan-Pieter]

A faulty switch did make sense because there was no hum. I couldn't easily get the switch out but I could disconnect the wires attached to it. I shorted the wires and plugged in the power cord. It run right away, phew

I'll get the switch out and see if I can clean it but I probably need a new one with a rubber cover.

Once the switch is fixed I'll keep an eye out for motor start up problems to see if the capacitor does still needs replacing.

Thanks guys

[BilltheDiver]

If the problem was the switch, I wouldn't be too concerned about the capacitor.  It may well last for years without change.  Sounds like Danny ht a home run!

[EIEIO]

That was a good lead from Danny.

A lot of scrollers use a foot switch for motor control, and just tape over the switch to keep the dust out. Might be worth a try.

[pddesertrat]

That was a good lead from Danny.

A lot of scrollers use a foot switch for motor control, and just tape over the switch to keep the dust out. Might be worth a try.

If the switch is actually bad, I go for hard wiring in a foot switch.  Even if it is good, I'd get a foot switch.  I love mine.

[Jan-Pieter]

I've ordered a new switch with cover.

I would have to think about a foot switch. I'm sure I'd like it but do I like it enough to spend ?100 on it 

[EIEIO]

Amazon has deadman switches for about $20. These are 120V switches that power an outlet. You leave the saw switch on, then press the pedal to apply power. Deadman means if your foot leaves the pedal, the motor stops. Lets you keep both hands on the work piece.

If your switch is bad, you can just wire nut the wires coming to the switch and use the pedal to power on and off.

[Jan-Pieter]

I've installed the new switch with cover and the saw works fine again

When I first got the saw I replaced the power cord because it was worn. I screwed the saw ontop a table and thought bending the new cord to the right would be fine. It wasn't and last year I had to bend it forward to make it work. Now I shortened the cable to remove the bend and I was thinking about drilling a big hole in the table to put the power cord through but for now I just rotated the switch and dial cover 90 degrees counter clockwise, it looks silly but no bend in the power cord

Flipping the switch with cover is a bit inconvenient especially since I rotated the cover so I now have more reasons to get a foot switch. I did see one for ?90 with shipping included from germany (I'm in the Netherlands with 230V).

[EIEIO]

Here's one for $23 rated 250V 1/2 HP (~375 watts), listed as 15 amps. I'm not sure about the Hegner, but most scroll saws are <1/4HP and <2 amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Linemaster-Aquiline-Electrical-Plastic-Momentary/dp/B005GRCJTC/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423780741&sr=1-14&keywords=foot+switch+european

[Jan-Pieter]

Thanks EIEIO, this Hegner saw is only 100W but we use a different power outlet. The outlets in Germany are the same as here so I did have a look at Amazon.de and saw cheaper foot switches. Of course then the question arises whether I want a cheap foot switch or a quality one 

I did see a local Hegner dealer is temporarily offering them for ?84 with free shipping.

[Danny]

Jan-Pieter....  Well it makes me Happy to read that your Hegner has been brought back to life.  Yea! 
                      When you start to use a Dead Mans Foot Switch you will be Amazed at the Beauty of it.
                                                      Looking FORWARD to viewing your Scrolling.              Danny  :+}